brightFAME

Red 300zx in Sheffield just near pure gym. Looked tidy enough apart from the huge ferrari badge on the nose.... :(

I'm running an HKS EVC boost controller bud

Ah right, apologies mikey too. Just looked at it a little farther and there is a t connector which then was routed to the level solenoid. With that now gone I take it its safe to cap it then? Thanks or all the help and quick responsees to everyone too!

not had any issues from the tubs mate, that said I've still no idea what it is

only the PRVR bypass, which in all fairness is the only time i think it could have got disconnected, that was with it now been bypassed, while the vacuum tank is still down there no air should be running through it. somewhere down the line here im assuming ive done something daft...

as the title says really, tested for boost leaks after the idle on my zed has been suffering and seem to have found the culprit. not sure how its come about but before I go capping it can anyone tell me what its connected to just to be safe. pics

just got a message from nick explaining what happened. he baught the wheels from me off the back of this thread: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=152001 i'm really sorry to hear what happened aswell as shocked. i can only apologize but as i mentioned in the thread they where thrown in as part of the sale of my zed, i never ran them and i was informed by barry who i baught the car from they were solid. looking at the wheels they did look that way. again i can only apologize glad to hear your safe and that you was able to salvage the weekend

I'm sure I've seen other copies about but off the top of my head http://www.uniqueautosports.com/ do some replica nose panels. The site doesn't let you link directly but its under: Products > Nissan 300ZX > Bodykits & Styling > scroll to the bottom of the page

which is why we leave it there for the mothership to save her 20p per liter lol.... vile stuff ha my thoughts exactly, went to fit the pit I'd baught today and they didn't line up so me and the dremel are trying to come to some arrangement. have to say running back and forth the the car to check fitment isn't the most fun on a broken ankle ha

thanks for all the comments, again I'm really chuffed with the job and it seems daft that i spent the last week debating whether to just stump up and get the ones from america too. in the end i just couldn't be bothered to wait, got the tint remover stuff so i could take it off if it looked pants and was expecting it to just put me on ha hi bud, the colour is midnight purple, looks great on the zed and in photos i think but to get a real feel for it you need to see in person as it is really dynamic based on the lighting conditions

I was pretty happy with the result so went out and left them to dry for a few hours, this is the finished result when i got back with the masking tape removed: You could then go on to apply a layer of clear coat on top but looking at the finished result and feeling it seems pretty robust and thick, plus i wanted to see them on the car. my only reservation was would they be too dark on the car and not let light through. hooked them up to the car and i have to say i was really impressed (took a few tries to get this shot and a video would probably been better in all honesty): and the finished result :) i have to say im pretty stoked with the result. I think they look miles better on the car though admittedly a before photo would probably help and while i'm sure the CZP nismo ones will be superior product for a tenner im not complaining :)

For anyone interested in the 'nismo' (I'm skeptical as to whether they are a genuine item or not) here's my home made versions using the stock ones, admittedly they're not carbon copies, but this cost £10 the other ones from the US are looking closer to £90 with shipping and probably more after import tax. these can be seen here at CZP: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=1072&Car_Type=300&UID=2011082711150890.216.226.222 You only need a few bits really, the indicators themselves (tend to come stock :) ) and some tinting spray. In all fairness this is essentially just diluted black spray paint and you can use just standard black paint and apply it thinly but personally I figured this allowed you a little more room for error and its only £6 to £10. I used the 'E-tech Lens Tinting Kit' Smoke colour which comes with tint spray, remover and two cleaning wipes. In all honesty having done this I'd say you really don't need the other stuff and to save a few pennies and the tinting spray on its own. It isn't overly thick so allows you to take your time and build it up to where you want. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=860&g=3051&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Performance Anyhow moving onto a few piccies and a little guide them. Forgive me for not photoing this step and then probably going overkill on the latter ones but tbh its all relatively straight forward: First off the tinting spray: then to get the indicators tart by unscrewing the lights (two screws at the side) and removing the indicator clip and you'll be left with the two following (not right ones :P ): then to be nice and thorough mask up the back of the lights (not necessary really as I can't see over-spray been too much of an issue back there) next comes spraying, I also like to put the can in warm water for five minutes prior as i tend to find you get better coverage from the extra pressure and obviously the warmer paint dries faster: with that done grab the can and begin to spray the lights, the e-tech packaging recommended holding the can 20-30 cm away and then just maintain a fluid motion horizontally then vertically to build up coverage. As i say the stuff goes on quite thin so build it up to the desired tint then leave to dry. I was pretty happy with the result after one coat but if you want to apply another then allow it to dry for 5 minutes and apply the other layer. this is the before and after for me during the first coat:

