Funkysi

Correct. Those and Catskins are by far the best I've seen. Much better quality than the others I've seen. Double stitching and much nicer edging.

Maybe if you subscribed. :rofl: I'm not going. Was going to go to Billing. Looks like the turnout at JAE may unfortunately be a bit hit or miss.

I think Leg Nose was Leg Less!

Good man! Minimising colours is the best way to improve the look of a car and making it more pleasing. Orange just should be on any cars. :) one of the first things I did with my car was to replace all the lighting. IE, 99-spec rear lights, clear wing repeaters etc

Looks good, although would have had the lip mirror polished. I know how time consuming split rims are. I had the same amount in mine and mine are recessed behind a lip. So a real PITA

USDM JDM Style one (without running light) JDM Style two (with running light and different defuser patern....note larger running light section to other JDM style) UKDM

There were, if I remember correctly, 4 different types of clustor. USDM clustors with orange tabs at the corners, this was the running light. A lot of the US guys tend to convert them to one of the two types of JDM clustor you can get. 1 of which is identical in interior dimensions (reflector partition sizes, with two holes, one for bulbs that are the same size as convention indicator bulbs. The side light section is the same size as the indicator section almost. Then there are the other type of JDM clustor without the running lights in the corners, for cars fitted with reflectors in the rear bumper as opposed to the ones with running lights. These can be converted but come with a smaller running light section with the bulb hole plugged that can be drilled. I originally had these types, which are what tend to be fitted to most. I now have a pair with running lights built into them. Visually the 2 JDM clustors look almost the same, but the reflector sizes are different, one is obviously drilled as well to accept bulbs and the defuser patern is different. Defuser runs vertically on the ones with running lights built into them and the ones without are kind of hatched in appearance. Then there's the UK clustor which, from what I can gather, is a non drilled tinted version of one of the JDM clustors. So, that's four in total. That excludes the 99-spec bumper.

Mag...lol Not sure where mad came from....my bad week I guess! :rofl:

1st question Yes, MJP should be able to get these. 2nd question Yes, those double up as side lights on USDM models.

Not being bias, but I think any of the pearls would look great. Since the pearls glow in the sunlight, they'll look pretty mad under intense artificial lighting in a studio. Whether it's mine or not, any pearl under that amount of light would look strong. Thanks for the support guys. I am humbled. Personally don't think it's what they are looking for, but nice to know people wouldn't mind seeing it in the mad. Fingers crossed erh! hehe :)

^^Ditto

Those are Ruff Racing 278 aren't they? I'd go for the 218s personally... If you have the wedge, seriously consider these wheels. Work VS-XX, one of my favourite wheels at the moment. Work VSXX Although I'd have the shaddow-chrome centres for mine...

Depending on how much power you want to run through it, you could get a series 3 onwards gearbox. Can take more abuse. Stronger bearings, redesigned gears and syncro rings.

Do you mean digs and curbing marks? I managed to sucessfully de-curb one of my wheels a few weeks ago. I clipped a rather right curb trying to avoid a lorry that wasn't making life easy. I ran nasty scratches and digs all the way around one of my passenger side rear wheels. I got home and looked at it and felt sick. So thought to myself, I'll give myself a go at repairing that before taking it to my local metal refinishers for the last stage mirror polish. Was so disgusted by it, I took the rim off imediately, got the tyre demounted and went to our local motor factors to purchase lots of various grades of WD papers. I think the lowest I got was about a 400 grit which was very very abrasive, but used that to feather back the dead metal and eventually feather out the damage. After sucessfully doing that, I then went on to use 800 grit to remove the marks that the 400 grit left and so on. I fished up with about 2,000 grit WD, each time I changed the grade, I flushed out the bucky of soapy water. Best to use soapy water as it's a good lubricant. I got the lip back to looking even and spot on, it was at an even dullness all round with no low spots. Took me about 2 hours , just to get that lot right. Then took the repaired wheel to a metal finishers to have the lip put on the buffing wheel (which I don't have), did a good job of it, I got the wheel back, attached the whole thing with with autosol and then Brilliant, it looked as good as the day I first picked them up from Marc at 'Juswheels'. Results were totally perfect and I was very happy! So, I can now repair polished alloy wheels too...well, to a certain degree! LOL I should have taken photos actually. If yours are polished, then lacquering the bare metal is just going to cause the same problem again. The thing with polishing/diamond cutting is that the surface isn't keyed and the paint will not bond to the metal. It simply lays there on top. All it takes is a small scratch or stone chip for the laquer to come off, once that's done, due to the nature of it all, water will get in between the lacquer and metal. That's when they go all cloudy and corrosion sets in. This is a process that seems more apparent on the cheaper cast rims. Furthermore, I'd not recommend trying to polish cast wheels, due to the nature of the manufacturing process, you're going to get small cracks, pockets and other imperfections etc. This will have an effect on how it will polish up. Will never really be able to get an amazing finish from cast. Forged split rims, now that's a different kettle of fish. Materials are usually very good with these; aircraft grade alluminium which responds very very well to mirror polishing. Mine are aircraft crade and do respond very well to it.

Just noticed you're in Bristol too! Welcome to the fold! :)

Wow, that's in fantastic condition!! Really nice to see. :duffer:

For custom stuff, try Alunox. Very very highly recommended by those on here who've had them fitted.

Rear lights are not my slice of pie in the slightest, but the rest looks great. Love those wheels and the ride height looks lovely. I'd get the camber sorted on those front wheels though. It'll not only save your tyres, but it'll look a bit more slick too. :)

Stunning black one I see everyday at work. Will try and get some photos of it tomorrow.

Chrome tail pipes? There's a blast from the past! Do you mean stainless steel tailboxes? In which case yes, they unbolt from the mid section just forward of the diff.

:bow:

The figure Mike's quoting is for the allowance and the tax he doesn't pay. For instance, my old company car, I was only taxed on 17% of the car's value or something like that. My tax per month was only about £60 extra than what I'd normally pay without CC. But you pay tax on your company car allowance too, but it's not much I don't think.

Pearl's glow, not shine. I'd hardly call any of the above pictures 'dull'.

It was just a recycled block casting if it was at all. Hell knows what this twin turbo Espace things is you're on about. I even popped into out local Renault dealers this afternoon to see, by chance that what you're talking about is correct. Absolutely sod all on all their microfiches either.

Shame mine's not one of those colours... but if you ever change your mind....