FASTREDZ

Hi Guys anyone have a rear diff oil cooler spare? and if possible the splash guard that goes under the drivers side arch that covers the steel oil cooler pipes that go under the rear bumper :innocent:

Hi matey, just done my brake lines using 3/16 kunifer pipe, I bought a kit from ebay that included a pipe cutter and flaring and bending tool tool similar to this https://goo.gl/images/2iQFI5 on ebay from vintage warehouse 65 be sure to get the heavy duty flaring tool for the kunifer pipe I also covered my pipe in a heat shrink material to give it the factory look, best way I found to bend the pipes was to have the original laid out and then start from one end bending to match the old pipe but also cable tie the pipes together as you go along have a look in my rust arch repair thread mate

Get in there matey :) its a messy job I know, I found I bought a cheap cup wire bush and it ruined my grinder, the twist knot ones are awesome and does clear the underseal away, but it does then end up like silly string everywhere else.

I managed to clean up the passenger side arch today, all rust spots again treated with dinitrol rc 900, then I will do the zinc primer then epoxy mastic

The sills are not very high at all just enough to crawl under and work on Ideally they need to be about 24 inches of the ground The rear half is higher so easier to work on, once the rear is finished i can then lift the sills Higher and concentrate on them

Thanks guys Yeah a very shit job.. ive tried the heat gun way and the thinners too but found the Oscillating multi tool scraper snd wire wheel the best, being on your back under the car is a killer

Had a chance to do a little more, so after battling with the underseal, best way i found was with an oscillating Multi tool scraper and then a wire wheel on a grinder. Once down to the bare steel any rust was dealt with using dinitrol rc900 Then i used bilt hamber electrox zinc primer thinned down using there xylene thinner and applied Using a brush Next i will use bilt hamber epoxy mastic & dynax s50 inside the sills and box sections ect, Lots more to do but just a quick pic to show progress

There is a fella on ebay doing panels, that's where I got mine from, do a search on here that's where I found the info :)

yeah sure im off all week mate ill send you a pm :)

I have also been redoing the brake lines using Kunifer pipe 3/16 with 10mm fittings I removed all the pipework and I have been able to make a copy as I go along, and I have also covered sections in heatshrink for that factory look here you can see the new next to the old

So I have been doing some more work on the zed, I have been attempting to remove all the underseal, wish I hadn't started now what a nightmare to remove, trying with a heat gun and scraper and then a wire wheel and grinder,

My booster was leaking and I found it through I had a rough idle at about 2k rpm I undid the brake vacuum pipe from clutch booster, I sucked on the end to try to get a vacuum, like you did when you were little with a plastic bottle and it would stick to your tongue, this would prove it held its vacum on the clutch booster I found then that it didn't and replaced it

I have the rear hicas rack and im also re doing the under seal, my hicas pipes have corroded so im trying my best to get hold of new ones, I have in the past removed my rear rack for repairs and there is a bleeding procedure iirc, you need to put the hicas in diagnostic mode so you can move the wheels left and right by using the steering wheel, then you bleed the nipples in turn. how did you remove the underseal matey?

Hope someone can help I'm after the two hicas steel pipes that run under the car body from front to back, also if possible the fuel lines that run with them, they all run together and clip together underneath the passenger side car body

I thought it was something like that, the inside of my inner rear arch is coated with it under the paint, ive had to redo half of the inner arch so its bare metal So i thought get it all down to bare metal and use por 15 paint then dinitrol waxoil on top

Its dinitrol that i will also be using some great reviews But should i paint my chassis with something first? Red oxide paint? Etch primer? What top coat? Do i need to remove all the yellow factory underseal? Then ill use the dinitrol under wax coating

Im looking to underseal the zed again and thinking of going back to bare metal But after some sanding back under the wheel arches on the chassis There seems to be a yellow rubberised paint thats on the steel under the paint What is this stuff? Is it painted on seam sealer? Should i be removing this or leave it on? Is it only in the arches or is it all over the underside

Looking at the pipes the brake line 3/16 is too thin for fuel and return looks like 8mm ish but yes kunifer is also an option

The fuel lines on my zed are corroded and need replacing, ive seen some nylon tubing People have used also stainless pipe There is also one other pipe that goes to the carbon canister i believe behind the front bumper Has anyone replaced theirs im taking about the hard pipesthat run from the fuel tank to the Front of the car

Quite right matey, its quite shocking to see some of the quality of bolts out there, stainless steel bolts are generally weaker than there steel counter parts, I have decided not to use stainless as this will cause the steel part of the body or chassis to rust even worse as it will react to the stainless bolts when subjected to winter salt spray and water spray. all the bolts I bought were on ebay and were mostly the flanged type bolt looks quite nice and are zinc plated 8.8 bolts.

Hi there, good point there matey i work in engineering so was aware of the bolt gradings, Yep all new bolts are 8.5 The bolts going though the arms are m12 x 60 1.75 pitch thread, original are a finer pitch 1.25 The nuts holding the subframe i bough are m12 x 1.25 geomet fine thread ones for automotive The m10 holding the subframe to the car body by the sillls are m10 x 1.25 pitch fine thread I had to re use the eccentric bolt on the top arm as new ones cost a fortune

Ok so I have done a little more work on the subframe :) The paint I used on the subframe was POR 15 and this stuff so far looks really good stuff, dries rock hard, after the frame was sand blasted, I used metal prep as per por 15 instructions, then paint on the por 15 gloss black 2 coats, if any of it will get any uv rays you will need to top coat it with something like chassis coat por 15, I used that on my rear arms as I think that might get a little sun the subframe bushes were a challenge for anyone thinking of doing them, there is a shell in there that needs removing but the outer shell needs to stay in. also painted my driveshafts, hubs and rear disk dust guards, I also opted for new zink plated bolts for the subframe seeing as its going well,

Bit of a long shot But does anyone have any rear shock dust boots?

Thanks Andrew great find there, pricey im sure for nissan lol, ive seen some on ebay for another car they look the same shape i think about £8 each Obviously you get what you pay for but maybe worth a try

Hi Jeff, well i took the spring off the shocks and i have forced the shock down as quick and as hard as possible And you can feel the resistance of the oil in the shock, there uk tt shocks with the damping sensor on top Not sure if i have tested them properly though