Fitting some MeisterR's to my mates E36 M3 earlier. When reading through any guides everyone sensibly points out its easier to lower further if needed. After the first fit it appears I might have taken this a little too seriously: It did tickle me though :laugh:

Well the zed is on the road now & I've never been to JAE so wouldn't mind going this year. I've just seen the main thread but been relatively new to the forum and only knowing a few faces I was just wondering who from South & West Yorks is going and if anyone would be game meeting up before hand and convoying down :)

I've been planning some bypasses and deletes for the zed for a while now and one I really want to do is removing the carbon canister system. Unfortunately with it been a 1997, following the guide on Robo's site it says i should be throwing up quite a few error codes if I do this and I can't seem to find much more info elsewhere. Guide: http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html I was just wondering given the site is getting on a little now has anyone come up with a way of doing this on a post 96 zed without getting the error codes? can the sensors not be fooled with a resistor or anything?

don't say that, I've paid it now ha. nah I'm in cooldown period but whilst there is the potential to save I accept that whilst I'm now 23, I'm still young and with 1 years no claims, and a accident prior to that there ain't a lot of people fighting for my business lol so daft prices and been unable to quote me gets tiresome after a while, in my eyes the deal I've got is fantastic :)

you might be right bud, she isn't a track queen so for the sake of a few kg it might be an hefty compromise. I might save a stick with some Bride GIAS as I'd originally intended :)

Cheers bud. Erm in all honesty I'd forgot about it. I'd really like to go, never been before and the impression I'm getting off the forum is that it should be quite busy. I'll have a word with a few guys around here, see who I can bully into convoying and will hopefully get down, is any particular day best or are ou going or the weekend?

Bypassing the PRVR system and Removing the solenoid. Following on from step 9 rather than connecting the silicon tube from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to the PRVR solenoid you can connect it directly to the manifold. This can be seen in the pictures below. Doing so will make the solenoid itself redundant and it is straight forward to remove this and the extra hoses. 1. undo the bolt for retaining bracket 2. disconnect the harness from the solenoid. This will not throw up any error codes on your ecu and the cable is ok to be left free. 3. connect the silicon hose from the FPR to the hardpipe on the plenum. 4. remove the extra hoses, the one from the FPR will thread straight out and one disappears off to behind the wheel. this ones in a little tighter but a bit of pressure and it will come free. Finally just admire the handy work :) and all the excess you've removed from the car:

The following picture also covers points 7. and 8. 7. Position the two P-clips over the hoses with the openings facing each other and secure these together onto the plenum using the screw saved in step 5. 8. Fit the hose separator (you may want to fit this lower down the lines and closer the fuel filter as I had to allow for the strut brace) 9. fit the vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator to the prvr solenoid. you also have the option to bypass this prvr system by connecting this hose directly to the manifold which i shall show next. and thats your fuel lines fitted, I then chose to disconnect the PRVR system and remove most of it. The cannister itself is located behind the wing so I've left that for now but if its something you wanted to do, then Robo's site goes into far more detail here: http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/138229.html

A quick guide for anyone looking to fit stainless steel fuel lines, its a nice easy job but I couldn't see a guide elsewhere. Also for anyone looking to get a set, if your anything like myself I always like to see whats involved before I buy something. Engine bay before: 1. First things first, start by removing the following fuse from the small fuse box located by the brake master cylinder: 2. No picture need here, open the petrol cap to release preasure from the system then turn the engine over a few seconds to remove fuel from the lines. 3. Remove the throttle cable cover. Four screws hold this in place, the final one is at the rear of the cover (forgot to photo this with the strut brace up) 4. Remove the fuel hoses. I found it easiest to cut them with a stanley knife. 5. Remove the fuel rail, this is secured by two 10mm bolts. Remove these and disconnect the teo vacuum hoses. You will also want to save one bolt for use later on. 6. Connect the fuel hoses as shown & tighten the hose clips securely.

hi, just looking at different seats for the zed and would love buckets but i need rear access. has anyone used tilt brackets like these; http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Performance/Seats_Accessories/Seat_Mounting_Frames/Sparco_Tilt_Forward_Bracket/2012/0/17181 if so how are they do they still allow you to get rear access, all be it massively restricted and inconvenient?

would be great to see, that red car is one of my favorite zeds, if its something your think of these two albums might help too (don't know if you need a flikr account to view): http://www.flickr.com/photos/stoicescu/sets/72157620079225799/with/3649090433/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/stoicescu/sets/72157606899632538/with/3650724463/

cool, i'll have a look, ultimately i'm not paying anything so i've got no grounds to complain ha

whats quality like, is it better the screenshots because i'm a funny sod and I'll be honest, to me they look awful ha :laugh: (again not to be a nob, im just one of those people...)