Hub280ZX

The actual tires on the car are: Front: Goodyear Excellence 225x 40x 18 Rear: Conti sport Contact2 265x 35x 18 I have no idea how old they are, but being used 5 times over the last 5 years, I do not expect them to stay long on the car. Of course, the temperatures were much down both on Sunday (5°C with frost untill two hours before the drive, so a tarmac even colder!) and yesterday (maybe 7/8°C). I did not had a warming session to get the tires at the right temperature... First priority is to have new shoes, and those will probably go for Federal 595 RS-R both on the front and the rear. I know that front suspension are Tokikos, and I have to check the rear ones. No coilovers, but looks like the front is having adjustment screw. One question regarding the weight on front/rear wheels: The french MOT is measuring the weight on front and rear wheels, and the values are: Front 825kg total on both wheels Rear 775kg total on both wheels This is with approx half tank, all fluids in, and the control driver sitting in the car (80Kg) Are those values close to original?

Ok Guys! I have to thank you all for the help solving the issues since the car is now running and running fine. The restart on the road on Sunday was a discovery for me, as the spider in its cage is really something different. I learned rapidly that opening the throttle on this one is something you have to study before doing!It is a monster... The appointment for the french MOT eaquivalent was taken this afternoon. I must admit that arriving at the place started with a bunch of questions starting from "what is this?" All the tests were fullfilled successfully, and the only remark I have on the report is "corrosion visible under the car" I knew it from my first look under, but nothing dramatic, as another visit is not required with what has been checked. So, I have the MOT fullfilled, and the next step will be registration for a French plate number, getting the "carte grise" equivalent to your V5. I was happy on the way back, and with the experience from Sunday, I had another fun drive: First and second gears cannot be pushed as the wheels are just sliding immediately. I had a push on third gear, and the slide was there again from 5500 rpm... (and about 1 bar boost) I moved to fourth gear, and reaching very unreasonnable speed... the slide was there again at 6200 rpm! Tires definitely need a change, and I will probably go for semi-slicks to get better efficiency... But, believe me, this car is really on the top side of what a 300ZXTT can be! So, I'll still have a lot to learn...and it will take some time before I can evaluate the pedal push on bends. I hope I can take it to Spa Classic mid May... and maybe meet some of you guys! Again, thanks for the help for this restart, and I will keep you posted on the next steps to have it perfect. :clap::thumbup:

Happy Birthday Monsieur Andrew! :cool3:

I had indeed!! A few seconds of turbo action...

Well, this morning 8h30, the outside temperature was -4°C with a severe frost on roof... but also on the road with the rain that we had yesterday... I took the car out at 10h30 with a bright sunshine, and started the drive at 11h00, looking for open roads sections under the sun! After a nice warm up getting the engine temperature right in the middle of the gauge and stable, I sat in the cobra seat, got the harness adjusted and left home on a smooth touch of the gas pedal. The first acceleration on the main road was an instand drift from the rear wheels! OK, parameters are getting set... Driving in direction of the old Reims circuit, with a very smooth touch with the right foot, and staying 2500/3000 rpm, the driving was fine. Temperature is stable, AFR values between 13:1 and 14:1, total cut on throttle closure, and brakes active and staying straight. On the second pass along the stands of the circuit, I had a progressive push in 3rd and 4th gears... up to 6500 rpm. Boost pressure reaching one bar... it is just amazing! All parameters stayed nominal, and I had to stop before taking off!! This car has to be tested in germany or on track. I had a drive for about 85 miles, staying very gentle on the gas pedal (as you would...), and this was pure pleasure. Very different from the red one, as it is more brutal. As the target was a caged model for track use, I feel quite satisfied with this first test ride. A lot to learn about the way to use it, no doubt!

By the way, I forgot two more issues above! The front bumper has been readjusted with the front wing. It was badly protruding on the wheel arch. I hope that it stays as readjusted! Last but very important issue: The main blue "fuse", made of one big insulated wire, was a home made assembly with three wires! I had a set bought from JefTT (Thanks), and he told me that this fuse has to be the correct rate, as if higher rated, the complete wiring could take fire having no correct protection! Interesting discovery, so if you never had a look, please check it on your car.

