MasterCookieman

It wasn't an overheating issue. The reason for the new head gasket was that years back now, I changed the knock sensor. Long story short when I did it, the timing belt slipped, despite everyone telling me to check it, I was adamant it hadn't moved (as didn't know the cams were 'spring-loaded' at the time). Of course, it had moved, and when I turned the engine over, I broke off a couple valves. I got two used cylinder heads from a member here, cleaned them up and bolted them on with new gaskets. As for injectors, I've pulled off the CAS and checked I could hear each injector clicking, all seemed well. Unless they can click and not inject fuel? I spent a lot of time on the mechanical timing, following guides, making sure cylinder 1 was at TDC and I did count the teeth. I had considered the timing , I’ve even thought about doing it again, but I really did make sure it was perfect. I do have an air compressor, and had started looking into the leak down test, it should be fairly easy to do, I think. I’m fairly certain the injectors are connected in the correct order, I went back and checked old photos, but also the loom had maintained its shape (like a large stiff claw over the engine), so everything was still in the same position as it was when removed pretty much. I suppose it is still possible I could have connected them wrongly, but unlikely, though still, possible… lol I’ll see if I can get hold of another tester, I’m guessing the one I have is a cheap thing, but I don’t really know, it’s been around for years and never been used, until now.

So, I finally made time to spend on my Zed. The accessory relay was to blame, I had a spare, and replacing it sorted all the electrical issues with the left pod, mirrors etc. Happy days! I had come across a long-lost spark tester and compression tester, as expected though the spark tester wasn’t long enough. I moved onto the compression tester, expecting all to be generally ok, these are the results, they were not ok – Dry Test Cylinder 1 5.5 bar, 80 psi Cylinder 2 3.5 bar, 50 psi Cylinder 3 5.5 bar, 80 psi Cylinder 4 2.0 bar, 30 psi Cylinder 5 5 bar, 70 psi Cylinder 6 3.5 bar, 50 psi Wet Test Cylinder 1 5.5 bar, 80 psi Cylinder 2 5 bar, 75 psi Cylinder 3 5 bar, 75 psi Cylinder 4 5 bar, 75 psi Cylinder 5 7.5 bar, 105 psi Cylinder 6 5 bar, 75 psi It’s pretty disastrous, not at all what I was expecting, but it explains why the engine wont run. I just wondered what you all thought of these results? My understanding is it points to piston rings….even though the car used to run and drive, but has been standing for years, only turned over occasionally. It should be noted that I just fitted new cylinder heads, with new gaskets. The heads were in need of a major clean when I got them, and I scrubbed them well. When I fitted them, I used the correct torque, and bolting method. My initial thoughts was that the cylinder head gaskets aren’t sealed properly, but they must be.

Just thought I’d write a quick update. I’m 99% certain that all the injectors are connected in the correct order. I did a basic visual check of all wiring etc from old photographs, taken specifically for this purpose. Everything is as it should be as far as I can see, the only exception is the two vacant O2 sensor connections. I had considered buying some LEDs and pushing these into the injector connectors, hopefully to see when each one is firing…that’s just a thought I’m pondering, not sure if it would work - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-Miniature-3mm-6V-12V-24V-Lamp-Light-Bulb-Edison-Incandescent-Filament-Rice/174204301531?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Df6191fdf4861483c856d9e69ef1d1e42%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D302546163435%26itm%3D174204301531%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV1Filter%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 I’ve decided I’m going to get one of these to confirm that I am getting spark – https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-77074-Spark-Extension-Tester/dp/B003AMXBM4/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=spark+modern+engine&qid=1592255088&quartzVehicle=138-258&replacementKeywords=modern+engine&sr=8-6 I went through the fuses, pulled them all one by one, and to my excitement I found a 15A blown in the footwell. I thought this has to be the cause or some issue, likely the left pod. However it turned out to be for HICAS/EPS, which I don’t have. So, odd why there was a fuse in there at all, even odder that it was blown. I replaced it anyway, and it made no difference to anything sadly.. I checked for a 12v supply at the left pod, but nothing.. Then I found this - https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/topic/110901-pod-dead/ which details my problem exactly. So now I’m on a mission to check for a dead accessory relay. I have a good feeling that this will sort the pod issue. I now think the pod and engine issues are unrelated, which if true is good. Didn’t get time to look at the PTU at all, as had to go spend one whole hour waiting at the tip to get rid of my old bathroom sink and radiator…

