mines twinturbo

Yeah I would have thought that too but my boost guage (in-dash) and on my boost controller (not activated) runs to about 13.5psi with the ECU but it feels way way better than when I just had the boost controller winding boost up to 13.5. So.........I figured that the ECU has just got a better fuelling map designed to get the most out of the intake / exhaust / intercooler combination that it was originally mapped for.

Amen that is why they would map for the lowest grade fuel ever likely to be put in the car even in an 'accident' to prevent detonation probs from ever occuring. Japanese engineers call this Poka Yoke (translates as human proofing - I was trained by kawasaki so you learn this kind of shit). Idiot proofing their work so it is impossible to ever have their 'art' and or reputation screwed it up. I have no idea what the power is from their 'mild tune ECU' but would sure like to see some dyno charts

Just to clear it up as well US Ron is not the same as Euro Ron neither is Jap Ron. I know that is as confusing as shit but Ron is like gallon.........perhaps Oilman can help out

No I am not selling anything, I was just pointing out that this stuff is easily available and reachable by us guys in rip-off UK. It simply amazes me that in these global times people will pay say: £1,800+ for a Tein EDFC set-up that is less than half that price in the US.......... Or pass up the chance of 2nd hand performance parts and spend silly money in UK stores / mail-order

I only heard '70hp' from a mines ECU from an anecdotal conversation thats why it would be cool to know what the reality is for each of their stages from mild to wild. There are probably dyno-charts somewhere on a dot JP site. I have no way of guessing what the result was but I could really really feel the difference way more than say the intake, or 10% boost up with the boost controller. Maybe the listers can have a sweepstakes on its actual figures and I'll give a 6 pack to the winner at the next dyno day.........Start the (educated)guesses guys Spec now 92 TT auto JDM Stock Turbos & Injectors Stock Exhaust (not for long) Injen Hard pipe kit Stillen Intercoolers & ducts Blitz induction kit Blitz Boost Controller Mines 'Mild tune' ECU Other stuff: HKS Automatic Line Controller EBC Sport Discs with Red Stuff Ceramic Pads Goodridge hoses HID conversion Clear Repeaters, Front Indicators UK spec rear wheels Conti Sport Contacts (not impressed) Hyperflex master bushing kit

Because being a highly regarded tuning house Mines build safety factors into their work. i.e. Incase of bad fuel / bad human filling the tank in japan. Although Jap fuel is up to 100RON they too like us have crappy supermarket type fuel probs. So............ Mines map with that safety and their reputation in mind. Imagine the press "I fitted a Mines ECU and holed a piston!" It makes the results they get all the more impressive. I only learned this through the guys at japan dyno who warned me away from some smaller name tuners' upgrade chips / ECu's saying that some of the smaller name tuning houses in japan push the safety envelope to get the figures to compete with the masters. They would almost certainly not work with your UK fuel they said. When they supplied the ECU they knew about optimax and said "use that or BP ultimate and it will be fine".

Guys just to clear it up the Mines ECU that I bought for $150 !!! on ebay was sourced by japan dyno they trade through Ebay in the US but do not have a presence in europe yet. However my company has US employees so I buy, ship it to my buddy's houses and they mule it over when they come to work. Anyways japan dyno get to pour over breaking cars in japan, take off all the trick bits and sell them on, so for example right now they have an HKS piggyback fuel computer for sale etc. You can mail them your target spec and they let you know when they have bits for you, its a wait but they come up with the goods. They sell everything from salvaged turbo timers to, get this, a full Mines / JUN 300zx Engine :bow: just depends what they find. They tell you the car it came of the mileage used for (if documented) and everything I have had has been 100% as described. Remember the Japanese are about 1000% more quality obsessed than us and to provide something that was not as described would be dishonourable........... I bought a Mines :bow: 'Mild tune' ECU z32 TTAuto spec. It is therefore mapped for the following:- 97ron fuel, Hi-flow Induction kit, Uprated boost, Aftermarket exhaust, and interestingly Mines 'recommends' upgraded intercoolers with this ECU. (I have stillen intercoolers). I do not know what the power-up is with this ECU need to do a dyno run but I heard +70hp. All I know is torque is massively up. So yes the chip is burnt in to the correct map for this spec and I have a sweet little Mines logo and tamper seal on the ECU unit. Downside is of course that yes If I go above this spec I would have to re-map but hey at $150-200 I could just ask em to look out for the next spec up. Does anyone have any mines dyno prints ?

Anyone about spend big money on turbos for big power upgrade surf to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Twin-HKS-GT2530-turbo-kit-Z32-Fairlady-VG30dett-300zx_W0QQitemZ7996632226QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I got my Mines ECU from these guys and was well impressed with the service. These are japanese guys who sell exactly as descibed.......... Mines Twinturbo Silver 92 JDM auto Blitz Intake & boost controller Injen Hardpipe kit Stillen Intercoolers and ducts Mines ECU HKS ALC autobox EBC discs & redstuff Still Stock exhaust (not for long) HID Lights and Micropilot / laser pilot keep the license

I read in the 300zx book - (enthusiasts guide) that they fitted the diff cooler after autobahn testing during euro model development. Given that I regularly do 300mile journeys at 3AM Motorway speeds I need to investigate further perhaps a UK Diff assembly - Gulp? I am picking up a complete urethane bushing kit on friday so maybe I should make this UK diff cooler upgrade part of that work. Does anyone have a how-to link for the auto-box mod? Thanks

PS check US ebay for Mines ECU's secondhand from japan they are total bargain prices, come up every month and programmed for 97ron fuel...........

Thanks guys.........Anyone want to buy a HKS Fuel cut defencer !