Most of the issues to go for french MOT are now cleared! Change of spark plugs: Engine starts and idles fine Rewiring of the starter push button: No need of the extra wire to the battery Made an oil change with Opie special fast road quality with additives Check on brakes: Ap racing 4 pistons on the front will soon need new pads but enough meat left Check on wheels: Tires are nearly gone... and found a bolt missing Could not screw a standard bolt for Z32: The screws are 16 x 1.5! And with radius conical shape! (Honda?) Found a correct bolt to secure the missing one As the wheels were up on front: Purged the steering circuit turning the wheels end to end and added some oil Had a nice protection for the Motec Ecu and wiring: Relocated the wood panel and carpet The AFR gauge was loose: Packed with foam for protection and fixed it Took all stuff out of the car for a nice clean Placed a spare wheel with tire in the boot and checked for tools Put 20 liters of new unleaded 98 in the nearly empty tank In other words.... ready for a first drive tomorrow hoping it will be as dry as possible!! I still have quite a lot to discover and how to use some accessories, but let's see how it runs first... Yes, I will start slowly and keep an eye on temperatures, boost, AFR, etc... More news tomorrow evening with the result!

Do not change the brain, Si... You made me laugh! :laugh:

Being confident is sometimes rewarding! Claire was like you when we met: She was keeping on telling me "Are you sure that we buy the car and bring it back home?" I was blind to critics because I could not believe that the initial built was wrong, and the Japfest video was prooving it. I think that the attention to the stored car was not the best one... and the look under is prooving it... There is quite a serious job to be made for rust stop and efficient protection. Let's see first if it runs as expected! Thanks for the HKS information. I will try to find someone who knows how to calibrate and use it. Jaffa: Yes, it could be as this option is (or was) activated on the Motec management. There are quite a numerous options in there, even a full WOT gear change... that was disabled by Rob (or more precisely by the Motec tuner on his requirement!) I will first have some drive for test when it is registered with french plates, keeping the HKS EVC off, traction control off, and not changing anything to the motec maps and actual functions. I can have data acquisition from the Motec on test runs, and check all parameters to be safe (AFR/Boost/ignition). After that, I can look in more details about every add on!

OK, some more progress made yesterday and this morning: The start push button was dead (no contact on push!). I tried to find one locally yesterday morning, but Reims looks like a desert for spares you are looking for! I found one finally on an old piece of electric board, disassembled it, enlaged the hole in the plate and monted it. I rechecked the cables and assembly, and it now works! Starting from the driver position is nice compared with the flying wire! I had an oil change before proceeding, putting new 10w50 Opie Oil fats road quality. I put 3.25 liters (without changing the filter). Level is fine, with pressure a little less than 5w40 that was in it (low rpm and not driving). This is the video of the restart, with a view inside the car and on the exhausts. Cobra pipes are quite loud, and I hope that it will not be too loud! One more "discovery" as I wonder if Rob even knew this was installed... Inside the glove box from the central console, there are quite a number of extra electronics in there. I could recognise a turbo timer and a valve controler from what is written on them. Anyone having links for the manuals? There is an extra switch, potentiometer, and led installed... I now have to find and learn how those are working (if they are installed and connected!) A few more matters to finalize... I have two more switches under the start panel, and they link directly to the Motec management ecu plugs. I have to trace the pin numbers and find what they actually are... The other one is correct adjustment of the front bumper with the right wing, and repair of a resin break in the bumper. I also have to relocate the battery quick connection plug that is located at the rear of the front number plate: We must have plates fixed with rivets in France as screws are not possible (too quick to exchange plates?:)) Insurance for the road drive will be activated next week... and I am now in a hurry to test the car!!

