njmworsley

Lol I think you guys are thinking on the same lines as me I really need it to be easy to fix, maintain and most of all cheap!! ill still be building the zeds block though over time, I've seen a crx esi for 500 quid that looks ideal for the job plus its red so it'll be like the zeds little brother lol

Sounds like the fob Batts knackered you'll have to do the procedure above once the Batts been replaced, i was gonna say the same thing with the Windows the door locks are usually only held on with a small clip it sounds like the clips broken and the locks stuck open whip the door card off and have a look it might be an obvious fix

A? But vague? What actually happened? Did it go pop? Steam? Oil?

OK I went on my first proper track day at brands the other day I wasn't driving I was being a passenger in my 2 mates evos and I've kinda got the bug. Now I wanna get stuck in but I have a dilemma, do I track prep the zed on the grounds its a great car and has plenty of power or do I buy a vti civic on the grounds that I won't care about spinning/breaking it as it's a whole heap easyer and cheaper to fix? Plus I have uprated parts for the civic coming out of my ears If I were to track the zed I'd build the spare engine I've got in the garage new rods/pistons maybe new valves and springs and some slightly uprated tubs plus the usual rad/intercooler and finaly a manual conversion I'm not fussed about coilovers but will polybush everything and do something with the brakes plus I'd keep it as my weekend toy to drive to see my mum in Cornwall and my brother in huddersfield so it couldn't be a hardcover track tool (hence no coil overs) If I were to do the civic I'd keep it souly as a track car and I've got most of the parts i need coilovers/brakes/uprated head/rad/oil cooler etc etc but because of the new rules I'd either have to buy a trailer and a tow car or keep it taxed,tested and insured which seems a waste What do you guys think? Btw either way I'm gonna be building the zed block lol

Injectors ain't the problem its the stress your putting on the internals you could have 1000cc injectors and still not be able to run more than 16psi because, no1 the turbos will be out of puff and no2 the pistons will be getting put under a lot more strain than they are designed for, As for the original question id just bite the bullet and pay for a custom map at least you can then have a high and low boost map so your block isn't always under that pressure plus you'll probably make more power and because of high and low boost your block might last more than 10 mins lol

If you set the psi at 14 for example then the boost controler will keep the turbo wastegate closed untill it reaches 14 psi as your boost level reaches this the controller will begin to open the wastegate to stop overboost the gain controls the rate at which the wastegate is opened. If you set the gain high it will and hold the wastegate closed untill the last second then snap it open causing the boost to come on but if the wastegate doesn't snap open it will cause overboost, if I were you I'd set the gain so that the boost comes up and sits .3 psi below max boost then creeps the rest of the way, just keep yuor eye on it when you set it up

Also could turn the limiter on and the warning buzzer I've got the buzzer set about .4 psi lower than the limiter which gives you a bit of leway

Just be a bit careful with the gain as too much can cause boost spikes which will cause det and damage as smithy says increase it slowly I'm running a blitz and I've got the gain set at 30 and boost on 14 psi it comes on strong but doesn't spike

I think the 94/95 cars had a few changes that some people prefer can't think of them off the top of my head but I'm sure someone on here will be able to list them all!! As for the auto/manual thing its all down to preference I was in a similar situation a year ago, I was lucky and found a good example pretty quick and not too far away but there are story's on here of people driving hundreds of miles and waiting months for the right one. In my opinion if would stay well away from the cheap ones, these cars hide problems like no other for example my car had boost leaks/ timing was out/boost controller was plumbed in wrong/injector plug had melted and it was detting its tits off and in all honesty it still felt great to drive. Maybe if I knew zeds better id have noticed the faults jeff did the first time he drove it but he eats sleeps and breaths zeds Rust is the real killer of these cars it hides all over the place and is usually well established by the time it's discovered check the front and rear sills as the water run off from the targa tops drains through them and they go from the inside out so if there's any sign of rot on the sills just walk away as it's probably much worse than it looks, check under the battery and under the carpet in the foot wells as a leaky targa drain pipe often forces water here and can cause some weird and wonderful electrical issues not the end of the world but a good barter point because the targa tubes are a pain to fix its a buyers market at the moment so take your time and pick the right one. Don't get me wrong I'm not trying to put you off, owning these cars is really special and a dream come true for many the looks you get and the comments from people, driving them is great fun and even though there 20 years old there still well equipped, comfortable, fast (I mean really fast) looks great, have bags of character and once you get one you'll be totaly hooked from your first drive, but buy the wrong one and your in for big bills very quickly Good luck Nick

And I'd back jeff up all the way as Im pretty sure that said pics are of my car! Pm me for details as open discussion on the subject is frowned apon

If you take it to steve you won't be disappointed well worth the 500 quid imo

Not surprised there a shed load easier to work on than the cramped vgs lol my guess would be get a new nylon pipe joiner and plug the 2 ends together

It looks like a plastic joining piece inside the bottom pipe to me, possibly snapped causing you to lose all your coolant

Looks to meet like they should be joined together if they have been like that when the cars running I'd expect there to be coolant everywhere!!!

some poor gits about to buy this for 36k :scared::scared::scared::scared: i wouldnt pay £36 for it!!! if you had 40k to spend why not buy a gtr that hasnt been written off, then spend the 10k that youd use to fix the gt3 to put an alpha kit on the gtr???

Now just gotta convince the boss that this would be the ideal work van

Fecking hope so it's about time they started to reflect their true value!!!

Aww sorry to hear that mate she was one of the most placid friendly dogs I've had the pleasure to meet, one of the only dogs I've ever felt completely comfortable around from the first 10 seconds of saying hello, a true testament to you guys I'm sure she'll be sorely missed. R.I.P

You can buy a contact cleaning pen there the nuts and only cost a few quid they use fiberglass inserts to lightly scratch the grime and carbon away we use them for cleaning up burnt/carbonated relay contacts on lifts

Wow bet he had to change his pants after the last run

Ahh then yea center bearing is best bet

Mine was doing a similar thing turned out to be the hicas joints were knackered

So ill need some sort of conversion kit?

Sorry just re read that I think there square

No idea I've never looked would I be able to tell without taking the plenum off?