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Hello Just passing through the forum, I'm taking this opportunity to post some new information. I've still owned my Z since 2018, my brother also owned a Z32 in the meantime. My Z has become my company logo. Lots of finishing work done, Brembo 350z front brakes and Akebono 370z rear brakes, Boost Controller Blitz. Next installation of a second MAF and more finishing to be done.

A belated happy birthday Steve - hope you had a good one mate!

PARTS ACQUIRED DURING THE MONTH OF JANUARY 2025 The last item to talk about for this months blog updates, is to do with a new part acquisition I was able to acquire all the way from Japan and though this new part is not a super rare optional part that I typically am on the look out for, it was a part that I know is now discontinued brand new from Nissan Japan and finding a used unit out in the wild online was going to be the next best way for me to acquire it for my 300ZX build project. Used Intercooler Duct Outer Bracket (Nissan P/N: 14486-VP100) https://i.postimg.cc/h4w57Jj5/Intercooler-Mounting-Bracket-Fabrication-2024.png https://i.postimg.cc/KvMs7Z3n/New-custom-made-bracket-1.jpg I then coated the custom made steel bracket in a high gloss chassis paint to protect it from rusting in the future. https://i.postimg.cc/CLq6CFns/Mounting-Bracket-After-Paint-2.jpg I installed the bracket onto the car during the final assembly process in October and the custom made bracket worked great to allow me to install the 2000spec intercooler ducting's onto the front section of the car. https://i.postimg.cc/jd7k6snh/7-During-Assembly-Process-LH-Intercooler-ducting-Mounts-2-Installed.jpg Fast forward 3 months later and while I was searching yahoo auctions looking for rare and optional parts to buy, I came across this auction for a single 2000spec intercooler ducting along with the 2 side brackets that the ducting uses to attach to the front frame of the car as well. https://i.postimg.cc/vHVS7QxV/Used-intercooler-Ducting-For-Sale-in-Japan.jpg At a price of only 3,000 yen which at the time was roughly $33 AUD, not only would I be getting the OEM bracket I needed but I would also get a spare LH intercooler duct, a spare inner bracket and spare OEM hardware which for me was a no brainer and so I emailed my contact in Japan and organised to purchased the group of items off of Yahoo auctions through him and it has taken about a month or so for the parts to finally arrive to me here in Australia. https://i.postimg.cc/YCNnVb34/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/tg2rRJ89/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/W3z5djPh/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-3.jpg As much as I would have loved to just install the new replacement bracket onto the car, with all of the brake system and transmission issues the car has right now, I have decided to wait until the car is back to being mechanical functional once again and then when I have the time to install a few miscellaneous parts on the car, I'll do the installation process of the replacement bracket then.

REPLACING MY LEAKING POWER STEERING RACK Now its time to talk about that power steering fluid leak which my Dad discovered during the installation process of the pair of twin turbo front brake calipers. From what my Dad told me about the leak, was that it was pretty bad and when he turned the steering wheel full lock to either side of the car depending upon whichever caliper he was trying to install. He found a pool of power steering fluid on the garage floor directly under the right hand side rack end boot and he also stated that the amount of fluid coming out of the boot at the time was so much, that he reckons that if I was to have driven the car with the leak present, I would have very quickly leaked out all of the power steering fluid out of the system within several minutes and if that would have happened it would have cause all kinds of damage to the hydraulic steering pump and steering rack shortly after would and so obliviously we needed to address this power steering fluid leak as soon as possible. I will admit to you all, that this isn't just some random power steering fluid leak that just so happen to occur at this particular point in time. In fact this steering fluid leak has been an ongoing fluid leak on my car since I discovered it back in 2021, where I initially spotted the leak during a chassis inspection of he undercarriage of the car and though the leak really wasn't that bad when I discovered it. As you can see in the below photo, the rack end boot was beginning to become covered in power steering fluid but their were no signs of actually fluid dripping out from the boot at that time. As you would expect the steering fluid leak on the steering rack has been gradually getting worse as the years have past by and that leads us up to present day where the leak has now become so bad that if I didn't address it now, I run the risk of damaging several components in the steering system if the hydraulic part of the system was to run out of fluid completely. https://i.postimg.cc/VLcSQkcL/Old-leaking-Power-Steering-Rack.jpg The good news is that anticipating this was going to eventually happen to my car, I managed to found and purchased a reasonably price used power steering rack off of eBay that looked in decent enough condition and had no signs of leaking rack end boots on it. The replacement rack has been sitting in storage since I received it, waiting for the moment such as right now, when I was going to need to use it to replace my original leaking power steering rack. My Dad knowing that I was still too busy to have enough free time on my hands to get the swap over of the power steering racks done in a quick enough timeframe, he again offered to help me to do the work needed to swap over the 2 steering racks. This meant that I wouldn't get the chance to see the removal and installation process of the steering rack components onto my car, which would have allowed me to further increase my mechanical knowledge and understanding during the process. Still having my Dad be able to go through the whole removal and installation of the 2 power steering rack's for me was going to not just speed up the repair of this power steering fluid leak situation but once it was done, I could then my attention back to focusing on continuing to pull apart more brake components to hopefully find the cause of my spongy brake pedal problem much sooner then if I was to have to try and fix this fluid leak myself. Once I got home from work later that afternoon, I was then able to see my Dad's handy work with the newly installed used replacement steering rack now in place onto the front cross member of the car and finally there are no leaks to be seen coming from anywhere on the steering rack. https://i.postimg.cc/MTTSB6f1/New-Power-Steering-Rack-Installed-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wBFz3yM7/New-Power-Steering-Rack-Installed-2.jpg To finish off this blog, the plans I have for my original leaking power steering rack will be a full teardown of the rack and then I will learning how to and going through a full rebuild of the unit myself. The rebuilt steering rack will then be put away into storage so that it can be used in the future as a backup replacement for this replacement used steering rack. I predicate that in the future parts like these will become very hard to find and also very expensive to replace and I prefer to have a spare brand new like condition unit sitting in storage now so that I don't have to worry about finding one in the future.