Veuillez m'excuser, Monsieur Slick Pete... I am bad with my english, and it was not my intention to let people understand something wrong. I never said that you did the job for nothing in terms of charge, cost, money or payment. All I was meaning is that from Rob faulty diagnostic, you changed it for no necessity. Thanks for having installed the extra wire to get the missing activation and engine start. Congratulations for your running project on the 240Z! Very nice job!

OK! :thumbup1: Jaffa, you were right, asking a sparks plug change! Noz, I used BCR8ES and they run fine! Thanks guys!! I had a start test with four hands, and it runs nicely at 1000/1050 rpm with engine cold. No hesitations any more, and same vapor output from both exhausts until I stopped. Good, so the engine is now running fine for start and idle. Lambda values are around 12,5/13 By the way, is it possible to clean those fouled spark plugs and how? ... Or should they go direct in the bin? On the other hand, I had a lift on the 4 column lifter, and I could easily find the starter cable that I have to check. The view under the car was not impressive... as there is a number of areas where the rust has more than appeared! I'll target first the obligations for the french MOT, and get the registration. But then, I will need a better look and have some protection done.

Before I can proceed further, I have to solve this starter problem. When SlickPete changed the starter, the wiring was not functionnal with the added pannel having a general switch and a starter push button. So basically, he changed the starter for nothing, and I have a spare one! The wiring is interrupted somewhere, and the engine starts actually from a separate wire to contact the + from the battery. Considering the battery on the passenger side, and the action with this wire on the battery, it is not possible to sit in the bucket and look at what happens at the same time. I have the impression that the throttles are too much closed (physically) to allow the engine to run on idle. The help of a foot push is necessary, but not possible being alone! I will try to connect an extra push button on this wire... hoping that it does not welds with the spark induced. Of course, the wiring as it is now with this push button for start is nothing defined on a wiring diagram, and I have to trace the whole circuit before getting mixed... and risk short circuits! Anyone knows if there is a relay activated with the key contact on start position and where it is located? Hopefully the extra circuit is connected to this relay... I'll also have a lift of the car tomorrow, and have a look to quickly inspect it from under...

Thanks for info guys! So, the matter was to find spark plugs in Reims today, and I could get 6 units BCR8ES (the BKR 7 EIX-11 are on order as not avaliable). I took some time to get the actual plugs out, and they are BKR8 EIX... black as if they stayed in a fuel chimney for years!! The pictures... They are all six the same. Not wet (they ran on Sunday for about 5 minutes around 1000 to 2000 rpm). I changed them for the ones I have BCR 8 ES gapped 0.9 mm. Before I try to restart, I would like your opinion. It looks like the fuel is much too high, at least for idle, and that's all the car has tried to run since Two years! However, when I started it on sunday, the AFR readings were not showing crazy numbers as they were around 11/14, and the garage was not filled with dark smoke. So could this come from multiple attempts to run it just warming up, without cleaning on the road? Maybe I should start and see how it runs with the new plugs, and after a warm up session, check two or three again to see if they become really black? I have to solve matters for the technical control (MOT equivalent) to have it registered before I can go for a ride on the road...

What do you recommend for such upgraded engine? Platinium or irridium, grade 7 or even 8 Looks like Platinium still have their fans because of a longer nose, but irridium gives the hot/cold choice I must admit that I never looked at the ones I have on the other Z32, but they should be platinium as mapping was made by John Dixon and he is a fan of those

When you say front in the air, you mean wheels off the ground or... higher? Idle is not better when warmed up. I have to keep my foot with little touch to avoid engine stop, and under 1500/2000 rpm it is not running with all 6 cylinders. Thanks for the picture Andrew! You still have many in UK compared with France, and this one is not counting in the classic list with all the changes... Looking to have it on the road in a few weeks... hopefully.

Jaffa: The idle control is done by idle air control through proportionnal output channel 1 Santa: How to get rid of the air in the pipework? Self purge by running, or defined method? I disassembled the balance tube and replaced the small O-Ring as it was white packed stuff in the groove...(!)

I have to check the idling method with the Motec, and I will confirm. Good that the injectors should not be a problem. I thought that I confirmed the calendar reciept... :blush: sorry and thanks for it: Very nice, and standing in my office!!

