Paul C

cant see why not mate - as iv said before, the zed is only subject to a non cat test, so unless its running too rich then there should be no probs. if its rough at idle it may have excess HC's, but as long as the CO is within the correct levels then you can retest the HC's at a faster engine speed IIRC. ps - how does it drive???

the coating is there to reduce friction i believe. cant remember what the problem was, Mark (Topless) mentioned it to me the other day :confused:

isnt there a problem with the coated ones?!?

if i had a spare £15-20k to spend id spend on my zed (eh Mac ;)) :dance: :dance: :dance:

you will always have the main underfloor cats (unless someones whipped them aff already :D), but there was also 1 precat fitted to some european models & US cars had 2 precats, these are smaller cats fitted directly after the tubs to help emissions during the warm up phase

i got mine from CZP will be fitting them this weekend, but they are serious works of art! amazing quality with bearings replacing the bushes :)

mines a 93 UK with 1 precat ;)

yea, but usually goes in one ear & out the other :D. how about all the time you spend painting your toes?!?! (not the nails - the whole fooking toe :D)

thats not ok - drive it more!! :smash:

it measures current draw. a bulb that has started to go can have a higher resistance, it will still illuminate but the bulb failure unit sees the incorrect draw on the circuit

If you want a tracking device, then fit a genuine Tracker IMO. they have the best/fastest recovery rate of all :)

wont really make a whole load of difference, unless you spend all your time wheel spinning!! :D

was wazza been up to now??? :confused:

got 300 miles once! summertime cruising with the roofs off down to Goodwood & back :hyper: usually stick £30 in at a time which does me 120-140 miles normally

no mixture screws on our cars bud - all ECU controlled

yes, you should be able to have it verified at a Thatcham approved installer. do you have the manual for the alarm - i could check it for you if you have that. ps - scorpion has now gone bust :(

i must say - the perspex window in the bonnet is a very nice touch :rofl:

& takes about 3 years to complete!! :rofl:

check out this Poopra: green frog type car a lot of work has gone into it obviously, but............. :hurl: :hurl: :hurl:

yeah, but you also get $400 back when you return your old ones: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=AZ320-000S1

BOBBI Bee-Gee's On Board Bling Indicator :D

did make us laugh tho :D

555's should be more than enough

both have advantages, electro mechanical will have a direct drive from one post to the other, usually in the form of a drive in the base, so you get a raised section to drive over (unless you sink it into the ground. electro hydraulic are connected via a hydraulic line (suprisingly enough!) from one side to the other which can be run on a tall frame work over the ramp, or sunk into the ground. the mechanical types i prefer because they are more direct, when you take your finger off the button they stop there & then. hydraulic ones drop down until they engage the locks. this can be annoying when you want to move the ramp exact amounts like when dropping an engine out for example. HTH

or AFM! mercs suffer from this also with bosch mass sensors