Thanks for your responses. Fuses - I hadn't even really considered them if I'm honest, but yes, I can check these out. I think I figured they were fine in the past, so should still be fine, but something could have easily blown. I will check the injector connections again, I'm sure they're in the right order, but assuming the timing is all correct, then if they're in the wrong order this would cause fuel to be injected into the wrong cylinder at the wrong time. I was actually more concerned that the spade connectors were the wrong way round, as this is what I'm dealing with - I do wonder what happened in the past for someone to do this. As for the pod issue, I think I'll check this along with the fuses, see if it's something simple, it's just weird that it's totally dead when nothing inside the car has been touched, other than the ECU to check codes. I have a series 1 PTU, and I had considered this as a potential fault. However, the engine did use to run, so again, although something I've considered, nothing (as far as I'm aware) has changed. It is something I'll keep in mind and try to test. Cheers, I'll keep you posted. Hopefully I can get outside if it ever stops raining...

First off sorry for the massive post, it’s been years since I last posted anything, so wanted to be thorough, but it also helped me remind myself of what I've done to date. The weather is improving and I’m hoping for some help to finally get my Zed running. To quickly recap, the best I can from memory – after discovery of serious rot (around 2013 I think), I set about rebuilding my Zed, using a donor. I painted my car myself, and it looked amazing, but a couple months later the paint began crazing and cracking. To this day I still don’t know why this happened. About two years had passed now, I just wanted to get the car running properly so it was driveable, I’d deal with the ruined paint another time. The engine did run, but badly, even though it used to run fine. Something must have been disrupted during the transplant from one car to another, the only change was removing the EGR valve, changing the clutch, and replacing the sump. Codes pointed to the knock sensor. To replace the knock sensor, I removed the upper and lower intake. Long story short, little did I know the timing belt had now slipped, despite being warned to check the timing; I was sure it was fine, but of course when I finally started the engine, I broke a couple valves off. It was not a good day but my own stupid fault. Ruined paint, broken engine…I considered giving up. However, I looked through photos and remembered all the good I’d done so far, and the money I’d spent. So, in 2017 (ish) I got two good used cylinder heads from a member. I give these a seriously good cleaning, along with the lower intake and the block too. It was around about now I saw a house and put an offer forward which was accepted. I suddenly had to divert all my efforts into getting my flat in a condition to sell. So my Zed was put on hold. Fast forward to 2019. Since moving into the house, all spare time and money pretty much went into sprucing it up (I’m currently ripping out the horrible old bathroom). However, I finally made time to start putting my engine back together. I did the following, pretty much in this order - At some point I bought some stainless headers from the U.S, I don’t even remember when this happened. My car is an NA, so no turbo plumbing means they do fit, but it is tight, but haven’t managed to fit O2 sensors, so relying on the ECU to use defaults. I bolted the headers onto the ‘refurbed’ cylinder heads, then I fitted the original CAS and pulleys. I had bought a used plenum which had been cleaned throughout and sand blasted. I painted this. I did the plenum coolant bypass at this time too. I cleaned and swapped over my throttle bodies, and did the same with the ICV, with all new gaskets. I replaced all the PCV pipes with new ones, I also replaced the now very beaten and bent rear PCV hard pipe with a section of 10mm microbore heating pipe. A bit of a bodge I admit, but the original hard pipe was finished. I fitted the cylinder heads with new gaskets. Refitted the lower intake, with new gaskets. Fitted the spark plug plastic inserts and bolted on the new plenum. I probably attached the balance bar and fuel vacuum doo-dahs at this point too. Refitted the timing belt, following online guides, ensuring all was lines up perfectly, even to the number of notches between pulleys. Turned engine over my hand multiple times and am very happy this is perfect. Connected injectors wiring. Refitted all spark plugs that were new before I started the rebuild. Bolted in coil packs and connected the plugs. Refitted all the pulleys, replaced thrermostat, water pipes etc, and added coolant. Connected remaining electrical connectors – TPS, CAS, injectors, PTU, MAF, coolant sensors etc. Refitted air intakes etc. Checked oil. Connected