MCMLXXXV

Oil pressure gauge is weird, it works when the car is car is in ignition, sits at 4kg marker, drops eventually to 0 whilst the car is running, possibly a faulty gauge or sensor? I'd imagine if there was no oil pressure then the oil pressure light will come on the dash and car would barely drive Thanks for the link, I'll go over it and see if that helps Haha yeah, this car is a juicy f*cker lol

Thanks Medallion, here's the update car seems to run pretty damn sweet, I started it let it run for a bit, seems fine, switched it off and started the car back up, did this few times and started up every time, but the second and third time around needed an extra chug or so but started up fine still, I let it run for a bit then turned it off, I finished fitting back my interior etc. so about half an hour after started it up, started fine but for a second I am sure I smelt fuel, now I can't find any leaks around the lines which I have access to in the engine bay, under the car cant see any drips etc. is it possible its excessive fuel dumped in the exhaust? other thing is more I keep my ears out more paranoid I am getting of little noises here and there, I hear these noises and much worse in my Citroen C3 lol but never really care, in this car I am paranoid...alot its probably nothing, sounds are a bit of tapping(maybe sticky injector?) tiny tiny rattle, could be anything tbh, a screw or bolt lose vibrating against a piece of metal, its very faint the main issue for at the moment is the rev dropping, here's the video I made am I being paranoid and nit picking the car?....

Baz, your car looks mental mate :thumbup1: quite like your rear arches are they ZG flares?

if its for looks then you can probably fit alot wider than 255 if your wheel's width and offset are correct, which means it'll allow you alot of space for wide wheels but if you want it for performance then really wide wheels might not be suitable, they can reduce slip angle and can cause the car to understeer.

Cheers Redwine and Rich, I'll do a detail inspection of the fuel lines, I did however had a quick look at them when I smelt fuel immediately and they look ok to me, no dripping under the car either. Thanks Jeff, I'll have a look at the connection and just makesure its nice and tight I assume this is what we're on about, the one on the left?

Sorry to bother you guys again so soon, I just want to iron out all tiny bit of issues on my Z so here are a few question I have. - Sometimes on idle when you tap the accelerator very tiny bit, the rev drops for a split second and goes back up again, this happens occasionally. - After I upgraded to the S2 PTU, the car was running fine for on idle for maybe 5 mins before shutting off itself, started back up fine - this only happened once. - Following from my point above, I have experienced the car cutting out sometimes and then second time starting it will absolutley stink of petrol(pure raw petrol) I couldn't find any leaks, car cranks just didn't fire up, I opened the bonnet, played around with the PTU plugs, they were on fine, and went back in and the car fired up ok - this has happened once on the new S2 PTU and has happened several times previously on the old PTU. I hardly ever use the car, but everytime I drive it I love it! I just want it to be more reliable so I can faith in it when I take it out that I wont be stuck somewhere, I carry a full asssorted tool kit with me just in case. all problems could be linked together but I wouldn't know, I'm thinking maybe the CAS(crank angle sensor) playing up?.... any help and advice will be much appreciated Thanks Sascha

I think R32 rears work but not the fronts I was researching on this when looking for coilovers for mine, I just ended up buying Z32 specific coilovers

So would you reckon its worth taking the cam cover off to see if all is well? Its not fouling at the moment since I managed to pull back bit of the top bolts. Just curious if its worth checking the pulley for damage? I think the pulley will be fine unless you guys tell me Nissan made it outta cheese lol

Groover, I think you're right, I didn't use long bolts, used the original bolts and they came out easily enough, it was an extremely niggly job though. I can remove one of the cross threaded bolts of I wrestle with it enough, the other one is a bit too in to wrestle out, so i'd imagine if I remove the cam cover I can just replace it with a new cam cover and re-locate the PTU at the minute its not rubbing at all probably because the bottom bolts at the minute have possibly angled the top cross threaded bolts away from the pulley it was screeching against. is the cam cover easy to remove? I had a quick look at it before it got dark, there is one cam cover bolt behind the hard water pipes which is a mystery :/

Basically I was replacing my S1 PTU with the S2 everything went alright except that I didn't bother putting 2 bottom bolt/screws when I put the PTU on, the 2 bolts on the top I felt were more than enough to secure the PTU well. anyways I started the car, car started fine but I could hear stupidly loud screeching sound, and when I say loud I mean REALLY LOUD!, I couldn't even get near the engine bay to investigate. After further investigation I found out its the 'Driver side timing belt cover' somehow fouling and making the noise, the noise eventually eased up but was still loud enough to annoy I took the PTU off again and this time tried bolting all four bolts, well surprise surprise the top 2 ones I put on are cross threaded so they come out a bit and then start spinning freely and now won't go back in either. Right now the PTU is held by the bottom 2 bolts the top 2 bolts are halfway in the car isn't making the screeching noise anymore, but does if I push or play around the cam cover so the question is.... whatever is fouling behind the belt/cam cover would it be serious? I dont know where the PTU bolts actually go into behind the cover, these PTU bolts are pretty long. how easy is it to remove that side of the cover? and does anyone has one? lol

cheers guys :) did some more work on the Z the other day, will get a thread up with all the updates :)

Thanks Richard, I'll get more pics sorted :D

Thanks mate, I research a lot online anyway, but some questions are best answered by experienced users :) Here's some shoots of both the cars http://grandnostalgic.com/2012/06/bros-before-shows/ http://grandnostalgic.com/2012/03/knight-rider-not/#more-1678 http://grandnostalgic.com/2012/05/zenki-love/ Thanks mate, I'll get more pics up of my Z32 when I start my build thread Good to meet you too Pete :)

I'm Sascha, I was asked ages ago to join the forum by one of the members, I never really came on here much because I was a Z31 owner. This was my Z31 Turbo SWB (yep you read that it's a Z31 SWB) and later I sourced a Zenki Z31 Slicktop(the only one in UK) which I later sold to a Grand Nostalgic member. This was my Z31 Turbo which was one of a kind with string of custom built parts including Coilovers built specifically for me by Gaz Engineering who specialize suspension for race cars. Wet Shoot (7) - big by mcmlxxxv_ssr, on Flickr here below is the Zenki slicktop I used to own, but I sold it to a friend in stock form, he did all the work and made it look like how it does below Anyways my Z31 Turbo is sold now and has gone to a buyer in Lithuania, now I am a proud owner of a Z32 SWB TT in Manual, it has some tasty mods, Exedy race clutch, short throw shifter etc, some parts I want to de-mod like the Japspeed exhaust and the wheels it came on. I'm quite familiar with Z cars, I've had a good share of them but still learning something new about this car everyday so bare with me if I bombard all you guys will questions that might appear very simple and/or silly :biggrin: I have already bought some new bits for it, I'll start a build thread and update as regularly I can. Cheers Sascha