GaiJin

condensation in the AIV pipe/pipes,see if you can hear it louder under the wheelarch, if so then thats your culprit.

Yep thats the one...nice car Si

Saw you coming through woodhouse towards fence roundabout about 7pm this evening. I was in my alter ego white starlet and gave u a wave :D She looks nice and shiny considering the crap weather we are having congrats on a very nice car m8!

Hi Andy, hope you get her sorted, if I can help in any way lemme know...Im not mega technically capable but have owned my car for a good while and can offer some help & bits n bobs to try/replace when fault diagnosing...as you will likely have to at some stage, all part of the joy of owning a Z :D btw Im at Brinsworth John

If your n/s turbo is dying then Ive got a good un you can have and Im just down the road from ya too it would seem ;)

Sounds identical to the problem I had and if it is Im gonna save you a lot of grief & cash! I had the same noise on my nearside only and thought it was the turbo spindle but only when the car was at idle. After purchasing a replacement turbo and a lot of thinking...maybe I shoulda done them in reverse order :headvswal I finally found the problem...it was condensation in the rubber pipe inside the n/s wing that goes into the valve there, I removed the pipe drained the water...no noise. Some weeks later the same happened so have since removed the whole valve set up & pipes and blocked the vac pipe inside the engine bay. Forget the name of the valve but its the one that sends air to the cats. I hope this helps ya matey.

Thanks guys, I found it by trial and error but am posting to let others know which I used should they need a switched live or direct live in future. The blue and white wire is the switched live to the back of the clock the permanent live is the yellow one. thx again for your help

Trying to wire in a new boost gauge, its a smoked glass version so I need a live feed to it to light the gauge once ignition is on. Ive searched around a bit and followed instructions to pick up a feed from the ashtray light live but this only lights my gauge when the vehicle lights are on. Have tried the positive to the radio but once I hook up to it the radio is dead. Heres my question, does anyone know the colour of the live wire into the small digital clock, Im hoping to pick up a live from there. Another possibility is one of the 2 looms/white connectors on either side of the dash cowl...again if anyone knows the correct wire Id be very grateful. I ought to mention that the car is a Jap TT 91 model. Many thx in advance.

Try cleaning the yellow connector terminals on the temp sender, also terminals on the maf too! hope this works for ya :)

I bought an 096 model-I think thats a standard part ref across all makes and it runs just fine(been on 12 mnth now)

Mine is the same policy and it costs me...wait for it £175 :hyper: how good is that???

Thanks guys this is the model ok and the 'how to' is excellent! However, Im still left with the problem of fitment. As mentioned theres a short lead from the rear of the unit with a 3 pin connector....and thats it GAAHHHhhhhhh so Im still looking for someone to inform me where this connector matches to (deffo missing the loom from this point on) so that I can manufacture a loom to suit. But hey!! thank you for helping me you have indeed solved 50% of my probs.

Houghtons have been great for me, I wouldnt hesitate to recommend them!

Ive acquired a Blitz Dual SBS Spec R boost controller without either the fitting or operating instructions, Im kinda hoping one of the club members may have the same equipment AND the instructions and let me have a copy! On the rear of the display module theres the cable that goes to the input/output box under the bonnet,the connector for the air/vacuum feed and an- as yet unfigured out third short lead with a 3 pin connector. I think Im missing the lead that goes from this to...umm the ECU Id guess can anyone help pls? thx in advance.

Autobox fluid level maybe??? Worth a check! ;)

Identical problem to yours and after LOADS of pi55ing about trying all sorts problem was as previously stated - ECU temp sender terminals corroded!

Hi Think I spotted you last summer down towards Cantley!! Anyhow...there was a thread a short while back recommending a place in Nottingham, I realise its just a bit farther than you would like but heres the link if you want it. http://www.juswheels.co.uk/before_after.html GaiJin

yes the offer still stands, glad to help a fellow owner if I can...mail me at 2badd@talktalk.net and we can arrange something.

Ive got the set up on the left, came with the car when imported, Ive shone the endplates and tail pipes up and fitted a wings west bumper and I think it looks great!

Yet another to look out for in Brinny eh???? ;)

boot compartment lights or glove compartment lights are a common cause ;) A faulty switch will leave the damn things on all the time :mad:

Sounds like a faulty MAF to me too, Id disconnected mine a while back when I had the filter off for a clean, forgot to reconnect and had very similar symptoms!

I have a spare IAAV if you need it, I changed mine in the hope of solving an irratic idle problem (turned out to be the temp sensor). You can have it for free as a goodwill gesture as long as you intend to subscribe here :) I can tell you that its a real pig to change though!

As Clarkey just said re safety boost, your water temp sender will put you in safety boost AND cause irratic idling too. You did mention that it stalls at idle yeah??? ;) Remove the yellow plug and clean the terminals up, it worked for me when I had idling problems. good luck

Thx guys...sorry for not doing a search of old threads, my heads a shed this morning, Im having a BAD DAY like you wouldnt believe. thx again GaiJin