freshly charged battery. I was excited, but anxious as I sat ready to turn the key…but when I did unfortunately my Zed didn’t start. The engine turned over fine, but nothing more, didn’t try to fire up, simply turned over. I checked all of the connections and pipes, all is fine. So, I checked that the fuel pump was working by pulling off the filter pipe in the engine bay and on turning over, it filled a glass jar full of fuel, so it’s pumping fine. Winter came and that was it for 2019. Present day - In 2020 I (finally managed) to pull off the CAS and manually turned it, so I could test the injectors. I could hear them clicking, so I assume the fuel is getting into the cylinders. I haven’t reinstalled the CAS, but had painted it, so know where it was located before I removed it. So, next is to check for spark. I plan to check the PTU, but haven’t found any very helpful guides for this. I found something that simply suggested checking the output voltage for 12v, with a multimeter. I’ll give this a shot, but when I came to put the coils back in I discovered I had more than 6, and I couldn’t identify which had been installed originally. So it’s possible there’s a dodgy coil pack (or more than one) in there, but I’d expect the car to try and start, stutter, shake, something…rather than just turn over. I’m sure I can test the coil packs somehow, but haven’t looked into this yet. To check for spark is there any reason this won’t work - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633982-Ignition-Spark-Tester/dp/B00157O4YK/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=coil+tester&qid=1591189600&sr=8-7 If I can confirm I have spark and fuel, then next would be a compression tester I guess? A mechanic that lives across the road who heard me attempting to start the engine; suggested it sounded as is the timing was off, it was missing. I know mechanical timing is correct, so I considered that could the CAS (electrical timing) be out. However, until recently when testing the injectors, the CAS has never been touched. When transplanting it, it was done on the bracket, the position remains the same, so it should be fine, right? Although, it IS now connected to a different cam, so would this make a difference… If I wanted to check the timing with a timing light how do I do it when the engine doesn’t run? I’m looking for any help anyone can offer in diagnosing my problem, basically, what would you be doing yourself if in my position? I am concerned about spending any more money testing things now, or replacing suspect faulty parts. I’ve reached a point where I’m questioning where it ends, when I call it quits, I mean it’s been about 9, maybe 10 years since this all started. I’m not getting any younger (or thinner) and I have a whole house that I need to spend money on. That said, ignoring my failed paint job, I feel like I’m close to having a working car. I just want it to start and run, even if it runs badly at first, this should fire up my Zed motivation once again! Things to consider that I ponder at night – The TPS and ICV will likely need setting up, as they’ve been removed etc. Not sure if they’d stop the car from starting, but I don’t think they would. This was a job I had planned when I had the car up and running. For no good reason, the left pod controls are dead, no display, nothing. I realise this probably isn’t related, but nothing has changed inside the car for years, and the all electrics worked fine…so a bit strange for it just to stop working. I had considered that maybe there was an electrical fault caused by me pulling the loom around in the engine bay. From memory though, the internal loom is completely separate from the engine loom, so it’s probably an unrelated problem. I’ve never had injector plugs on my loom, at some point someone has cut these off and used crimped spade connectors. Nasty I know. When I took these off I made every effort to ensure I was putting these back the same way, as usual taking plenty of photos, but this is another thing that I ponder. Some photos of some of the above - https://ibb.co/SmVkLD0 https://ibb.co/cwgFqz2 https://ibb.co/C6p5mBn https://ibb.co/QnNz3sL https://ibb.co/wzFpdjg https://ibb.co/8MJyKYw https://ibb.co/drNVWks https://ibb.co/vc2K5qF https://ibb.co/8DWWW7R https://ibb.co/zZH4sT4 https://ibb.co/1spCjHt https://ibb.co/pLBsC6K

Just after an O2 sensor (known working of course). Nearside if it makes a difference, don't think it does. Replacing my headers and swapping O2 sensors, but one doesn't want to come out and tired of fighting with it. There's one on Ebay, but hoping I can get a better price than that, shipped to Newcastle. Cheers

Cheers, I saw that afterwards and it seemed like the better option. There's no difference gasket wise with TT gaskets? I've messaged MJP (or at least I think I have, so many different sites!) for a price, but I'm very tempted to go with the one above. Cheers!