DISMANTLING OF MY ORIGINAL BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER After failing every attempt so far to fix my car's current spongy brake pedal feel problem over the last 2 months or so, It was time for me to take a big step back on further diagnosing the problem and instead I now wanted to alter my focus on trying to increase my mechanical experience, knowledge and understanding of the individual components within the braking system. I hope that this exploratory new process I am about to undertake, will eventually lead me to find the problem part that has been causing me to be unable to bleed all of the air out of my braking system. Targeting a single mechanical part at a time, I want to learn how to disassemble each part down to its most basic components as much as I can, from there figure out and learn how that specific mechanical part functions inside and out. Once I understand how that part works, I can then know if the part is faulty and how that part can be repaired in the future. Once I have solved the spongy brake pedal problem using this new learning experience, I can then expand my learning process to include other systems on the car such as the power steering system and maybe some electrical components as well. Starting off this new process, will me the disassembly of my original factory brake master cylinder which was present on my car when I brought it back in 2006 and then I replaced it with a 2000spec later model variant in 2011. The original BMC was then reinstalled back onto the car during the last time I attempted to do a brake caliper and rotor change on my car back in 2017 where my Dad assumed that the later model BMC was faulty. Dismantling this BMC and inspecting the 2 internal pistons and the bore of the cylinder will help me to verify whether or not this brake master cylinder is either good or bad. https://i.postimg.cc/jjCNP71t/1-Before-Photo-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/YSjgYWPt/1-Before-Photo-3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/MGXRVQL2/1-Before-Photo-4.jpg The first step is to remove the primary and secondary pistons found inside the master cylinder. I mounted my BMC into a vice and then removed the snap ring cover cap found at the end of the bore section on the cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/N0VX40hy/2b-Piston-Removal-Rear-Cover-Plate-Removal-using-Pick.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/nL5mkL8K/2c-Piston-Removal-Rear-Cover-Plate-Removed.jpg Using a pick, I gently pried on the lip of the primary piston located at the end of the bore until it had come out far enough, so that I could pull the piston out by hand the rest of the way. https://i.postimg.cc/cJj3mJqQ/2d-Piston-Removal-Rear-Piston-Removal-Using-Pick.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/nrfQywhs/3b-Front-Piston-After-Removal.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xCzzFSn1/3b-Front-Piston-After-Removal-Close-Up.jpg One down and one to go but the secondary piston was going to require a little bit more effort from me to be able to remove it as it was still located deep down inside the bore of the master cylinder and there was no way I was going to be able to pry it out using the same method I had done for the primary piston. I initially tried using a magnetic pickup tool to try and connect to and pull the piston out from the bore of the cylinder but no matter what I did, the magnetic on the pickup tool just wasn't strong enough to be able to hold onto back end of the piston with enough force to allow me to pull the piston out from inside the master cylinder. So using the information I had researched on several YouTube videos about how to disassemble a brake master cylinder, I switched over to using compressed air to try and push the secondary piston out of the bore of the cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/g05hD09t/2f-Piston-Removal-Front-Piston-Removal-Using-Blow-Gun-From-Compressor.jpg Using a blowgun at the outlet valve port for the rear brakes on the BMC, I shot compressed air into the bore of the master cylinder and in no time at all the secondary piston had popped out from the bore of the cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/3w6GBwMn/2f-Piston-Removal-Front-Piston-Removal-Piston-Popped-Out.jpg All that was left to do was to pull the secondary piston out the rest of the way by hand. https://i.postimg.cc/bJttFj8L/3a-Rear-Piston-After-Removal.jpg With the primary and secondary pistons now free of the master cylinder, I thoroughly inspected the rubber seals on both pistons to look for signs of tears in the rubber O-ring seals and or deformities. But from what I could see, both the primary and secondary pistons and all of the rubber O-ring seals attached to each piston were in perfect condition and there were no signs of any kind of damage to the pistons or seals of any kind. https://i.postimg.cc/yxhSsXDc/3b-Piston-Layout-Inside-The-Cylinder.jpg I was hoping from there to remove the reservoir bottle on the top of the bore of the cylinder but after several pulling and prying attempts to dislodge it off of the 2 rubber grommets holding the reservoir to the cylinder with no signs of movement from the reservoir, I decided to just leave it in place otherwise I could damage the plastic reservoir tank trying more aggressive removal methods. So now that I had reached the level of disassembly I was willing to go to with this brake master cylinder, I wanted to thoroughly clean out the entire unit so that I could inspect the bore of the cylinder for signs of damage. I placed the BMC into a suitable sized container and filled it with a degreasing cleaning solution and place it into my ultrasonic cleaning machine and put it through a 30 minute 60 degree cycle to remove all of the remaining old brake fluid residue found inside the bore and reservoir of the BMC after its disassembly. https://i.postimg.cc/mk3FBNP5/4a-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg After its cleaning cycle in the ultra sonic machine, I then blow dried the BMC thoroughly to leave me with a spotlessly clean almost brand new looking brake master cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/Pf1DWhS8/4b-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XN95f3s2/4d-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg With the BMC clean and dry, I inspected the bore of the cylinder to find it as well in perfect condition with no marks, scuffs or damage present. https://i.postimg.cc/8kLvRDZB/4c-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg The only thing I noticed after the cleaning process was this metal disc cover on the end of the cylinder that faces the front of the car, began to start coming off the adhesive that attached it to the body of the master cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/tCyxDfcv/5a-Front-Disc-Cover-Falling-Off.jpg Once I removed the cover completely, there was a female hex headed bolt behind the cover. https://i.postimg.cc/xTYzg7Zw/5b-Front-Disc-Cover-amp-Adhesive-Removed.jpg And with all of that now done, I can safely assume that this brake master cylinder is in perfect working condition and there is no indications that it is faulty in any way. There is no damage to the internal bore of the cylinder and the components of the primary and secondary pistons are also in good condition. I was definitely very happy with the outcome of my first disassembly process on one of the components of my car's braking system. I set myself a reasonable goal to achieve and using the information I had gathered from my research to effectively perform the task required to disassemble the unit down as much as I was happy with and once disassembled I was able to clean and confirm that my original BMC is not faulty and was not the cause of my car's inability to bleed all of the air out of the braking system. My new plan was definitely working as i intended it to and I couldn't wait to continue to pull apart more parts and learn more about my car then I had ever done be before and thought possible.

