Hollings

free running atm, however it seems to have some sort of feedback loop or something due to the speed varying under slight differences in load...also when at full lock it doesnt like it and blows fuses. i plan to set up a variable resistor switch to allow me to tweek it once ive sorted these teething problems out. - - - Updated - - -

Now for the rear...Which needs work and the geometry is WAY out so dont get jumping to any conclusions....Body Mech is going to be having a play with this!

PICS...yeah. This is my pair of spacer from Clarke motorsport which Lexx referred me to, Cheers bud! Mtech disk against the stock wheel.. Fitted.. With wheels on..random pics now

Well, a little update with the things i have achieved...unfortunately no pics atm. Battery in boot and all wired in. wired my Astra G PS pump in...IT WORKS :tt2: plumbed the pump in. assembled front and rear calipers.... Front calipers: Carbotech XP8 pads with Mtech 350mm Slotted and dimpled Disks. Rear: stock crap as i have no bias valve and no ABS, anything more and id probably lock up. Purchased and fitted my Federal 595RSR's fronts 245/35/18, Rear 285/30/18. The rears turned out to be a bit thinner than i thought so they have a bit of stretch which some people will dislike but they are there to stay. Bled all brakes with some DOT 5.1 Bled PS and blew a few fuses in the process haha.

ah thats a shame buddy. thanks for organizing it though, ill be interested if anything pops up again!

Why you taking yours off Dave?? In your opinion how much difference is here between the na and tt diffs??

No way really?? I just found out it was MWtech! That's unfortunate :( I have just purchased the ones you put forward anyway lexx, thanks!

I saw them but couldn't actually find a place which sell them at that price, I need them for this weekend as I've got lots to do on the car.

Just remember when removing your old ones they have a spacer on them... Don't dump it as the new joints don't come with them...I made this mistake!!

I need 25mm buddy, Thanks anyway

Also replaced mine with these, not too shabby.

Managed to get my last set from a guy who made them on the 350z forum for 70, tried searching for him to no avail.

Don't worry bud atleast I have a reputable brand who are able to send them asap,

just called them... £98 :( only a small increase but it all adds up... probably end up buying them anyway if no one has any lying around

Cheers alex, i think i had some of this guy previously. I did buy some from ebay but the seller isnt responding so im taking the ebay task force against them pahaha...probably going to lose my money too :( ill call him later, just wait a few hours to see if anyone has any used sets available

Firstly I'll apologise for putting this in the wrong section as I couldn't actually make a wanted thread from my phone, or at least didn't know how too.... I need a pair of 25mm spacers with bore size 66.1mm ASAP please good people! Thanks guys!

Yeah the stock cable doesn't haven any fusing on it anyway, it's just piece of mind really.

It's up to you buddy, either way the fuse will blow if you get a short to earth as the current draw is pretty huge. But obviously the closer to the actual cranking current you are the better. Also a 150A fuse could take more, say 170a albeit for a short amount of time (choice of fuse dependant) I'll be using 100A

Well stock there is no fuse between the battery and the starter.. As I found on my car anyway. You will pay a few quid for a high amp CB. I am looking at the inline fuses people use on audio systems. Honestly haven't looked much to see if you can get a high amp fuse but you prob can.

The battery cable essentially is the starter cable with other things being tapped off it. The less un-fused wire you have the better. I will be using a fuse around 100A which will sit next to the battery. You need some barrel/butt/inline crimps to connect the new battery cable to the old. Soldering isn't really an option. And some lurvley heat shrink. That cable is exactly what I've used. You should also think about hardwiring the fuel pump. Give that some research.

Minimum 4awg. I used a thick wall amp cable capable of a 170A working current....plenty. My setup will be a little different to yours but the starter cable is larger than 35mm(square) so I've had to go for a 50mm(square) crimp to join it all. My starter/alt cables are connected to a bulkhead post which is connected to the battery on the inside of the bulkhead post. One of these. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/230604795497?nav=SEARCH

i love a good man cave, and fruit pastilles...i must find a reason to go here! good on him too :chinese:

1. Draxan - 1x L man + 1x S woman . 2. Hub280ZX - 2 x L man + 2 x XL man. 3. iangreenfield 2 x 3xl man. 4. Hollings 1 x medium manly man!

This looks sweet bud! i didnt want to lower it of axle stands once i put mine back on as it might get dirty...then realize how gay that sounds haha

haha was looking forward to seeing that car. ...just found out i cant spectate anymore. i might try and get there for the sunday.