Funkysi

They aren't bad once uprated a bit. They are heavy and the back end likes to go out, but that adds to the fun a bit I guess. Standard turbos and ICs are good for about 14PSi giving quite an increase in performance.

Hmmmmmmm, usually they have those non removeable metallic stickers on them with a serial number and VOLK or RAYS stamped on them. In that case they might not be Rays or Volk

FYI, Buyers guide

If they are, take the rims off and they should be stamped on the inside of the rim.

Depends on what you want and what your budget is. There are some very nice modded examples, but you'll be paying for these. Best off looking for a tidy original example with a standard low mileage engine. Look at spending around £4000 - £5000 for something nice. Take someone who knows what they are looking at. I had a bit of bad luck with mine. Whilst mine is low mileage, good condition and seemingly standard, it had the engine buggered about with before it left japan. Had a boost controller removed and bodged back together, actuator plugs taken off. Unfortunately, I now have to fit a new engine. Unless you're sure of the history, go for one as mechanically standard as possible.

He did ask!!! :rofl:

I'd have 'I hate slogans'. :rofl: ;)

Buy a standard well looked after one and maintain it correctly and it'll soldier on for a long time. Plenty of dogs (including mine) that have been ****ed about with which need rectifying.

I know sod all about boost gauges, but I think it's electronic, ie, no vacume pipework. Just two multi pin plugs in the back. Just gotta go and remove the control box and loom. It's this exact look with the 3 warning lights and buttons.

Oh right, so putting my Manual turbos on it will in effect put it almost back to how it is in a TT anyway.

Could be right there. Was unaware of the 6 speed version. This one listed doesn't state whether it has a 6 speed box. I think it would if it actually did.

It's not going to tell you what's faulty with anything you've added to the car though.

Shame, I always thought the Auto engines had a bit more power to compensate for the extra transmission losses. Maybe the engine does develop more power but looses more through the gearbox. Just something I thought I read....that the auto engine into a manual makes a slight bit of difference over standard.

Datscan won't fix it. It'll just show you what's not quite working. If you return it to standard, then it'll be easier to see what's running right and what's not. You start adding other bits to the equation and it'll just take more time.

Erh? What's that got to do with the price of fish? I said it's better to return the car to standard and then get it running correctly before you start adding things to it. It wasn't running well to begin with was it.

Just remove them! Return your car to standard and get it running 100% before you do anything else. :) From what I've read it wasn't running all that well originally.

Here we go. Another person with an 'Estimated' 700bhp http://www.cardomain.com/ride/478340/1 Nice mods, but I'd hope for a better time of 11.2 seconds with 700bhp...still with standard brakes!

I'm putting the tubs in from my Manual...which is a manual.... So will it actually be slower?????????

Ok, so the engine I'm collecting next week is a low mileage example from an Auto TT. From what I know, the cams are slightly different giving the engine a slightly different powerband to compensate for the different transmissions. What other differences are there and what gains would I notice? Are the power figures much different?

No but have heart for the poor gullible sod who thinks is this £8k rare car with 650bhp is actually nothing more than a £2,500 standard GTO.

From what I've read, the GTO hits 60 in 4.8 seconds and the 300ZXTT in 5.5. I think that Nissan figures were pessimistic as I've never known of 3000GTs/GTOs to rape the Zed. On the same note, I think the Mitsi figures are over optimistic. IE, whenever any magazines have done road tests on the Zed, they always seem to be able to strangle more from the car and get better figures than Nissan. IE, 0-60 times were usually stated as 5 seconds, not 5.5 which is near identical to the 4.8 time for the GTO

Sorry, that's wrong. The GTO was actually around half a second quicker to 60. I've since found out that Mitsubishi did a lightened version of the GTO called the VR-4 which might be why the seller thinks it's an R-type. But power is upped by only around 20bhp (300bhp) and 94 onwards had 320bhp. His is a 90 model, so would not have had 200bhp on top of what it already has....infact, this 'tweeked' version was not actually available intil 1991. The VR-4 was also a lightweight car with an electronic rear spoiler which from what I can see on the photos, doesn't exist on this particluar car.

There's no way the engine would look the same to what he claims is double the power over standard surely. Even standard rims. You'd need much bigger brakes that you can't fit behind the standard lego rims of the early GTOs.... I do seriously doubt that. I've even had a hunt for R-type GTOs on the internet just to ease my conscience and there's nothing listed for those either. He's probably some younger person or someone who's never driven anything faster than a 1.6 Fiesta with a mate who's been reading Max Power and gone 'fast as **** mate, 650bhp I say'. Something with this amount of power as standard would certainly be a 'recognised' model...to which it isn't. The whole thing stinks of runny shit with bits of sweetcorn in it.

The thing is bog standard...there's not such thing as an R-type. Even has the gay standard wheels which you cannot fit decent brakes. All the pipework and everything else...including the inlet...all standard. There are a few here lying about at work and I just went over to have a look at one. Bloody identical.

...choice 3, manual boost controller. ;)