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Ok

Looks like it’s sealant.

Would they be the whole glass

Yes

Ok no problem. I lost reverse in mine for some reason, is going to garage soon ...I'll have to see what the prognosis is 🤔

See if these folks can help you (I've ordered parts from them many times and are good): https://www.jp-carparts.com/nissan/part_detail.php?maker=nissan&type=132&cartype=25&fig=431&part=5622633P00&page=2&img=431A%20002 Alternatively, for s/h try: https://www.banzaibreakers.com/

Lol, no not ALL the way home. Some side roads, car parks are loud. I'll find a way to quiet it down and protect the inner arch. Maybe some felt type material like on my other car.

Hi and welcome to the club. We are a Z32 owners club, so have limited knowledge on the Z31. There is the Zed Club, but that too is UK-based, but there might be the odd member down under who can help.

A belated happy birthday mate - hope you had a good one!

A belated happy birthday Marco - hope you had a good one mate!

LOL - always good to bring up an old thread...! But no, not to my knowledge.... And just out of interest, was your journey home entirely on unmade gravel tracks? I have never experienced the problem of such noise on normal roads, even on the UK's broken surfaces!

Starting the underside refresh and the suspension bolt that holds the lower end of the shock is rusty and needs replacing (after I’ve cut it off! Can’t imagine it’ll undo) Does anyone have any spare or know of where to get from? They seem rather expensive for a bolt (£70 on Amayama and Torqen!) The part number is 56226M. I don’t mind a non Nissan one but need it to be decent quality

Its only been twelve years.. lol. I have recently bought a Z32, and while driving it home, the first thing i noticed was all the noise in the cab from stones etc bouncing off the inner rear wheel arches. Inner wheel arch protection was my line of thought too. Has any of you found a way to remedy this issue? What did you do?

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS After successfully tearing down my original pair of 1989 non-turbo front OEM brake calipers, I decided the best way to build on that experience was to dismantle a spare set of OEM aluminum rear brake calipers from a 300ZX. In theory, the rear calipers should require much the same disassembly process as the fronts, with the main difference being that each rear caliper only contains two hydraulic pistons rather than four. One other notable difference, however, is the overall condition of these rear calipers. Unlike the fronts, these are in fairly poor shape, with heavy grime buildup and a significant amount of rusted hardware that I expected would make the teardown more challenging. Despite this, I was confident I could fully disassemble them and further expand my mechanical knowledge in the process. https://i.postimg.cc/kMSKz9Hm/1_Before_Dismantling_(Rear_Brake_Calipers)_Rear.jpg Step 1: Tearing Down the Left-Hand Rear Brake Caliper As with the front calipers, the first step was to remove the hydraulic pistons. I planned to use compressed air to force the pistons out of their bores, just as I had done previously. This is where I hit my first major roadblock. Both rear OEM brake hose fittings were completely seized in the back of the caliper. Despite using a correctly sized 10 mm flare nut wrench, neither fitting would budge. Things quickly got worse when the hex portion of the fitting began to deform under the wrench due to rust and soft metal. Not wanting to risk further damage, I stopped and reconsidered my approach. I remembered seeing my Dad successfully free stubborn bolts using penetrating lubricant, so I applied a generous amount of WD-40 to the fittings and surrounding threads and allowed it time to soak in. https://i.postimg.cc/L4PLwRbG/2_First_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Caliper_End_(Close_Up).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/vHdfdkRm/2_Second_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_End_(Close_Up).jpg Thankfully, this approach worked. Both brake hose fittings eventually broke free, allowing me to continue with the teardown. https://i.postimg.cc/BZFHkszj/2_Removed_Brake_Hardline_Hose.jpg Unfortunately, the fittings sustained noticeable damage during removal. While I originally hoped to refurbish the hardlines as part of a future restoration, replacing them outright will be far easier and safer. https://i.postimg.cc/8kvM9DYP/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Wide).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/SQ9C3qvw/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Close_Up).jpg With the hoses removed, I used compressed air to push both pistons outward as far as possible while the used brake pads were still installed. At this point, another issue surfaced: two brake pad slide pins were seized in the caliper body. After applying WD-40, I was able to remove one pin, but the second pin refused to move. Even using a hammer to drive it out proved ineffective. After exhausting all options I could think of, I decided to leave it for now and seek advice from my Dad before risking damage to the aluminum caliper body. Fortunately, the stuck slide pin did not prevent me from continuing. I removed the four caliper mounting bolts and separated the two caliper halves without issue. https://i.postimg.cc/DyKLKHVB/3_Dismantling_Process_Separating_LH_Rear_Brake_Calipers_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Yqfg2Rkz/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8PBWk4Dy/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_2.jpg I then removed the old brake pads. https://i.postimg.cc/kXdKdzrK/3_Dismantling_Process_Finally_Separated_LH_Brake_Caliper.jpg The final step for this caliper was removing the pistons completely, along with the dust boots and internal rubber O-ring seals seated inside each piston bore. Once everything was laid out on the bench, the amount of grime and contamination was obvious. A thorough cleaning would be required before any refurbishment could begin. https://i.postimg.cc/Qd87F7dD/4_Dismantling_Process_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L6Bf4D2S/4_Close_Up_of_LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/qMXnBw0W/4_Close_Up_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg Step 2: Tearing Down the Right-Hand Rear Brake Caliper After dealing with the challenges on the left-hand caliper, I was better prepared for the right-hand side. As expected, both brake pad slide pins on this caliper were seized solid. While frustrating, I was still able to work around the issue and complete the teardown. https://i.postimg.cc/CxcqkKRd/5_Dismantling_Process_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg Just like the left-hand caliper, all components were heavily soiled and coated in grime. https://i.postimg.cc/x1fmXmTB/4_Close_Up_of_RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/fRzdVdRX/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Rear_Half_Section.jpg The front half of the caliper clearly shows the two rusted slide pins still stuck in place. https://i.postimg.cc/Mp6BnBpn/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg Step 3: Cleaning Process for Both Rear Brake Calipers With both calipers fully disassembled, it was time to assess what could be reused or refurbished. All metal components were placed into my ultrasonic cleaner and soaked in an all-purpose cleaning solution for 20 minutes at 60 °C. The results were far better than expected. Most of the built-up grime and residue was completely removed. After thoroughly blow-drying each component to eliminate moisture, I sorted the parts into groups and stored them safely for the next phase. https://i.postimg.cc/XYsCdvrB/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8zZ6MC7r/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_2.jpg The real work begins next. Both caliper bodies will be stripped back to bare aluminum before being repainted in a durable, high-gloss finish. More updates to follow.

