Dick300

Ant-Dat Whereabouts in Moffat and when? Colin

Should be able to make it. Colin

Wish you were here....

I give in - you're obviously way more witty than me. I'm off to John O' Groats now - at least they're civil there.

Need I say more - there's absolutely no need for this sort of thing. Yes I do know why it's better to remove the engine - and several members have already covered this in detail - but that wasn't the question, hence my post. Colin

Hold on - the implication here is that because I chose to swap the turbo's on the car I am in some way unworthy of z ownership!!!! (I've no idea what a chav is but it sounds derogatory) When someone asks a legitimate question it is only proper that those of us with relevant experience post replies - it's just this sort of comment which stops people getting involved and I will certainly think twice before offering my advice in future. By the way I have owned my z since 97 (when they cost considerably more than they do now) and have been a forum member for over 2 years.

I've done both sides twice now - the trick to the o/s is to remove the servo* and loosen the brake lines where they go through the wing that gives enough room to manover. From memory, and in no particular order, don't do what the manual says and remove the downpipes (even if you get them off the odds are you'll break at least one stud) - it's much easier to unbolt from where the precats meet the turbo. When re-fitting the o/s, fit the inlet pipe to the turbo before replacing as you'll never reach the bolts once it's fitted.) - that's why you need the extra space. As someone's already said you'll need to butcher a spanner to reach one of the n/s nuts. For the others I found 2 long thin 1/4 inch extensions, the kind that allow a degree of movement, were needed to reach them from underneath (+ bluetack and a ring spaner to get them back on!). The only other thing I can remember is that you'll never get the heat shields off without shearing the bolts and they're almost impossible to refit anyway so just scrap them! *take the driver's seat out for this - it's only 4 bolts and saves hangin' upside down to reach the nuts for the servo. Have fun and remember to have lot's of elastoplast handy!

Hi Ed, Guess that means you've got the nitros plumbed in now! What was the track like? It's usually damp with no grip at this time of year which makes your time even more impressive. The best I ever managed was a 13.2 with the track bone dry. Colin

Tabby I've got a blocked Heater matrix to replace this weekend but I'll pop round once it's done. Ossian, "pass by your place most monday and tuesday nights" - better than going through it with all the bloody speed bumps there're putting in now! Colin Colin

Wouldn't be white by any chance - leaving Camelon on Saturday around 10:30? Colin

I was quoted $166.13 shipped by Courtesy - I quoted my TwinTurbo.net id number as I've been told it gets you discount. Even with tax it's a lot less than getting one here. Do a search on Heater Matrix and you'll find posts confirming that th eUS one will fit if you use the UK pipes.

The Pirnhall Inn is 2mins away but I've no idea what it's like. It used to be good a long time ago but that was before it became a Brewers Fare. PIRNHALL INN - PUB/RESTAURANT - Junction 9 M9 Motorway

'coz New Years on a weekend this year I reckon most of us will be off on the 3rd & 4th so either one's ok for me. Stirling's no prob - it's only 10mins up the road - there are Services just south where the M9 and M80 meet so handy for most directions. Colin

My bonnet occasionally creaks (in addition to the usual squeak from the catch!) and I found it to be wear in the hinges. Periodically covering them with vasoline does the trick.

I'm in Bonnybridge - centre of the known universe! I used to go up to Crail fairly regularilly but I'm on my 3rd gearbox now so I've called it a day (or to be more accurate, my wife has) Don't mind travelling for a meet but would prefer weekend's 'coz Im old and need ma bed through the week! Colin

Here's one I prepared earlier.....

Have a look at page 18 in the General info section of the online manual. If the last character of the vin number is a Q then it's European. (and I suppose if the steering wheel's on the right that means UK!) Colin

I re-located mine when I was replacing a knackered series 1 with a series 2 so there really wasn't any effort involved. Anyway, I just thought that the original mounting point had to be the least friendly place they could have picked! Colin

I bent the mounting bracket to mirror the curve of the inner wing and was going to drill another 3 holes once it was in place but as there's no movement whatsoever I thought it best to avoid drilling the wing. Try it yourself, and if you're not happy you can get the drill out! The bolt's hidden in the attached picture but it's the bottom left corner of the PTU.

I had exactly the same problem last year - it wasn't the fuse but the relay. Try tapping the top of the main beam relay with the head of a screw driver, or if possible swapping it with one of the others. On a UK spec there was another of the same type (can't remember might have been radiator fan?) that allowed me to test.

Sorry I don't have a pic to hand, but the series 2 PTU fits nicely between the fusebox and the strut tower. There's a handy 10mm bolt there as well.

The Z Club will have a display at the Aero & Auto Extravaganza, Museum of Flight, Nr Haddington on 2nd May. There will be at least 1 300 (mine!) and a selection of Z's from 240 to 350. If it's anything like last year it will be well worth the £6 as in addition to the cars there's the air museum. For details of on how to get there see http://www.nms.ac.uk/flight/

Does it lock up if you back off? If it does then it's probably electrical, TPS etc. but if it doesn't the it would suggest the box. There are diagnoics you can run (even without consult) but I didn't find them that helpful. They should be in the online manual or I can give you a copy of the CD if you're still going to the show on Sunday. NB - I've still got my old knackered box if you need something to send away. Colin

I'ts a long time since I removed mine but I definately didn't need to take the bumper off. If you haven't already done it, remove the pump as well and the engine will rev easier and you'll see a small improvement in mpg. Also, it weighs a ton!

Kincardine - Kinross - Cupar - Pitscottie. Much quicker - especially in summer when the coast road's full of Sunday drivers.