Bubuche

I took the car out on the road yesterday for a small ride. My engine has been fully rebuilt by myself and the help of my friend who is a mechanic. I've forged Eagle rods, toga performance bearing, and a second hand for a UK shop crankshaft. The bearing i was using were std and i did 300kms without any problems. Yesterday i raced a audi RS4 (I won :dance: ) but then i heard that my bearing were gone. I took of the oil pan today and found some small particles on the oil pan and a slightly damaged bearing. I haven't took of yet my main bearing but i think the particles are coming from this one. what can cause bearing to go? How to know which size of bearing i'm suppose to use? Thank you again for the help.

as my car is for racing i was thinking (in the case i needed to change the key system) to go with a button but i will try to make copy of my key first :)

ok perfect thank you :)

I got a phone call today from my friend who is also my mechanic saying he broke the key will trying to start the car. Is that a special key or can i find someone to make a copy on a standard key?

they are nice. I've 8..5 in front ET35 and i still have room for bigger so i would say yes, they will fit

Also do you keep standard battery Mac1, I would go for a lighter but don't know which spec.

it's a small new shop in France call Street R performance. He just want our car (I'm the president of a team http://dijonkte.free.fr/index.htm with 2 cars) to wear his stickers but we haven't seen the stickers yet, surprise lol

is that also ok for high powered Z? or does Castrol RS 10W60 is ok?

ok i'm off home for a week but will check when i will be back. BTW, the car is going to the paint shop this week :) and i found a sponsor for the French drift Series :D

the things is i haven't put pressure at all on the engine, not even 1 psi. It's leaking to much !!! Pressure is not buiding up at all. Also, i did the first 200kms with 10w40 semi synthtic oil, then i changed for the synthetic one so maybe it's not wrong. I never heard about different settings of the Probec B for a external wastegate but maybe that is the answer. I will look onto this :)

this is an ansers from a member on australian forum: M8, been through this many times before. You can't do a proper boost leak check untill you block the hoses that go from the inlet cam covers to the turbo inlet pipes. With them connected you are charging the crankcase, which is bad, and the leaks from the dipstick, oil filler etc mask the actual boost leaks. With them removed and plugged you can put in safely 16-20 psi and really find the leaks. For a boost leak test separate the intake from the crankcase and test the intake system only. Takes more time, but IT WORKS

ok thank you :) I will purchase the big oil cooler :) Can you help me on my other problem please :(

i forgot to mention that i have one air intake on each side (where the SMIC were located before). When i do the test, i have to block the other side or air is coming out this other side. Then i can't get pressure, i hear a leak. And i'm 100% sure the leak is located on the oil pan. The seal between the oil pan and the block is leaking. I should also mention I reroute the PCV valve, so should I removed them and plug them for the boost leak test? When you do a boost leak, If you pull the oil stick, don't you lose all the pressure? (I've asked on TTnet month earlier and i've been told it's normal), isn't it?

I'e checked boost leak and it's appear that i loose pressure on the oil pan. I need to remove it and to add more join. But i don't feel like this is the reason why i can't boost more than 0.62 bar. I use a Profec B and even in mode B (1.0bar), i stay at 0.62 maximum. Any idea?

You should really be running the engine in on a cheap 10-40 running in mineral oil. Ask your local supplier for a running in oil. why should I ?

I'm using the standard one I have greddy td05-16G so only air oil cooled I'm using the stock oil cooler. I'm using a sandwitch plate but I'm still using the original feed and return. Should I change something here? For the break in of the engine, I'm using a motul oil 5W40 100% synthese. I planned to use a Castrol RS 10w60 soon. Is there any write up on installing a remote plate? Thank you :)

thank you andyduff, i understand better. Kirbz, my oil cooler is between my FMIC and my Koyo rad. I use the euro spec oil cooler but may need a bigger one :'(

i don't have the fan anymore. I've installed an electric fan (3000CFM puller) and it's tart with a switch. I've also installed a FMIC.

I've been rebuilding my engine since the last 4 month and i took the road today with it. The oil temperature reach 110°C (230F) and i'm just breaking in the engine so i don't run full boost and i don't rev high :( The things that make me feel the oil don't flow through the oil cooler is that after 100miles driving today, i found that the 2 hoses that go to the top of the oil cooler were not tight but there were no leak. I'm reading a oil pressure from 2 (at idle) to 5 bar when i start to rev a little bit so how does the hose didn't jump out with 5 bar of pressure? Hope you understand my accent lol

i've asked because so far i'e spend over 20,000£ on my Z and was wondering if it would have been less expensive to buy one already built by a big name company from japan :) But no problem, i understand your point of view :)

could you tell us how much you payed for this car?

+1 :)

very nice dude, can't wait to see picture (inside and outside :) )

i bought similar from Paul andres on ebay in USA and they arrived with play on the axes... They went to the grabage and i loose 750£... Only few thing are good on ebay and it's not the cheap one ;)

where did you install them?