Import duty is included in the price, as is shipping. So just under £65 all in. Customs could still decide to do their thing I suppose. Surely Nissan OEM, or even the traders will be way more expensive? Really, all I actually want (I think!) is the cam cover gaskets and the head gaskets (and maybe the moon seals), but alone these have been working out the price of the set.

Hey, So, I'll be changing my heads and obviously the gaskets, I'm looking at this gasket kit from the US, seems like a good deal to me - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fit-Infiniti-Nissan-Non-Turbo-3-0L-VG30DE-Full-Gasket-Set-/360880628027?hash=item540629613b:g:6psAAOSw14xWJqp1 Can anything think of anything else I might need? I know there's half moon seals at the back of the cams, but can't see these in the set, do I re-use these or do I need new ones? Other than the water pump gasket (and maybe sump seals?) in this photo, I'm not sure what the other gaskets are, but guessing it will make sense when I pull the heads - Cheers

Cheers, yeah, good point. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I did mine some years back, I got a Blue Print kit from a local auto place, think it was about £200, maybe a little less.

Ok, looks like I might be importing these then, lol Can anyone tell me if these will fit, I don't see why they wouldn't?

Hey, Can anyone tell me if there's a place in the uk where I can get similar, at around the same price? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Nissan-300ZX-1990-1996-Z32-3-0L-V6-VG30DE-Non-Turbo-Stainless-Steel-Headers-/222173378487?epid=1175594876&hash=item33ba90b7b7:g:Sc4AAOSwHHFZAOM- Also, if I did import these, is there anything I need to consider - US / UK compatibility? Cheers!

Hi, I'm looking for a pair of cylinder heads, intact with working valves, basically ready to swap out my current heads. I don't know if TT and NA are different, but I have an NA. I'll need them shipped to Newcastle. Cheers!

Hey, I'll admit I didn't have the lower timing belt cover off at this point, so hadn't seen the tensioner, but the belt was tight, and the intake / exhaust pulleys were all still aligned. When I removed the lower intake the belt didn't move, I'm guessing it should have now, as the tensioner should have adjusted. I don't think it did, it cant have, nothing moved. I marked the belt to be on the safe side (and that turned out well...) so knew there had been no movement the next day. Everything indicated that there had been no movement, so I bolted the lower intake manifold back into position, and all seemed fine, everything was still aligned and I was happy. I hadn't seen the crank at this point admittedly, but I figured if all was tight and aligned up top, then all has to be good down below. Clearly I shouldn't have taken that risk. When I got the shield off today the tensioner gap was non existent, I understand now that it should be 4mm. This was post presumed slippage however, so the damage was already done. The timing belt is perfectly aligned everywhere (not that it matters now), I started with the dotted line on the left and I worked around all the pulleys, using bull-dog clips to keep the belt in position, and finally did the crank, which did need rotating a little. I got the belt onto the tensioner, and it was all back in place, I then levered the tensioner forward, tightened the bolts up, all looked good, although the tensioner will need adjusting back to 4mm. I'd REALLY hoped that once everything was aligned again, that with some luck, the engine would rotate fine and all would be well. Unfortunately I had no luck, and probably deserve this.

Hey, are the heads just heads or with valves and so on? If they have valves in them then I'd just need to swap heads over, unless I've killed a piston of course. I'm still really annoyed at myself, even though there was nothing obvious wrong I should have tripled checked everything.

I've been trying to work that one out all day, but it must be my fault after reinstalling the lower intake... but then it was all lined up... It was fine... I'm guessing the belt was too slack, then the engine has turned over a couple times; then it's slipped... The engine turned over fine when I tried to start it, and as I had just changed the fuel lines and filter I was expecting it to take a few seconds for the fuel to fill the fuel rail etc, but after about 2 seconds there was a sort of 'thunk' noise, and the starter jammed. It felt like the whole engine had seized (well it had), which I quickly worked out was probably timing belt related.