MY SECOND ATTEMPT TO FIX MY CAR'S BRAKE BLEEDING PROBLEMS Continuing on from where I left off in last months blog updates, the huge issue I had with my inability to bleed my car's braking system, was still weighing heavily on me over the Christmas break and though I still couldn't understand why I still had a spongy full travel brake pedal feel after going though 9 complete brake bleeding attempts. Still I wasn't ready just yet to give up on trying to fix the problem myself and so during my time off from work over Christmas, I spent a lot of time researching the problem on the internet and I also watched a ton of videos on YouTube, describing how to bleed braking systems on cars as well as how to fix spongy brake pedal symptoms. The hope was that the information in these videos may give me clues to be able to find a solution that would explain exactly why and how I could fix my specific brake bleeding problem and if I could find that one piece of information I was looking for, then I could finally cure my car's current brake problem of a full travel and spongy brake pedal feel. On top of all of the researching I was doing, my Dad was also doing his own research in to the matter and during Christmas Day we both consolidated our research to hopefully find a solution and or develop a plan of attack that we would use to fix the brake bleeding problem with my car moving forward. Some of the ideas that my Dad had found in his research lead him to believe that maybe the ABS pump was faulty in some way and if it was allowing air to enter into the system that could be why the brakes wouldn't bleed properly and because I recently had an accident in the car, its possible that the ABS pump went bad or seized in some way after the accident. The other idea that he had as well, was that maybe the problem was being caused by one or more seized pistons inside one or both of the front brake calipers which again could be why air was remaining trapped in the braking system and replacing both of the front calipers might be a good idea to rule that potential problem out. Luckily for me I already had a spare pair of later model iron twin turbo brake calipers which have been sitting in storage for the last 7 or so years and as I mentioned in last months blog updates, the plan was to rebuild and restore that pair of later model TT brake calipers at some point as part of a massive restoration project I had planned for my braking system. But in order for me to get past this brake bleeding problem I had with my car's brakes, some sacrifices needed to be made in order for me to finally get my car back on the road as soon as possible. Even though I had missed the scheduled inspection date for the transmission repair process to begin at the transmission specialist by now, I was hopeful to try and get my car back on the road and be ready so that I could reschedule the inspection of the transmission at a later date with the specialist and I just needed my car drivable to make that a reality. So after all of the research and discussions with my Dad, the decision was made to carry out the easiest of the 2 suggestion my Dad made which would involve removing and replacing my original pair of NA front brake calipers with my pair of later model twin turbo brake calipers but because my time off of work was about to end after the Christmas break, my Dad wanted to step in a help me out by offering to come down to my place and remove my pair of old NA brake calipers and then install the replacement TT brake calipers for me. This way I could still go to work and do my regular day job while he is able to fast track the swap over of the old and new brake calipers, saving me time to get the job done as soon as possible. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS The process to swap over the 2 front brake calipers on my car is a pretty simple job to do with the first step being the removal of each brake hardline on the brake caliper and then removing the 2 mounting fasteners holding the calipers onto the 2 front hub assemblies. With my Dad's experience on my side, I was very hopeful that this swap over of brake calipers would be the fix I was looking for to cure my car's spongy brake pedal feel. Before we installed each of the later model twin turbo brake calipers onto the 2 front hub assemblies, we bench tested and lubricated to some degree, all 8 of each of the twin turbos brake caliper pistons to make sure none of them were seized inside the body of each caliper and then once all of the bench testing was done, we reseated all of the calipers pistons back into a fully seated internal position. https://i.postimg.cc/L8byrX6M/TT-Front-Brake-Calipers-Set.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/52RPZ09p/Close-Up-Brake-Caliper-Pistons.jpg Even though I was happy to finally be putting these TT brake calipers back onto my car after running with my NA calipers for the last several years. I was still very disappointed with myself that I never got a chance to properly strip down and repaint this set of TT brake calipers, as they look pretty ugly in this deteriorated stated that their in after 14 years of use on the car. But my hopes were riding on the chance that this swap over could be the key to solving my spongy brake pedal feel problem and the only the way to know for sure that it was the brake calipers, was to install the TT calipers onto the car and then bleed the system and cross my fingers that this fixes my brake problem. https://i.postimg.cc/ht5CHj4C/Front-TT-Brake-Caliper-amp-New-Vmax-Slotted-Rotors-Installed-2.jpg When I returned home later that afternoon, my Dad had wasted no time at all removing the old brake calipers and installing both of the TT brake calipers onto the 2 front hub