mr boost

2 blades on the compressor wheel is normal on standard tubs

220hp

nah if u know what u are doing it cant be done without taking the engine out...but u can do much except a crude check for staft play. in brief.... unbolt exhaust from down pipes remove downpipe from back of turbo (PitA on driver side) now you can get at the shaft on the back of the turbo and feel for any play u can do it from the front too to check the intake side but thats even more of a nightmare, and plus, if theres play at the turbine end, chances are theres play at the compressor end too.

175 and still going, truck was in my driving line so had to back off, didnt do another that fast, once was enough :)

make one out of a paper clip? ;)

you search for HOURS and take alll the loom apart! its a PITA job! thankfully, ive only had this happen once in 17 in-out jobs, so maybe im lucky (touches wood quick)!

no he doesnt want to buy it! I DO! :) Im in germany on biz at the moment till tommorow, then im in london till sometime in the weekend, when i arrive home I will be wanting an engine ASAP! if you like sms your number to 07984968372 and I'll call you when im back in blighty, dont think i'll have tinternet available in london. I want to get the damn thing running before the back end of summer is gone now its all built back up from a bare shell and a decent motor is the missing piece :)

pah horrid! seems that 32 was a lucky number for nissan, the z32 of course, and the best liner was the R32...that was chunky and raw, the ones after just dont cut it for me

it can be done, ive done it myself twice, passenger side isnt too bad, about an hour or so to get off. The driver side, thats a different kettle of fish, steering rack and collumn in the way, the oil filter and housing gets in the way took me 3-4 hours to get that puppy off, tho about an hour of that was swearing at it lol.

i'll post here too so you see it ;) Will this engine come with any kinda of warranty? What will be missing from it, ie, turbos, plenum, cas etc? Im after a new motor, and a recently built one sounds ideal, so please DO NOT SELL!

im not quite 30 but i remember a lot of that and doing a lot of that stuff :) oh how the world has changed in a couple of decades :( what on earth is it going to be like in another 30 i darent bear thinking about!

id defo say you got a bearing on the way out. get it done asap, it can still cause damage even if u cant hear it knocking or at low revs!

ahh, problem solved then hehe

madness!! any idea what work with the crank and rod bearing seats were done on that? One thing ive always thought regarding the VG is that the journals the rods sit on are far too slim, RB and 2JZ have much wider bearing seats, and probably the reason we see so many "my bottom end is knocking!" posts on here :( I know nissan were going for a compact engine, but if only there was another inch in length, could have put another 0.125inch on width on the seats, distribute that pressure a bit better....wouldnt see half the rod bearing issues then :(

A pal of mine has a very respectable Turbo MR2, its around 280bhp, 1.2bar of boost, usual zaust and intake mods and its quick. We've played many many times, 1 bar boost, my Z (if u can launch with minimum wheelspin) will keep with his MR2 to about 70, as soon as I get in 3rd cog, its by by Mr2! Rolling starts from 50, it gets wasted!

not to scare the bejesus out of you, but Ive had big end noise a few times, and at free revving its ALWAYS become audioable at ~2500rpm if its on its way out. on time it was really bad and did it at tickover, but that was a VERY ovaled rod lol

i did, just not the stupid pressure sensor assembly :(

sorted, took turbo off today, and after much inspecting of everything, turned out the tiny tiny hole that feeds the line to that turbo in the oil pressure unit was blocked! GODDAMIT!! :( so I drilled it a bit bigger, from 1mm - 2mm, cleaned it all out, so shouldnt clog again unless theres some serious debry floating about in the oil, in which case a turbo going down is probably the least of my worries! thankfully i had a spare driver side turbo knocking about, so used that, now all seems sweety :) cheers for all input tho fellas :)

2 things Ive just thought about... could a blockage in the return to the sump also cause starvation? In the sense that the oil cant get out once its get in (havent checked this) also, could the oil thats in there be a factor? Got Castrol GTX in at the moment. (not magnetec)

well i cleaned the pipe out from the oil pressure sender a few times now, its free and clear, its getting good water flow i swapped the rubber pipes for clear braided ones so I could see water flowing round. :( any ideas how I can check theres actually oil flow?

all 4 turbos cant have faulty actuators surely? nothing was swapped between units :(

Hey guys, in need of a bit of help here as this is taking the piss a bit now. Tonight my passenger side turbo died for the 4th and im fed up. what can cause a turbo on that side to constant keep dieing? Symptoms are, fit a nice healthy turbo, within 50-70 miles, I get a very nasty clunking from that side and I loose all boost and after I can boost past 0psi at all! :( Then check the turbo out, and ive got 2-3mm of play in the shaft! The last one I fitted was 2 days ago, checked the oil lines to it were free and not clogged and alls good. Makes boost fine for the 1st 25-30 miles or so, then all of a sudden it just gives :( Getting tired of fitting a new turbo every couple of days now what on earth could be causing it?

Ive had 4 bottom ends go on me in the past, so im all to versed in the trials this can bring up :) if your lucky it will just be replacement bearings and with some sweat and tears it is possible to change them with engine in the car (nightmare tho) if your not lucky, you will need bearings, crank out and ground/polished, and new rod on the one thats give up. personally, i would advise getting the engine out and checking things properly, check the crank for scoring, check the offending bearings rod and make sure its still round! if the crank is scored or the rod isnt true, new bearings will last you all of a couple of miles heh. if the rod is damaged you'll have to take the heads off, no way to change a rod with the rod and piston still in the block and you cant get the rod and piston out from underneath.

personal experience on this, i live in a fairly decent neighbourhood compared to some of the places around here, and my cars very well known, most of the time if Im out, someone from "scumville" will wave, or recognise it, ive always been nice and polite to anyone whos been near it and showing it any admiration and when im working on it, most of the time theres a member of "scumville" near and wanting to chat blah blah. about 2 months ago some ******* put a brick through the front window of it and did some other bits of damage, i asked the nearest "scum" if they knew or saw anything..within 2 hours of getting up the next day after it happened I knew who did it, had an address and a phone number :)

what the hell?? that first yellow one wouldnt be too bad if it wasnt for those horrific lights! the other 2? well owners just need a damn good slap!