Paul C

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

looks good in red metal primer - when you gonna paint it a proper colour??? :D

US cars did have front adjustable shocks ;)

sorry, just got put off when i clicked the link: :hurl: :hurl: :hurl:

here or there?? i know he saw it on here LOL! those were the days :D

*****x! just found out my car must be a turbo conversion :smash:

LOL! go log on with your avatar Timmy!!! :rofl:

all it does AFAICS is smooth out the peaks & dips in voltage through the battery. current draw will be the same as its consumers that draw current from the battery, not the other way round. they will still draw the same amount regardless. most EFI systems work (internally) on a 5v system to eliminate any voltage problems anyway! the ignition system is boosted up to 1000's of volts so i cant see any benefit there either! buy one & go to a dyno! :D

sounds like a load of old *****x to me :rolleyes:

yeah, but thats only because there 10 a penny to buy!! :rofl:

never seen them split, they dont however come with the link arms so would think they are available as a seperate part

your contract is with the garage you took your car to & paid. any subcontact work is their responsibility. it sounds like you may have to go to small claims court to get any joy here. maybe get in contact with your local CAB. you have given them more than enough opportunity to rectify any problem. im sure im right in saying you could now have the work done elswhere & claim your expenses back through small claims court. ( i know its a pain to have to pay out more money 1st) for a job like this many people have had very good work done by Ryan at Z-Tech (in our traders section)

better than peashooters eh??? ;) :rofl:

not fussed, but lakeside meets always seem to go down well :)

jack the rear of the car up, shake the wheels side to side. if there is any play then you need to see if its in the HICAS link arms (ball joints at the rack) or at the outer bushes where the arms bolt onto (pressed in the hubs) HTH

removing HICAS usually involves keeping your HICAS link arms (which are probably the bits that are worn), these screw into the eliminator bar. so you would still have to get new arms if these are whats giving you excess play

yup, sounds like AFM. if you cant get 2nd hand, then its prob cheaper to get from the states (esp with the current exchange rate ;) ) http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=22680-Z32ALL

you may be able to get away with some thin spacers

LOL! 0W40 & 5W40 are the same viscosity when hot!! - (40!)

do NOT fibreglass it - as it is a stuctural part of the car it would be an MOT failure (& also be a weakness in an accident). replace or get welded :)

have you tried our own Oilman : http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=72

a T-Pot under the bonnet??? :D

bag of marbles in the bell housing??

as said - check PTU & CAS connectors (or the units themselves) PTU's are prone to failure on our cars. also, have you checked to see if any fault codes are stored in the ECU?

a spanner in the o/s zorst? :D