assemblies. While he was at it, he also installed a new set of Vmax slotted front brake rotors as well as install a full set of new replacement Repco branded ceramic front brake pads to complete the installation process of my new front brakes setup. https://i.postimg.cc/BnVhd6ZM/Front-TT-Brake-Caliper-amp-New-Vmax-Slotted-Rotors-Installed-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/ht5CHj4C/Front-TT-Brake-Caliper-amp-New-Vmax-Slotted-Rotors-Installed-2.jpg ONTO MORE BRAKE BLEEDING With both of the replacement TT brake calipers now installed and connected to the rest of the braking system on the car, all that was left to do now was hopefully one more final bleed of my car's the braking system which if my count is right would be the 11th time we have had to bleed this system. This was the moment I had been dreading all day and all I could do was hope that changing the two front brake calipers finally fixes my car's spongy full travel brake pedal feel. My Dad had been waiting patiently for me to return home after work so we could do the bleeding process together using the old school two person bleeding method to bleed the brakes and if all goes well, my car will finally have functional brakes once again and I can then drive it on the road for the first time in 4 months. But after completing the bleed process and starting the car to test the functionality of the brakes, the dreaded spongy brake pedal feel was still frustratingly present and as you can imagine all of the hope that I had built up over the last week for this new plan to succeed were now gone and my angry and frustration with this problem boiled over once again with me shouting and arguing with my Dad about why this is happening to me and my car and why we can't seem to fix the problem. My Dad trying his best to calm me down, still wasn't sure what the problem was either but now believed that the problem was with the ABS pump being faulty in someway and that we should look into bench testing it and or replacing it to eliminate it from the equation. On top of the unsuccessful brake bleeding process, my Dad also informed me of a massive power steering leak that he discovered coming from the rack end boots on my original power steering rack and that even if we had fixed the brakes at that time, the power steering rack would also need to be repaired and or replaced to fix the leak and only then would we be able to drive the car otherwise I could damage something on the power steering system if I didn't act on the leak now. Unfortunately I was just too damn angry at this point to care about this and that and I just couldn't handle thinking about spending more time and energy on this stupid car right now and so the decision was made to halt working on the car and take a step back and rethink our next steps that we needed to take to continue diagnosing this braking and power steering problems. After sitting down with my Dad and going through another long deep discussion with him about my car and all of the problems it has at the moment, it was clear to me from that talk, that my lack of mechanical experience and understanding was a key component as to why my car is currently in this particular state of condition. Most of the work I had been doing on this car was mainly focused on more cosmetic changes and additions more then anything. But very few mechanical repairs and or changes were made to improve the reliability of the mechanical components on my car. Though I had tried over the last 10 years or so to dramatically increase my mechanical service knowledge on this car doing more deep dive service work as the car has been slowly working its way to 300,000km on the odometer. I still hadn't yet started exploring more deep dives in tearing down mechanical components, such as alternators and brake calipers not just restore them but to try and better understand how they work and also how to repair them myself when they eventually wear out over time. From that moment on, I made a promise to myself that I was no longer going to be afraid of pulling something apart that needed to be either repaired and or restored in the future. Instead I wanted to embrace the journey of exploration that I would need to take in order for me to learn and understand what could be wrong with something and also be confident enough with my abilities, that I could fix whatever was broken on my car myself and only then could I overcome all of this stress, anxiety and angry I have had working on my 30+ year old car in the last 10 years or so. So with a new look on things sparking my curiosity, I will be putting aside any further diagnosis on the spongy brake pedal feel problem for now and instead begin the process of pulling apart as many mechanical components in my braking system as I can and hopefully find from that journey of discovery, the location of the problem during my deep dive into my car's braking system. I will start by learning how to pull apart a couple of spare brake component parts like my original brake master cylinder and a pair of used rear brake calipers to help me learn the process of dismantling those parts and to help me understand how they work internally. The knowledge I hope to gain from these small initial steps will give me the confidence I will need to then pull apart more complex components in the future, like an alternator and or starter motor and eventually I hope to learn how to pull apart a steering rack and maybe an automatic transmission and even VG30DE engine one day. With this new knowledge and information under my belt I can confidently say I should be able to repair anything on my car in the future and never have to fear worrying about spending money paying someone else to fix it one day in the future.

