welder-sparx

hi just brought conzult from flee bay got it today will check it out and keep you posted thanks mate

that car will sell on piston heads no problem mention its a club car and you are half way there

sorry should of deleted some of the text before pasting wiki answers are the source

There are a lot of incorrect answers here... but for the most part, you can hold true to these: Blue smoke is primarily from internal engine wear. If it's constant when the engine is on, then the rings etc are worn and need to be replaced. If it only is blue when the engine is cold or first started, the rings are worn but not gone completely. You get the oil seeping during the night and it burns off when the car is started in the morning. Black smoke is a fuel/air mixture suggestion problems with injection or carburation. Cause of black smoke is due to running rich in the fuel air mix. White smoke can and DOES come from coolant burn off in the oil due to a leaking or blown head gasket, cracked head etc. If you aren't sure or you don't know what you're talking about, don't advise. Wrong advice can be more damaging than the actual problem. White smoke is caused by engine coolant/Antifreeze being processed in the combustion chamber(s) of the engine.....ie burning, melting, frying, whatever....Period....I'll explain further.... This is automotive chemistry 101....Oil of any automotive type burns blue.....too much fuel issues burn black not enough fuel issues burn grey on a cold day you may see what appears to be white smoke from the exhaust that will disappear after the vehicles engine has warmed up to it's normal operating temp.. This is a normal reaction called condensation... condensation is the result of a small amount of water/dew being drawn into the exhaust usually collecting in the muffler and/or the catalytic converter and is caused by our friend mother nature..... like when you see your breath on a cold wiki answers

why brake it that will sell easy

tried getting vents from powertrix and out of stock

stu you wouldn't like to give free stainless manifolds would you as you are a nice bloke lol:biggrin:

big thanks to you steve and like I said if you ever need a hand give me a shout

thanks mate will do bit been chasing my tail knowledge is power lol

by passed ecu temp sensor shorted out the two connectors and fan came on helppppppppppppp

took fan out and put 12v on it all ok checked rad/brake light fuse ok and switched relays on main fain box from air to fan and vice virsa checked voltage at fan plug and only got 4v help please

omg rad fan not working will buzz it out

done burp test on lower rad hose loads of bubbles came out of rad valve is there another way of eliminating all air ?

battery being relocated to boot by the looks ? and where do you buy the silver sound proofing! but not that cheap bubble wrap crxp

found electrical problem hazard warning switch stuck in draining battery omg found water leak reglued targa drain plug in wing but had split since i last looked at it two down one to go overheating still to sort going to take the rad out and all hoses

whats that all about guys just looking who's online and found the above

25 minutes each side and I am a noob one of the easiest jobs ever done used a universal from unipart £18 the pair wont post how I DID IT BECAUSE I PROBABLY DONE IT WRONG

1 300zx.co.uk

hi if you are thinking of buying buy one from a club like this other wise you will spend a bucket of cash fixing it. flee bay is a prime example of sheds being sold as palaces cheers and welcome Paul

checked targa for leak all ok dash out and heater matrix ok no leaks weird as fxxk the car started first time and three times after today vod not to worried about the engine as its going to jimmer for rebuild and pistons soon :biggrin:

no its overheating steam coming from engine lol and hoses hot thanks mate

got water in footwell eliminated targa drain recon matrix then electric problems/overheating?

hi vod the imobilizer problem is all linked to the main problem as its electrical problem !!but would jump starting the car have anything to do with re-engaging/ dearming the alarm if at all related to the the non starting I know its bloody confusing

ok the car alarm wont set or unset the car it wont start no light on dash no headlights jump start the car everthing works ok then at anytime the car will fail to start as said this maybe 2 days 2 minutes 2 weeks completely unknown when it will happen cheers

ok sometimes the car will start and alarm will set and unset half an hour 2 hours 2 days later nothing and I have to jump the car to get it started no visible drop in coolant replaced thermostat and drained coolant flushed rad thanx