Hello all! (from France!), After a year of really nice rides with the Red Z32, including track days and Spa Classic sessions http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?166760-A-Z32-driven-to-France-for-a-new-or-continued-life-into-a-nice-home! http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170028-Z32TT-500-BHP-on-Spa-Classic-2013-25-amp-26-of-May I could not resist a second Z32 when the special dedicated track version was for sale end of last year http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173306-1991-High-Power-600bhp-Track-prepared-300zx-TT-for-Sale A one day drive to UK with the trailer and the car was now in Reims! The discovery of the car was as expected regarding the specs, but a few things were not exactly as good as it should be... Christmas and New Year was too busy with the family to look at it, and January was just filled with professional travels and business matters! I now took the opportunity of this week end to start having a look as the weather is better (here!). I could not have the idling running on all six cylinders in UK, and restarting the engine here was the same or worst (not starting!): Checking the Motec diag screens on a PC with the ECU connected, I have no errors. I checked the connectors for both coils and injectors, and could not find any real fault, even if they are not "fully reliable" at the look at them. I then had a restart and pushed the throttle to get 1500/2000 rpm... and the engine runs fine on 6 cylinders, with AFM values correct and stable. I come to two possible reasons: 1. Un calibrated throttle sensor as idling value is very low. I have to recalibrate the range and look if it comes to better situation. 2. Poor jetting of injectors on idling as 700 cc/min units are probably running badly with very short opening times. I cannot see any problem on PTU (phase 2) or synch, as it woul not run correctly at higher RPM than idling. The petrol in the tank is probably very old, so I should change it for new. The petrol filter has to be checked for plugging The pressure regulator will require some pressure check to avoid any problem on this side Would you consider above points as the right points to be checked? Do you see any other point that could give those faults? Comparing the steering assistance between the red one and this one, turning the wheels is initiating some noise as soon as turned (like it woul do on the end of the turn). What could be the reason for this? Thanks!

Hi Gary, just a word to confirm that my subscription renewal is done as it will be ending on 18th of January. I used Paypal. Hubert (Hub280zx)

My best wishes from France for this new year 2014! All the best to the whole UK fans family! :cool3:

One for me jaffa, if you agree to re-send it to France! ---> MP Thanks!

Any update on the restart of the engine? Thanks Rob!

I do not know about the fuel pumps precision for volume delivery in UK... but in France, I have seen serious gaps! 73 is what you pay for, and 70 could well be the delivered volume... 3 over 73 is 4%, so what is the tolerance at the end of the calibration validity period? I have seen also certification validity dates (on the pump stickers to prove calibration) finished since three or 5 months... By the way, on top of this, there was a study on "how to fill your petrol tank" so that the delivered volume is supposely right: You have to fill until the automatic stop closes the flow the first time. As soon as you restart, reclick, restart, reclick... and so on, the errors are just enormous (up to 25% of the complementary volume added!!) Oh, and be sure that the delivered volume is always less than the one you get!! :gun_bandana:

Very nice car indeed! Coming on the subject regarding "easy" registration in France, it needs to be a UK 2+2 TT manual originally imported to UK by Nissan UK. Then, the model is the same as the french imported type, and no matter the side of the driving wheel, Nissan france will provide the COC document for homologation. The JDM models imported in UK, or the SWB cannot get this document, and you have to go through a procedure to get the car homologation... meaning 2500 Euro cost to open the file... before knowing if the officials will allow you to get the document!! There are cars in France that never got the acceptance, so that's a very risky operation. The other more simple solution applies to cars 30 years old... but this means waiting quite a long time for 300TT!!! My question is then: Is this car for sale a UK model originally imported by Nissan UK? (Or can you confirm the serial number identification number to check with Nissan?) If positive, the french market is opened for those who accept to drive a RHD car on our roads... But the price is penalized from RHD in France... do not forget this point. The pictures are showing quite a number of mods: What are the ones on the actual car? A clear definition of what are the components and the extras would be required for clarification. Thanks for your answers...