With a new start to the year rolling around, the big hope for this months project updates was that I want to finally solve my car's current spongy brake pedal problem and to do this a plan was made to swap out my original pair of NA front brake calipers with a set of later model iron TT brake calipers. Unfortunately for me the brake bleeding process that followed after the swap over of front brake calipers did not produce the desired result I was hoping for which caused me to have to take a step back from further diagnosing and fixing the problem for the time being until I can better understand why this is happening and how to best to repair it moving forward. On top of the ongoing spongy brake pedal problem, a huge power steering rack leak was also discovered during the brake bleeding process and needed to be address as soon as possible. If I didn't address it now, I would run the risk of damaging several mechanical components within the steering system. This resulted in me having to fast track the installation of a spare used replacement power steering rack onto the car and thanks to efforts of my Dad, the leaking power steering fluid situation should now be all resolved. This month also saw me take my first steps in undertaking a new process I want to do to increase my mechanical knowledge and understand with the disassembly of my original brake master cylinder in an attempt to help me learn more about my car's braking system. My hope is that this new process will not just help me to dramatically increase my mechanical skillset and abilities but also allow me to be able to teardown potentially faulty parts in the future and help me to determine if a part is either damaged beyond repair and or repairable and hopefully the more parts I teardown over time, the more confident I will become in being able to solve issues like my spongy brake pedal problem myself in the future. The disassembly process of my original brake master cylinder went extremely well for me and I learnt a lot about how a brake master cylinder works internally and I was able to find out that my original Brake master cylinder was not damaged or faulty in any way and was not the cause of my car's current spongy brake pedal problems. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

