Joely P

I have one chap, I removed it because I thought the coupling was locking up and spinning too fast from cold, so I bought a used replacement from Jeff, which did exactly the same thing so I guess I'd just forgotten how noisy they are! Yours if you want to swing by and grab it.

I have the same Stillen ARB with the standard middle back, soft front setup and found it made a fairly substantial improvement.

This is my current plan.

I have my rear light panel separated into 4 sections with fog and reverse in there, still with option 1 :)

Use the middle setting on the rear and the softest on the front. I can't remember which is the softest without looking at them. Then you can adjust to suit. Give the bushes a coating of grease before installation.

Hehe, other people cashing in on my detective skills!

I already know my vote, option one with the less visible lens' as I believe the other options start to make the back end a bit too 'busy'. (IMO)

Is my post a ghost?.. :)

I think what Simon was aiming at was particularly the specialist garages like yourself. Over the years, many have come and gone but yours and Jimmer's steady, solid reputation is providing a reliable platform for people that know the importance of seeing a specialist to utilise with confidence. There will always be those that chose to take this sort of car to a 'generic' garage so those issues will remain, but for the moment at least, we have 2 proven traders that cover everything we need to ensure happy motoring and for that reason I tend to agree with Simon that 'for those that know' it's a good era.

Believe it or not, what Mark has is even rarer than the pic you displayed Gary, that is the current and readily available design that Si mention earlier (P-spec). Notice the introduction of the continued swage lines along the bottom, they also redesigned the snout a fair bit and ditched the requirement for an aftermarket nose panel.

8psi would be a 1psi boost reduction of a stock, healthy engine.

I stand corrected! How cheeky of Luke to advertise his product whilst displaying another manufacturers!

Apologies for the low res pictures as they were my signature years ago:

Agreed it needs to be gloss black. I've always been a fan of black roof bars but my opinion very recently is starting to shift. I can't quite put my finger on why exactly, but having it done seems to 'steal' something from the aesthetics of the design...

Uh-oh!

I don't mind the 99 spec on some zeds but I find it hard to see past the fact that they remind me of a Vauxhall Vectra spoiler... (same era too)

Sounds about right, that's around the time when it was initially developed. A few zeds had them fitted around the globe, including, I believe, Chunk's black 300.

Discuss. Include pics for and against :)

You're kind of correct. It is the 1st gen twinz, that was cloned by Luke after a sample was sent. So technically it's a zcentre bumper and as luck would have it, this link kind of justifies that claim based on the fact that the demo car for it is the very same car you have just acquired :) http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=268&category_id=77&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7

Looks good dude, glad the wheel went on ok. I agree the plastic inserts should be a darker colour, not silver.

Ah I see. There's me trying to work out what intricate and complex path they might take and what systems they might link in to, when all along they don't really go any further then I can see!

I can also confirm that point C can also be accessed easily through several fastener holes without drilling. I neglected to do these on the drivers side so will have to go back. As a side note though, when I say 'easily accessed', I mean using a 60mm application wand in strategic places, being able to cover the internal area of the cavity completely, without making extra holes.

Yeah, I tee'd those before your reply as it seemed logical just to keep them the same. But I was curious as to where the pipes actually go to work out whether to delete them. I'm just trying to get my head around the system as the schematic diagram doesn't show where the air inputs from underneath actually come from.

Yep they're the ones I mean. I have tee'd the 6mm and 12mm into the CC. Where does the 6mm one that you removed go to? I ended up making a bracket to fit the gtst CC in the oem location (albeit slightly higher) utilising one of the original mounting bolt locations and it's pretty much clear of the intercooler exit path so I'm going to use that as a permanent location. I have kept all the rigid lines from the engine bay for this reason and connecting up all the top hoses was very quick/simple as they only required slight trimming. I just need small lengths of 8mm and 6mm and it'll be sorted. CheerZ for the heads up and advice on this one Andrew, an inexpensive and simple modification to let the intercoolers work more efficiently :)

Andrew, do you happen to know why the original setup has 2 hoses (joined into 1) going into the lower pipe on the CC? One is a 12mm ID hose and the other 6mm. Did you just tee these back together then onto the R33 CC or can one of them be deleted?