Paul C

all the best for the future, as well as a happy christmas & new year, id like to wish you happy easter also!! :D good luck also to whoever steps into this role :)

dont forget the recent 2000 posts of "no, i dont know when im gonna get my car back" :D

try Houghtons for insurance in our traders section

you helping too Andy??? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

i do know how to spell laboratory though ;) :p

I think Topless is the best Mod as he bans people for making stupid posts :D

nah mate, im the same as most others on here - an IT bod who thinks he knows everything there is to know about cars :x: :D (only joking, I run a Mercedes Workshop & am a MOT Quality Controller so dont ask me any stupid IT questions [although having said that im also MCSE qualified!! :p] ;))

FFS! will you 2 stop talking b******s about Renaults & get back on topic :nono: , which is talking b******s about oil :D

LOL!! i did start this in the FAQ section, but never got round to finishing it! :o lighting section is in there tho ;) http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=27649

nope, as shunter said - reversing lights & front fogs are not testable items & are therefore not failable items. and yes, 1 month with old ticket presented at time of test :)

havnt a clue how far its away from you, but Thor will prob be able to refill for you

although medical & automotive grades of NO2 are different i believe

ok, 1st: just because you increase the boost doesnt mean the mixture will lean out. as it injects a given amount of fuel for the mass of air flow. (tho it will prob lean out at the end of the scale if the injectors cant keep up!) 2nd, you need a boost leak detector ©Vijay ;) 3rd, with boost jets, the higher (peak) pressure you run, the more drop you may see. these are known as boost spikes. HTH

& seatbelts are bolted to the doors on jap motors in the front, & only have lap belts in the rear

erm, your not talking about "goosehonk" from the recircs are you? boost jets should definatly not whistle, they are just a restriction to the wastegates!

hmmm, lets look. 10W40 vs 10W60 10W indicates the viscosity of the oil when cold so they are the same thickness when cold (0 would be thinner, 15 would be thicker) 40 or 60 indicates viscosity when hot, therefore the 60 grade remains thicker when hot

Mercs dont "authorise" it. we only use Mobil in the UK. it may however meet mercs specifications, as do many other makes. (may be different down under ;) )

huh???????? i dont *need* new turbos, i *want* bigger turbos!!! :tongue: still going strong on origional tubs after 110k miles ;) :dance:

I think he broke it deliberatly cos he likes stripping his engine so much :D

huh?? now im confused - oil does get thinner when hot?!?! :confused:

ok, i'll start. Nope, dont know who's it is & its not mine ;) :D

LOL!! oh yeah, this was the origional question! ;) engine oil, as Baggins said elswhere in this thread, A good quality Semi Synthetic is fine. until recently i used Mobil Super S 10W40. as most of us here change our oils far too frequently (i do mine every 3000 miles) & wont benefit from the cost of a fully synth over semi. I now use a fully synth 5W40 (Mobil Synt S) only cos thats what i stock at work now & its free! :D rear diff & gearbox oil is easy to change, but follow the manual as you need to short a temp sensor out on the diff to prime the pump to the oil cooler. & there is no front diff - these arnt 4WD you know ;)

i mounted 6x9's to the existing metal plates. had to grind them out & weld them up tho! door card needs modifiying also. it will depend on the speakers as well, some 6x9's are very deep & will not fit as the window wont clear them.

anyone had any problems?? iv heard a few stories of this causing probs - anyone istalled it & had any experiences to share?

no, they filmed the exact same scene, or you have deja vou! :D