Stephen

You going to wet sand it?

Like everything state side. http://www.wiringspecialties.com/wsprvgenwiha.html Obviously there's tax and shipping on top, just depends on what you deem worth it and how much you value your time.

What I'm saying is, a new complete loom is about £300 from wiring specialities. Which will replace the whole bay loom excluding the alternator harness as its separate. I assume your costing was just for the injector and coil pack connections? The trouble is they all suffer that's probably only half the connectors. I appricate your logic and I've considered it myself however by the time you've brought it all you might save yourself, £50? At which point for the hours it takes to remake the loom properly it's worth that for a professional job. Not trying to put your plan down just saying it's worth considering what the cost saving actually is.

Looks like prv and boost solenoid gaz, not sure what the third one is. I'd guess AIV but I thought there was only one solenoid.

It's a bit agricultural is stick. If you want to learn something then Tig is the one for fabrication work, needs clean surfaces though so not so much use on body work.

As Andrew says. Even Halfords should carry it. If your headed this way then hyphose at fleetsbridge will have it. They have virtually everything.

Ahh ok, I thought you were learning to apply it to something.

No it wasn't useful or constructed it was a bunch of winge.

The thread is pretty transparent if you read between the lines. "Turde niz" wasn't exactly subtle.

You may find that it's not finically worth while.

What you can tell from that is pretty limited. Your best of making some test pieces, butt welds etc then observing the opposing side and cutting it in half to see how the weld penetrated. What made you decide to learn stick?

It's pretty common mate. Obviously the heat all rises into that loom and bakes it. The connectors and cable get damaged. Where you move it the movement makes and breaks connections and shorts. The best solution is a new harness which will cost a fair few quid. If you have patience then you could obviously remove, test, repair. Long road that one though.

Quality unknown. Why do you feel you need adjustable lower arms? They tend to "wonder" out of alignment fairly regularly.

Trust me Jeff there is no ignorance here, I'm fully aware of the situation, as are many others. I appricate you feel the need to get your soap box out but you've made your point now and are now just repeating yourself. Without providing anything informative your not educating anyone, just slagging off a business or two. Like I say, I have no interest in these people, it effects me not but without information your at risk of looking like the bad guy yourself. As I said previously if there is an issue with said mapper then what is the issue or issues? I'm aware of certain customer service issues but not technical ones of any detail. Your statement is that he sells dreams of too much hp for stock engines and blows them up. To phrase that they way it's being put, if you run more than the standard 14psi that's good for about 340hp your 20+ yer old engine will melt. That is utter rubbish and akin to when people said "they were going fast so they crashed" a symptom or factor is described as a cause, without any information to credit the claim or even make any sense of it. So let's have some proper information or none. Have engines blown due to overly lean AFRs? Excessive cylinder temperatures? Excessive timing?

This is just getting silly. If you have a healthy engine with a good map there is no reason for failure even at 4,500 hp and there are many Z32 across the world running huge power without failure. A bad map will kill the best engine very quickly. Without anyone stating what is actually wrong with said mappers maps its just mud slinging and the mods should be stepping in on this. This thread is full of half stories, no actual Information it just slags people off. I have no care for the people being slagged off but it's just silly unless a proper discussion is had. Let's have some information or out our handbags away.

It's not banana'd :lol:

I think this is most likely as I have tow and caster adjustment available on mine. It's probably just never been set up properly on that parameter. Tow has been corrected but caster was neither measured nor adjusted.

No problems. Just obviously all this conversation about engine damaging power seems rather misleading and lacks any technical information.

Swage to wheel edge. Il have to re-measure, it was a few weeks back. The main issue, or rather what brought it to my attention was the gap from the tyre sidewall to the rear bumper tab. I want to increase the rear track and can't at present because it would likely kiss the tab on the passenger side, the drivers side is spacious.

Sorry missing word. "Still running in atm"

Sorry could you rephrase that?

Interesting stuff. Although it does seem to apply to production cars with solid bushes which ours don't at the rear. Be interesting to find out what tolerance there is between the stud and the solid bush.

I spose your right. I suppose the most accurate and proactive thing to do would be to get the caster measured and adjusted if required. At least that can be conclusively ruled out either way.

Nearly new and there solid aluminium units.

Does that not cause an issue as obviously camber will change with the wheel off when the cars in the air. Should the caster be unchanged throughout the travel?