Just thought I would share this with listers and for anyone thinking of buying a Z. I bought my 92 spec JDM Auto as a stock car from Japan having seen so many many dogs via auto trader. I needed a stock car with history to form a solid and known platform for my mid-life crisis project. The car came with full history having been owned by a nissan employee at the Z factory with whom I was in correspondence via e:mail before the purchase. Yes the all important 60k miles service had been done andon arrival in the UK yes the visible belts had been changed along with a radiator swap and the all important nissan sticker and stamp for the 101,234kms service was present along with a stack of documentation. The owner had been extra honest and detailed the whole history of his time with the car. After 10,000 extra happy miles my water pump gave up and only a keen eye on the temp guage prevented major damage. I asked my mechanic (superb independent local little set-up with all staff keen motorsport guys) to investigate & replace as well as do a full service as "it was due an oil change soon and I think the brakes need a look at too." Because his number 2 was following my workshop manual to the letter for a 'major service' he checked the cambelt 'just in case seeing as I had the water pump off' and to his and my horror found it was still the original !!!!! t was just about to lose a tooth and cracked to the point of just about to let go we shared a pint over his good fortuneand vigilence at finding this. After e:mails to taaichi san and a visit to his (japanese Nissan service center) we acertained that the service mechanic in japan had no belt in stock when he did the service and replaced the cover at the end of his first day on the car. Another mechanic working from another shift 'finished' the job replacing all the other belts and water pump hoses and stamped the book. The original guy forgot all about it assuming the spare had arrived and job was done. (they even listed the new belt as parts for the service!). Result Human error..........No intent just honest human error. So the moral of this story if you buy a Z, any Z even with full service history AND receipts get the full 60k service done anyway for total peace of mind. Hell, factor it into your purchase costs and then get a reputable mechanic to do it. If the shop looks hurried or dirty, this is how mistakes happen. Shit I would do it even if I bought my car off me and was shown the old belt !!!! My mechanic put things in a nutshell as we surveyed the 2 skylines & my Z in his workshop: "You are very lucky, these are 100% supercars, they have supercar running costs and even though they look a cheap option believe me they are not, I have lost count the number of these cars I have seen where the servicing is being done 'on-the-cheap' and things are missed that should be done..........Enjoy it but look after it properly!!!!1 Mines twinturbo

Hi, Newbie here and have a stack of questions to try and resolve some conflicting advice I have heard / read..... I bought my JDM TT (Auto) 92 model six months ago and have had lots of fun putting 15,000 miles on her already. Everyone here knows it but having owned far more expensive & exotic cars in the past I would say this is the most accomplished sports car I have owned. I try to pinch myself regularly and remind myself it really is a thirteen year old car. My goal is return the car to a 'better than new standard' and to some degree money is no object but I also love a bargain. My driving needs are such (30,000 plus per year) that I depreciate a car to nothing in two years so compared to ferrari's this jap stuff is as cheap-as-chips and better engineered too! Such high mileage also restricts tuning and chassis mods to sensible stuff only so if forum members can help please do.................. Ok I already did:- Engine De-limiter / Kph to MPH conversion, Blitz induction, blitz boost controller running 10% extra boost (conservative but see my driving needs), injen hard pipe kit, stillen intercoolers + ducts and THE best additions without doubt were both:- The HKS line controller that 'speed-shifts' the auto box (makes it as good if not better than a manual box-no fluffed changes here). The Mines 'Mild tune' +70hp ECU (secondhand from japan via US Ebay - bargainsville) made a massive difference. The mines ECU is programmed for 97RON fuel so what they have achieved especially with torque is amazing. I have a HKS fuel cut defencer at home but not fitted it having heard contrasting stories about whether I need it or not. To fuel cut defend or not is therefore the first question. Having seen adds for in-line octane boosters how do they work and are their claims of being able to produce 100Ron for 30,000 miles valid? Before I fitted the ECU with the boost controller and induction kit I would get up to 13psi on a good cold morning, after fitting the mines ECU it still makes 13psi but doesn't seem to go any higher. Torque and power is massively better but the question is has the Mines ECU made the boost controller redundant or is the Exhaust now restricting things? The second question is my exhaust is still stock (i want to keep the stock look) and the Mines ECU was mapped for a spec identical to my car except exhaust so.......would it make that much of a difference? I heard that the JDM spec car has a 1.5 inch restricter in front of the cats.......and when I have proposed removing or using racing cats people have warned about blown turbo seals. It has had an auto turbo timer since new and done 69k miles so should I go for a full de-cat system or go the cat-back route? In my mind there doesn't seem to be any point of cat back system if the restriction is earlier in the system but I will bow to experience? Has anyone got experience of either? Should I keep it stock or not? On the chassis side I have fitted the wider UK spec rear wheels (didn't want after market as I really like the stock look) and arriving tommorrow are EBC drilled & grooved discs, red stuff pads and a goodridge hose kit. My next question is what coilovers should I fit for fast road stuff. I regularly travel 300 miles up to the northern coast of scotland (dream drive) and do 300 mile M6 journeys down to Bristol & beyond (nightmare journey). In addition I want to do the odd track day so.........Should I go the Tein route with in car damping adjustment? or the HKS hipermax route. Have any listers got experience of either??? In my heart I probably think that the sotck set-up was probably the best compromise but technology has advanced since then. The US car had in car damping adjustment and you see these ste-ups on (US) ebay has anyone done this upgrade / conversion? I heard there is a diff mod on Euro cars due to higher speed cruising and the demands of the wider wheels. As a regular 300 mile trip 90mph plus driver do I need this? Similarly an autobox oil cooler upgrade has been suggested what do forum members think? Sorry for the list of questions but as a newbie I will give something back as I do the work Thanks Mines TwinTurbo