Thanks everyone, finally got the pulley off today using the technique advised. :thumbup: However, I think I've killed my engine... I hadn't explained this earlier, as I hoped it wasn't so, but somehow, I'm not even totally sure how...the timing belt slipped and I think I've bent some valves. In a nutshell, it was after I replaced the lower intake, I checked all was ok...but when I started the engine there was a horrific noise. I feared the worse but hoped it wasn't so.... Looking at the engine; the left intake pulley had rotated to the right. Hoping that I was due some actual luck for once I removed the timing belt; then lined everything up properly, and refitted. However, the engine wont rotate fully using the crank bolt, so I think the pistons are hitting protruding bent valves, that my theory anyway. As you can imagine I was was calling myself all kinds of things and was seriously p***ed off. Then forgetting my phone (3 months old) was in my pocked I got on the ground, and of course it fell out and now that's shattered. This was all especially sickening as this week was meant to be the week I FINALLY got an MOT, and my Zed roadworthy. I'm really not sure where to go from here...I'm trying to motivate myself to pull the heads. Valves seem to be around £6 each, but lets face it there's 24 of them. 6x24=£144 +gaskets £100 (estimate) = £244. I haven't really looked into it yet, I haven't pulled cylinder heads before, so it would all be new. It's the time too, all I seem to do now is Zed stuff every weekend...but I was nearly there, it was going to be worth it! If my paint job wasn't a mess then I might be more motivated, but even if I replaced the valves, got the car through the MOT; I'm still faced with a paint job, or perhaps vinyl... I'm pondering if it's finally time to call it a day, or perhaps let someone else take on my project, or perhaps strip the parts (which are all good) and look for another NA. Or I could could just do a Bobby Ewing, get out the shower and go buy a 350Z.

Excellent! Thanks! I'm glad it's not just me...sometimes it feels like it! I have everything I need, hopefully tomorrow will go with a breeze! Still slightly concerned about whacking it with a hammer, but it it works... So that little wedge is called a woodruff key, interesting. I'll let you know how I get on. :)

Ok, I can try that tomorrow, I'll take my big hammer! :shifty:

If you mean whack it with a hammer (via a chock of wood), then yes, I have whacked it good!

Hey, So after spending most of the day trying to get my crank pulley off, I have failed. Looking at posts, videos etc, others still have painted black pulleys, mine isn't...so I have a feeling rust might be the issue - That bolt isn't the original, I was just using it temporarily for the puller, as couldn't use the puller with the original bolt, even with the radiator out. The puller I was using was a massive hydraulic thing that I had to hire from a lawnmower place, as believe it or not, non of the local auto supply shops had anything bigger than a 100mm puller... So the end of the puller may have been too wide, not sure. On the way home I was able to pick up a set or 'normal' pullers, so my mission continues tomorrow. I soaked it in WD40 before I left. The pulley has moved forward, but I was expecting a crack, I'm concerned I'm actually damaging something. Anyway, any tips would be great. :)

Hey, This is a vacuum hard pipe (with hoses) from the left side of the engine (from the front). I've replace the whole section with one piece of silicone hose. Is this ok, is there a specific reason for the hard pipe, a single piece of hose isn't going to collapse or anything is it?

Thanks for this. However the belt hasn't moved, and nothing has sprung, it remains the same as if I hadnt removed the tensioner. The belt is dipped at the top where the tensioner was, so once I'd replaced the knock sensor was just going to put the tensioner back. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to look at it further today, spend the time on the new plenum and cleaning/painting the throttle bodies. I'm wondering if I can loosen the clamps on the PCV hose, allowing the hard pipe to rotate upwards. I'm tempted to cut a slot in the timing belt backing shield, just enough to get the tensioner bolt on the front of the intake up and out, then maybe I can gently force the back out. I have a feeling I'm going to need to cut the bracket joining the PCV and coolant pipe first though.