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY ORIGINAL NON-TURBO FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS With the success and experience gained from disassembling my first braking component in last month’s blog update, I wanted to expand on that learning process and take a deeper look into how my front brake calipers work — inside and out. This time, I’ll be disassembling my original set of non-turbo aluminum front brake calipers that I removed from my car last month. My dad and I suspected that one or more of these NA (naturally aspirated) calipers might be faulty, potentially causing my car’s persistent spongy brake pedal feel. By completely tearing down both front NA calipers, I’ll be able to thoroughly inspect the internal components for any damage or wear. If a fault is found, that could explain the soft pedal issue. If not, I can eliminate the calipers from the list of possible causes. https://i.postimg.cc/W1tshKTV/1-Front-NA-Brake-Calipers-Before-Dismantling-Process-2.jpg Before diving in, I spent a lot of time researching how brake calipers work and the general disassembly process. Most guides and videos show that the typical teardown involves: 1. Removing all of the hydraulic pistons from the caliper body. 2. Unbolting the fasteners that hold the two caliper halves together. 3. Cleaning all components thoroughly before rebuilding or refinishing. Important Note – Factory Service Manual (FSM) Warning The Nissan 300ZX factory service manual (FSM) clearly states that the front and rear brake calipers “should not be separated.” This is likely due to safety reasons: the manual does not list a torque specification for the four bolts that hold the caliper halves together. At the factory, these bolts are likely torqued using a specialized machine to a specific range to ensure they don’t loosen over time — a critical safety measure that prevents caliper separation while driving. However, for the purposes of learning and future restoration projects, I’ll be disassembling them anyway. Breaking them down completely will allow for a thorough cleaning, inspection, and high-quality repainting — ensuring not only a great finish but also long-term corrosion protection. https://i.postimg.cc/SsLhBb7v/Brake-Caliper-Disassembly-Warning-FSM.png To safely reassemble the calipers later, I’ve researched several torque value references for the caliper body bolts. I’ll use those settings along with medium-strength (blue) Loctite on the bolt threads to prevent them from loosening over time. Step 1: Extracting All Brake Pistons The first step is removing the hydraulic pistons from each caliper. The 300ZX front calipers use a quad-piston design — two pistons in the outer half and two in the inner half. After removing the pistons, I’ll separate the caliper halves, remove the internal seals and bleeder valves, and complete the teardown. Most YouTube guides recommend using compressed air to push the pistons out. I’ll use the same method, with a soft obstruction (in my case, stacked used brake pads) placed between the pistons to prevent them from shooting out violently and to control the process safely. I mounted the caliper in a vice on its side for easier access, then inserted several used brake pads where they normally sit. These pads serve as a cushion and limit how far the pistons can extend. For the air supply, I used an old brake hardline which has a partially cut rubber OEM brake hose still crimped to it as the perfect adaptor tool for attaching my blow gun nozzle and feeding compressed air into the caliper’s brake hose port. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/nh5p7khs/2-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-1.jpg As I slowly applied air pressure, the first piston began to move outward until it contacted the brake pad stack. The remaining pistons followed, each pushing out evenly. [IMG]https://i.postimg.cc/fRFDXKR0/2-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-2.jpg [img]https://i.postimg.cc/0yr9b3Pb/2-Dismantling-Process-LH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-1.jpg [img]https://i.postimg.cc/Z5g43c5w/3-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-3.jpg After removing one brake pad from the stack to increase the gap, I repeated the process several times. Gradually, the pistons extended further each time until they could be almost ready to come out safely pulled out by hand. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/wjPgJVjc/3-Dismantling-Process-Both-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-Progress.jpg At this point, I decided to just go ahead and split the caliper halves for easier access. I removed all the mounting bolts and bleeder valves, then separated the halves. https://i.postimg.cc/YSWkxWvT/4-Front-Brake-Calipers-Separated-Hardware.jpg Followed by the removal of all of the caliper brake pistons and rubber boot seals. https://i.postimg.cc/ZqdZLdWD/4-Front-Brake-Calipers-All-Pistons-Removed.jpg Step 2: Removing All Caliper O-Ring Seals With the pistons removed, I inspected the bores for any visible damage. They were dirty with residual brake fluid but showed no scoring or deep marks, which is a great sign that the calipers are likely in good condition. https://i.postimg.cc/d0yv9yh5/4-Dismantling-Process-Internal-Oring-Seal-Close-Up.jpg Next, I carefully removed all O-ring seals from the piston bores, along with the two smaller fluid channel O-rings that seal the passage between the caliper halves. https://i.postimg.cc/tgxyzxs2/4-Dismantling-Process-side-Oring-Seal-Close-Up.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/B650rfcj/5-Front-Brake-Calipers-All-Orings-Seals-Removed.jpg Upon a closer look, both calipers’ internal surfaces appeared smooth and undamaged — a reassuring result that means that these calipers were not the issue with my current brake bleeding problem. https://i.postimg.cc/MGQxYQcW/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/MTJw3pRq/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/QtZDYd5B/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xCVQp1HM/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-4.jpg Step 3: Cleaning and Final Inspection Before I could begin the final inspection of both calipers to properly confirm for signs of fault or wear, I first needed to give them a deep clean — inside and out. To do this, I placed all the caliper components into my ultrasonic cleaning machine to remove years of built-up brake dust, grime, and corrosion from every surface. https://i.postimg.cc/4dvgDRbp/7-Cleaning-Parts-In-Ultrasonic-Cleaner.jpg Once the cleaning cycle finished, I removed all the components and carefully dried each one by hand using my blow-drying tool. This ensured that all traces of water and cleaning solution were completely removed, leaving each caliper looking squeaky clean both internally and externally. https://i.postimg.cc/Fz94mCDB/7-Dismantling-Completed-Full-Set-of-Caliper-Components.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/FRb4MXgD/7-Dismantling-Completed-Full-Set-of-Caliper-Components-Close-Up-2.jpg With both calipers now fully cleaned, I moved on to the final inspection stage. My goal here was to check each caliper bore and piston seating area for any signs of scoring, pitting, or other surface damage that could affect brake performance. As I expected, all the bores looked perfectly smooth with no visible marks, scratches, or imperfections. This confirmed that both calipers are still in great condition and not the cause of the spongy brake pedal issue I’ve been chasing. While it’s a relief to rule out the front calipers as the problem, it also means that the root cause of my braking issue lies elsewhere in the system. That’ll be my next area of investigation — but for now, I’m really happy with how these calipers turned out after the teardown and cleaning process.

