Dick300

I'll be there - forecast is for sun! Colin

Just a thought, I was told the Jap and UK autos have different ECUs - is your new box the sam eas the old box?

Yes Andy - 1990 UK spec. Colin

Had a look with the hose off - if you screw the adjuster in fully (with the locknut still in place) the butterfly opens to just short of horizontal. By removing the locknut you could get it to fully horizontal but as the Throttle bodies are actually angled slightly downwards I left the locknut on. Unfortunately, as I haven't got a gearbox at the moment I can't test what benefit there is! Colin

Early UK cars have an adjustment screw in the centre so it should be possible to adjust. I haven't had a chance to check yet but I wouldn't want to adjust it without taking the hose off. I suspect that the stops on the throttle bodies might be past full open. (ie the real full open must be when the butterfly is horizontal and the stops may pe past that point) Colin

Happened twice - last time totally fried the engine. Both times temp gauge was reading normal (sensor sitting in air rather than water?). On mine the cause was a leaking heater matrix combined with a disconected overflow hose - but I suppose any leak would cause it. I would seriously recomend having the cooling system checked before using the car again. Colin

Willie, If they're really bad you can have my old ones - of course you'd have to take the bumper off to change them but it's really not that hard. Colin

I had an old box lying so haven't taken the broken box out yet. SE quoted me £1400 for the upgrade and it cost me £49 to ship it using Target. When it's returned I'll have it fitted at a local garage. Colin

Same thing happened to me last week (see http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18478) Spoke to several people about whether it was worth trying to repair just the pump but they all said the risk was that there might be debris which would cause problems later so it was better to go for a full rebiuild. I decided to go for the SE fast road rebuild in the end as it was only £150 more than what I was being quoted for a standard rebuild and if you've got to do the work then it's as well to upgrade. Old box sent off last night so no car for a few weeks yet! Colin

Willie, Went after 5th run so probably quite hot but my hardest launch was the 3rd run so I would have expected it to go then. There's been a slight ticking/clicking sound for some time which it only seemed to do when in gear - don't know if that was an early warning sign or not. Colin

Up at Crail drag racing at the weekend and I lost drive in ALL gears at the same time and there’s a lovely whirring noise coming from the box. The fluid is perfect, clear pink, and there was no slippage beforehand so I’m wondering if it could be the torque convertor and/or oil pump, both of which I’ve still got on my old box (where the cluches failed). Has anyone ever had anything similar and changed the pump/torque convertor? If I have to go for a new box, who other than SE, do an uprated one and what’s the going rate? Colin

I'm running the colder HKS plug (can't remember the number) mainly as a safeguard against detonation. The only problem I've found is a slight miss on really cold days until the engine gets up to temp. I haven't noticed any performance gain, but then that wasn't why I fitted them anyway. Colin

I used the location on the back of the head when mine failed but I was never 100% happy with it 'coz it isn't central. I didn't think much of the plenum chamber location because despite what it says in some articles the bolt used doesn't actually go into the block. (it bolts to the inlet manifold which in turn bolts to the heads) I eventually found a 10mm bolt right at the back of the block in the centre of the V which is only about 6 inches back from the original location and on the same plane. It was fairly easy to get at after disconnecting a few pipes but then I don't have any EGR bits at the back of the engine. (they were removed when my engine was replaced 'coz they were completely blocked anyway. If you can reach this bolt then it's just a case of using a slightly longer bolt and large washer as the 10mm bolt will be thinner that the standard bolt. Colin

I had the same problem Wads had - the drone really did your head in! I got round it by using exaust rap round the downpipes. I'ts amazing the difference it made (it's also supposed to increase power but I can't say I noticed)

I tried them for the Dipped beam a few years ago and couldn't see a bloody thing in the rain, although they claimed to improve rain vision. I reckon they conflicted with the projector lense. They may be alright for main beam (I never tried). PS - Took them back to Halfords and no problem with refunded.

Just got the November edition - 8 pages on the 300ZX plus an article on Malcolm Yule's 240Z Colin

I got one from http://www.thinkauto.com/ for around £90. Make sure you tell them you need the 13 row cooler which will allow you to do away with the "in radiator" coolers. Colin