Funkysi

I have no idea what any of that means. lol

It's the turbos that cause most of the restrictions anyway.

That should have said CTS! LOL....but I am sure you knew that anyway!

Quite a few run with without and don't seem to have any problems.

Bit more than mine then. Cats are staying on. I have my 3" exhaust though.

You have boost jets right?

I tought myself to get into powerslides before you passed your driving test CM! I had a Senator given to me at 21. H reg it was, so only about 10 years old. Learned how to powerslide round roundabouts. I guess I don't want to scrub my tyres too much in the Z! LOL Just paid £500 for them.

Is your car black? If it is, I found black one...

Yup, There should be two on there. Smaller one is for the dash clocks. Larger one is the CTD. Usually a yellow-topped connector.

So even if you're driving normally without much boost, it's still noticable? Even with just a chip? I'll be running the chip for a few weeks just to be sure that everything's spot-on before fitting an EBC.

Sorry, that's the tips leading to the back box. Lee, have you anymore photos of your exhaust....ie with it off the car?

They are, regardless, but a good driver can correct. I've done that a few times. Tought myself to drift and powerslide in a Senator. Great fun. It was an NA, so predictable

Stock internals? I'm not really after figures. An indication is nice, but want to feel it out in the road. The real places.! I have a new engine-ish (jimmer-built) with very good turbos, so imagine mine will respond pretty well. Just got to get the car run its absolute best!

No, I can. As I've said before I don't like driving in icey/wet roads if I don't have to. i do enough of that in my Leon. I save the car for the good days as well as preserving the underside of the car and of the car overall, which is what I try and pride myself on. Keeping an old worthless Z in as good condition as I can. One thing about my Z, whenever I want to take it apart, it all flies off no problems. No siezed nuts/blolts or anything, never come across them even when pulling the engine and the complete suspension overhaul. Understide looks new and I want it to stay that way. Dunno if any of this is now makng sense as my medication has kcked right in and I'l gonna pass ouy t in a minute. :)

That's correct. Means he retains the nice tips and shiney edge section. Thinging worst than flat edges. Inwoodly rolled.

Well that's it. I don't loose it in the wet because I never driving it in the wet if I can help it. Always check the forecast!

List your supporting engine mods. Like mine?

Agreed. I still have some sensors to renew, in addition to what I've suggested about. I some new plugs and a pop charger and I'm ready for the chip and controller. Those that run 14PSi on a JD/AP chip, what's the 'wow' factor over stock. My car used to be quicket when running unlimited bost which lent to eventual engine rebuild. F**k me these sleeping tablets are starting to turn into lepper"

You running boost controller Dave?

Just wondering who uses AndyP or John Dixon chips. I've kept the options anonymous. I hear geat reviews from most people. I just want people to respond who have either chips of various levels of aggressiveness. Thanks.

It does, but only because of the elongated tips. Shorten the tips as per my diagram and they will not look as low.

Dry sumping? Probably John Dixon or Legrath.

That I'm not sure of as I've never had any det problems, from either the electrical side (the sensor/loom) or mechanical (it actually detting). Legrath might be able to answer that one.

Yeah, the CTS is electronic and gives the ECU a reading to which it has pre-determined algorithms assigned to a fuel map at that temperature. IE, if it's cold, the ECU will richen the mixture and when warm will lean it out a little. Thermostat blocks the flow of coolant round the engine allowing it to warm up quicker. When the engine is cold, coolant won't flow round the engine. But once up to temp, thermostat opens. It's all in the name of reduced engine wear. An engine that can come up to temperature quickly is one that will have less wear, oil is at the correct viscosity for it to work properly. It's why I've never understood people that drive their car out of the garage and just let it sit there to warm up, thinking they are doing a good thing for the engine. Doing more harm than good. Engine's doing no work, oil is staying low pressure and cold. Top end has little oil flow. I get in my car and drive it straight away. Keeping off the boost, but gradually building the revs until oil pressure has dropped right away.

CTS is coolant temperature sensor. It's one of those things that could give false readings over time. In the cars I've had in the past, I've always treated it as a servicable item, so replace them. A messed up CTS can give you all sorts of fueling/performance issues. Seems to be reading ok on ConZult. But it's difficult to tell as you don't really know the exactly temp of the coolant at the same point the sensor is....don't trust stock gauges! So it could be out. I want to eliminate that variable and want my car running 101% before I started entering the realms of upping the boost. It's the best way IMHO. Det sensor can be bypassed. with a resistor. I forget which ohm. I didn't, I bought a new loom. It's the loom that tends to fail more than the sensor.