Stephen

dogs got four legs therefore only ran 1.5 miles on each pair of legs. thats your answer :/

i removed my front tints a few months back best thing i ever did :) looks better and the car is so much more drivable

anyone else cheers for that jaikai, gguess i just keep an eye on the top up for now

sure its steam? i get a little puff round here looks like ciggarete smoke, its actually the rocker covers driping oil down onto the turbos and manifolds. when i go for a longer drive theyre hot enough to burn it off instantly rather than just smolder, plus i think the metal expands and seals the seal tighter :) hope that helps. try seeing what if anything drips out the engine bay.

i fitted my new japspeed rad the other weekend and after its first two drives, ive noticed to issues. firstly i seem to loose about 1/4 of a litre of coolant both times, toppd it up the first time. :s can i assume that given that im not experiencing any drips.( i put a piece of noteboard paper under the car to check over night no green dots) that was both running and cold. can i assume that im not leaking? my thoerys are either : im still getting air out the system, ive only covered about 30 miles so far, with the temp set on max. : or that its over flowing into the emptied expansion bottle and not coming back. (i havent actually checked to see wether its gone green in there.) my other issue is i refitted the fan shroud ina short of fashion as it no longer fits, there are only two mounts on the japspeed. and its slightly wider so the shroud wont strecth across :( so it drops and hits the fan making a noise and melting the shroud and blades, not cool. what have others done about this?? do i even need it now ive got the bigger rad?

could alwsy instal an aftermarket revlimiter or fit a different chip.

there should be a rev limiter in built in the car most chips will raise that.

see i was thinking about this thread today and back to mikeys one about rpm. now these chips that allow you to rev that high without a rev limit is taht good, i dont think it is. peek torque and bhp would be reached at what 5.5k to 6k revs. so going into the 8s is not only dangerous to the internals of the engine its fairly pointless???

no idea what this was all about however ive had the car up to pressure and left it for three days to see any leaks, not so much as a drop. whoop.

ha now now bazza. dont go swearing at new people :P

one word money. the goveremnt wants us all to buy brand new cars to make money

if you cant remove the ignition key there is no point in even having the thing. personally im not a fan and niether will your insuarance company be. yes it good o let the engine cool down, but i think a far better way to achive that is to simply not drive teh thing over 2000 revs or boosting for the last few minutes of the drive.

now now lol what hasnt been asked was was it a standard clio? but i would also point out out that more than likly youve got boost leaks lol. anyways teh other part is what sorta speeds we talking a auto tt isnt very quick 0 to 40. 30 to a 100 is a whole different game.

Firstly, is this clean or dirty water? Half a meter is a reasonable depth, most submursible pumps could drain thst down to about an inch. feel free to pm me and send you my mob no. im a swimming pool engineer

Well I was doing up the upper water pipe last bolt rushing with the fading light,then I heard click. Dunno what it was the bolt is still tight. Have to run it up tomorrow see if leaks

Im guessing its ali... Has anyone ever removed one before. Got a funny feeling ive just cracked mine

Its ugly, and if he was hauling over 450 bhp why stick in the rb, which will cost loads to get himself to the same point. That cash would have easy paid to push the vg into even bigger figures

cheers for that, i guess i will just have to take it all apart and inspect it all. pretty sure its that top one though as i think i can see water dribblibing down from it and running over the lower one.

its cheaper than that to buy a set of aftermarket clear one staht dont look like someone left a chunk of carrot on the car.

thats not the end of the world its only 6 bolts... the other three joins seem to be working fine. ive use dteh product before and its been ok, but i do have to say im surprised by the consisancy of it, i expected a more sorta siliconey texture... this stuff was more like ketchup

right after changing the rad thermostat and the rubber front water pipes, ive worked the air out the system and run it upto pressure so far so good. except for one problem, i noticed a drip coming from the bottom of the engine, after some inspection, i came to the conclusion that the upper aluminium water pipe is leaking. where it meets the block, there wasnt a gasket in there so i didnt refit one.... is there suppose dto be? ive used a product called gas tite which was recommended to me fo rthe purpose, i think some of it came off in the process, i left it for about half hour before filling the system up. i did all the others the night before. some where ive cocked up, and obviously have to pop it back off. thats cool, it happens at least i checked and found it.... i just wanna make sure i dont reassemble to have the same problem. any advice please......:dots:

Tbh, very few, just look round the clubs. Most that change out the vg throw in a v8. The supra engine wouldnt be cheap, plus your changing the engine layout(v for straight) what you wasted doing all that would easy get you plenty of vg power, or zn unholy twin turbo v8 monster, no brainer really.

Its the same as the jap speed I think. If it is then yeah massive improvement over stock

So thats what that cubby hole was made for

Ouch she got some horses