Blazt

Resistor mod is a dodgy mod to do, it will fully advance the timing by another 5 degrees because it will not detect engine knock. Best thing if you want to keep the car is to fix it properly with the new knock sensor and loom.

Just left, working on this. Doors have been known to open at 3AM for the select few.

I still stand by my comments, £400 is cheap for a 100% engine. The item was purchased from ebay, as far as I understand things, is there no comeback that way?

£400 for a complete engine - sorry to say it but you should have seen that one coming a mile off!!! Word of advice never buy an engine from anyone unless you have someone check it over first, that goes for turbo's as well.

It will be up there somewhere mate, have a better look in the daylight!!!

Thought I would come and check you got it today, glad it worked!!! Spoke to Jason and he has made hundreds of these going all over the world and you had the first one that didn't work, aren't u lucky!!! For anyone wishing to contact me then email is best. Cheers Martin.

Zed-X your replacement cable is on its way to you as I type. Hope everything is sweet now.

My email is martin@blazt.biz, drop me an email and I will sort it out for you. Cheers Martin.

Box has given up by the sounds of things.

Don't forget to get all the other bits needed for the cambelt change, like the 2 water pipes with the clips, thermostat and sealer. And you might as well change the 3 other belts as well at the same time.

Hicas is the cause, either the rack or the ball joints.

winding up the 10mm nut will not give a true handbrake feel, and can overstretch the cables.

Firstly unwind the 10mm nut on the lever to slacken the cable then remove rear wheels and pull the little grommet out on the disc, turn the disc round so you can see the adjuster through the hole, click it up/ down( can't remember which) with a little screw driver till the disc locks, then back if off 3 clicks. Do this for both sides, then wind the 10 mm back up so you have a little bit of freeplay in the cable and job done. Oh then put the grommet back in the disc and put the rear wheels back on. :D

Which mines ecu is it based on, as I have a few here.

was it a private plate?

Nothing you said bird, something my bird said!! anyway did you get the code 34 sorted yet?

Sorry, it was not directed at you at all, or anyone really. Forgiven?

well I have to say sorry, I must not have my crystal ball working today to diagnose the problems with your car over the internet without seeing it for myself, and the conversion that has been done. Remind me never to offer infomation to you again.

The inlet cams and the turbo's are different on a manual engine to an auto. Maybe that is why yours doesn't drive the way it should.

That water leak could be the overflow from the expansion bottle, if your rad cap is knackered then it fills this bottle up and overflows and drips onto the N/S intercooler.

Maybe you need a proper cable to check the codes and carry out a full diagnostic check on your vehicle.

It was probarly running a different ecu before, and when the previous owner sold it he replaced it with the original one.

In the oil feed to each head is a check valve, its there to prevent drainback of the lifters, when the oil hasn't been changed in a while it gets stuck open and the oil drains out of the heads over time. You can replace all the lifters but if there is no oil staying in the heads then you will get the tapping sound on startup. There is also a small orifice at the other end of the oil gallery, maybe it was this one you were thinking about.

Thats my point!!!!

Well he was not a member on here so I think it smacks of advertising.Sorry to speak my mind but you would not do it for the other people that died over christmas would you. So why because this guy did it in a zed? Yes RIP but just leave it at that, don't hassle the family!!!!