Stephen

The steering is active, so it’s uses input from the speed sensor. If the speedometer fails to work it will stop the power assist steering. You car being an import will likely have a speed converter behind the dash, loose connection here on this circuit will be the cause. You tapping probably remade the connection. Also the speed sensor on the gearbox can pop out the end, be loose, simply slowly down and speeding back up it can kick back to life.

I feel like a blown headgasket is the go to diagnostic of these cars. I was told very much the same many years ago and it was a split water pipe and a dodgy MAF sensor. Took about 10 minutes for someone with knowledge to diagnose.

The best specialist in the country isn’t far from the places you’re taking. I also would assume that you must of paid more than tuppence for the car as they aren’t cheap these days. It’s got to be worth getting an expert to give it the once over. If it is dead, I recon he will even have a good contact for getting rid of that’s the case.

I didn’t do it but a local specialist did this week, cut out the rear portion of the sill where is corroded collecting cack as they do. Replaced the metal and re-shutz’d it. An oil change with a new Nissan oil filter. Straight through the MOT with no advisories. The sill is getting painted this week once the shultz has dried properly and then a good polish.

Dusted the zed off. Looking at some places to do a little work on the body before it goes up for sale as the garage is needed for my new toy.

Happy birthday Jim. Just seen the photos of Andrew’s car. You don’t look any bloody different since I last saw you! Been on the vampire blood!?

Happy birthday Richard! Hope you are keeping well.

Have you got the right one? The neutral switch and reverse switch are close together and look similar.

Quick turn around on that too. Looks great.

It seems the vary wildly. There’s some cars asking big numbers but whether they sell… an original U.K. manual seems to be the variant that people want to buy and holds value. Lwb auto NA imports the least value. Lwb manual TTs are pretty popular and command relatively strong money. The value does seem to have dropped a bit last few years. For appreciation, an R32/33 GTR would have been a better Nissan to buy.

None of these things make sense really. It’s about popularity and supply and demand. Objectively crap cars command higher values than good ones. Vauxhall Novas for example. Fords are popular anyway, so will be higher prices.

I wouldn’t before or near Xmas. People will not be buying and those that are buying, will often be bargain hunters assume it’s pressure sale. It’s a good time to buy, a bad time to sell.

I wouldn’t make any rash assumptions etc until you’ve driven it. Multiple weeks sat there and the current weather, it’s going to be filled with condensation.

On second look, the CAS does look normally positioned. I couldn’t see the right hand of the slot till I zoomed in.

Check the connections around the PTU and CAS, the boots on your PTU are damaged so it wouldn’t shock me if the pins were corroded etc. You’ve changed stuff around here so that would be my focus, especially the hot PTU description, did it come with an adapter harness? If I remember correctly it’s not a straight swap.

The CAS also looks like it’s slammed over, do you put back in the position it came out from?

Not a given but a start;

Blue Smoke, combusted oil.

Grey Smoke, Uncombusted oil (turbo rear seals)

White smoke, condensation/coolant.

Black smoke, over fueling.

Turbo smoke if it’s the classic rear seal failure these ones get, is a grey smoke that occurs on warm idle. Did you actually drive the car or just run it up?

Hi Dennis, sorry if this reads a little blunt. Go and google it and you’ll find lots of photos of how the body is constructed. It’s pretty much the same as any other Nissan model of that era. There’s plenty of videos of people cutting them open, apart, off etc especially on similar models like the S Chassis. At the end of the day you are the one spending the money and the one who has to sleep at night, so it’s best to do that research yourself rather than listen to one person on the internet.

Have you asked the owner for better photos? The one shown is a big blurry and doesn’t focus on the area that concerns you. If I was worried about that that’s exactly what I’d do, ask for more information. Maybe take those pictures to a body shop local to you and ask.

I have no idea about the car you are looking at, its price or anything the seller has to say about it. It is however a car that likely over 35 years old and has been half way to the moon. It’s incredible it’s still rolling let alone in good shape. It wouldn’t concern me but that’s me.

The front has a cross member, style arrangement that boots across the bottom between strut towers. The back is an actual sub frame. The body, those rails are structural but complex. It’s multiple layers of sheet material. I did have a google but couldn’t see what I was looking for, a cross sectional view of the body.

That’s the frame rail. Positioned about a foot in from the edge. The front third is a piece of sheet steel. It gets used as the jack point often. Looks like the rail has been nicked by a jack at some stage. Would not worry me at all tbh. Apart from I’d want to check that corrosion hadn’t occurred because of the steel being exposed.

Gosh haven’t seen one of those for a while.

22 hours ago, nickz32 said:

I had the same many moons back, ended up standing next to him as he went through the options on the machine, turned out he didn’t read the options properly and put it down as a post Aug 95 car rather than a pre Aug 95 car…. He wasn’t a fan of being corrected 😂

Do they ever? I really should have taken my car elsewhere this year.

Is that for JDM spec cars? Thought UK was different?

It may be worth sitting on it till spring if you can? The market for cars like these, which lets face it are toys really is poor at this time of year. You’ll probably get more money and messed around less…

Thanks guys.

NA and TT engines have the same crank so that should widen your search. Might be worth giving Jimmer at Powerzed a call as he may have one or know someone with one from a different engine build that was unrequired etc. At least you’ll know that it’s a part within spec as well.

I was about to ask what was wrong with it when I quickly looked at the photos on my phone, then zoomed in. Looks like it’s been stored in the sea!

I’ve saved your number.