For this month’s blog update, I continued my pursuit of expanding both my mechanical knowledge and hands-on experience. This involved tearing down several additional braking components, including the disassembly of my original pair of OEM non-turbo front brake calipers, as well as a pair of OEM rear brake calipers, completing my planned efforts for the month. Throughout the dismantling process, I successfully broke each brake caliper down into its most basic components. While everything did not go entirely according to plan, I encountered a few challenges that required problem-solving and adaptability. Overcoming these obstacles provided valuable learning opportunities, and the experience I gained through this work will undoubtedly help me repair and maintain my Z more confidently in the future. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

I’m desperate to find an electrical mechanic in Melbourne for issue with cruise control in my 1988 300zx 31 Californian. Can anybody please help me in my search.

Evening Punters, As predicted by my Wife, my simple DIY attempts have resulted in a roadblock. In summary: With my rear courtesy light failing to work, I removed the cover and the bulb fell out. "Result! This will be an easy fix..." (italics for the internal monologue) With much confidence, I reinsterted the light (which looked LED-ish and NOT halogen) and SPARK! CRACKLE! (dropped the bulb rather hastily). As you can probably guess, since this attempt resulted is my understanding that these bulbs have polarity, my front courtesy lights and stereo now refuse to work (although the power aerial still does). Given my limited electrical understanding, what is the most likely outcome here: Blown fuse in fusebox (it is not the stereo, as I have checked the 10A fuse in there and it looks fine e.g. no breaks) Blown bulbs in ALL couretsy lights. Give up, take car to auto electrician and heed Wife's advice at ALL times. Also, am I to expect central locking as standard on a 95 TT? If so, that is another electrical gremlin to chase...

Yes, but was hoping to shift the full thing

Is the transmission available

Bump , open to offers.

Happy Birthday 🎂

Have a good one mate. 🎂

Happy Birthday 🎂

Best wishes on your Birthday Marco!