Best wishes on your Birthday Steve!

Happy Birthday 🎂

Have a good one mate. 🎂

I personally loved the video and i now follow the channel, so they have a new fan. Any zed content i'll happily post here.

I wondered if this video would appear here! My better half works very closely with the TDC and AutoAlex guys. Edwin is one of the most knowledgeable and passionate 'car guys' you could ever meet and this car tested him as you might be able to tell! 😂 Our silver TT is likely to appear in a video or two with AutoAlex and crew at some point for a spruce up which should be a laugh if nothing else!!

Thank you all for the advice! I've made my order successfully and am now waiting for the parts to arrive. Amazing how they still got these unicorn parts when no one else would!

Hi All As I'm no expert I'd really appreciate any input on how to continue with hopefully finding my fault please. I put ignition on, turned dial on ecu clockwise for 3 secs then back to hopefully get a code to narrow down problem but no light unfortunately. I then disconnected ecu turned ignition on and used test light to check what pins were receiving power. I have added photo showing powered pins highlighted. Strangely pin 49 and 59 had nothing (so I suppose that answers why no light + fault) also pin 32 was markedly dimmer for some reason??? Any info on how to move forward with further testing would be great, (in simplest of terms please as not a wiz at this sort of thing)

Loving some of the Video Content i've seen posted by our members lately on FB so i thought i'd collate a few in this new section. New section has been added to the top club menus under media and links to the following page : https://www.300zx-owners.club/video-gallery/ If you have any ideas of video content that's 300zx related then post the URLs below. After the video links have been posted here i will edit you post and add them to the main video section.

So just watched this posted on FB by Nick. I actually enjoyed it but as a seasoned zed owner i was cringing and shouting instructions at my screen First thing i thought about the engine noise was the lifters, as being sat for so long they likely have seized up with lack of oil. Buy hey, lets strip the whole front, no harm as they age of the car, i would have done all belts, oil and water pumps while i'm at it. Second cringe was the usage of a electric screwdriver on the tensioner, and just as i was shouting dont do that, snap - told you, lol. The mistakes they made actually made is a great video.

I’ve used Amayama for loads of parts, always good service and prices too

Not yet, still waiting for TDI to finish the inspection. While the engine is out I’m taking care of a few small jobs. New dual air filters rather the HKS set up, power steering lines no longer leaking, horn wiring fixed, and a few cosmetic jobs.

Taken from a series 4 breaker, This engine was fully operational and running smooth when removed from the breaker, unfortunately I've no idea what the compression is. Likely has just over 100,000 miles on the clock according to the timing belt cover. Looking for 850 collected from Irvine, or add extra for on a pallet.

Yeh, purchased a few parts from them in the past and not had any issues.

Very trustworthy and well known to be. I’ve been using them for 5 years, lots of other forum members and owners have used them without any mention of problems so I’d go for it.

Hi Raja93, Is Aayama trustworthy? Ive heard of hits and misses on them.

Hi Chand, It appears you’re in luck! I’ve just checked on Amayama Japan website and they can source all 3 of these parts - link: https://www.amayama.com/en

Hi All, I've pretty much exhausted all options of searching the Internet for these parts so I'm hoping that I finally get something from this forum. I'm rebuilding my 1992 300zx convertible and need these parts: Weatherstrip for the Front Rail on the Right-Hand (Passenger) Side: 97170-46P00 Weatherstrip for the Front Rail on the Left-Hand (Driver) Side: 97171-46P00 Weatherstrip for the Center Rail on the Right-Hand (Passenger) Side - 97172-46P00 I know these are hard to come by but I do appreciate if you have knowledge on where I can get them or fabiricate these parts. Thank you very much! CHAND

Thanks guys.