WillyEd

attaching the image might help:

Just scanned my dyno chart, but got a few answers to the questions first: JeffTT: Problem was with SE chip fuel map. Its massively over fuelling between 2000 and 5000rpm. Had to cut down the fuel 18% in one place!! Senna: LOL :D Warren: I've got an ACT clutch which has gone 3500 miles. With regards to the torque figure. I didn't get one, perhaps I should have asked for one (a print out that is). I'll get one next time I'm down there, and I've bought and installed a boost controller. First run is in red, second in green, etc The "50" - is the amount of horsepower that the RR operator thought I'd be loosing in the transmission "349" is one power figure before altering the spark plug gap (was 1.2mm - changed to .9mm). "354" was the power of my last run. The dotted hand drawn line is what Ray thought I'd expect to see if the clutch wasn't slipping. The up and down bit at the lower end of the graph, is where Ray was going through the gears to get to fourth. What do you reckon Warren, should I be producing more power with 555's and hybrid turbos @ 16psi?

Had my first ever rolling road session on Wednesday in the Zed. The primary reason for this was to sort my fuelling problem out, which has now been done and doesn't leave the back of my car black! Anyway, managed 359 hp at the rear wheels, anybody want to have a guess as to what that might be at the crank? RR operator seemed to think i'd be loosing 50hp through the box etc, but he's not too familiar with Z trannys. Another problem that was identified was clutch slip between 5000 and 6000 rpm (area of peak torque). I have an ACT with the modified organic street disc in it. Anyone reckon I'll cure the clutch slip with a paddle disc? Or is it gonna have to be stronger pressure plate? (I've checked the peddle position, and i'm not pressurising the slave cylinder at all when foot is off). I'll post a piccy of my power curve in a minute - when I figure out how to use my girlfriends scanner. [Ed:] p.s. I'm running 16psi on turbo technics stage ii's with Nismo 555 injectors, etc, etc...

USB 2.0 surely after fitting an SE chip:) he he

Does my Uk 1991 have OBDII? I'm guessing it doesn't... .. in which case what interface standard is used by the DDL port? Is it 160 baud ALDL for example? Just wondering, cos I want to make an RS232 adapter for it. Similar I suppose to what Lymon is selling. (Don't worry mate - I'm not intending to even try and make another ConZult!)

Bit boring but.... http://www.activeautowerke.com/software/cust-testamonials_HFM.asp

Nice one Smithy - can't wait for the real thing on my car!!

bah!...humbug

Mark, Thought I'd come to your rescue here to say that mine have started going too (started in the last year). My brothers Prelude has it much much worse though. Reckon, it's time to buy some new lights - 99 spec all the way I reckon!

O yeah baby! "YES" ---> hand demonically reaching for the wallet now....

So one option is to remove them completely. ....This what I done, not too much grief - but then I did have the rad and condensor out at the time Another one is to block the vacuum feed of the stock rec.valves? Is that the small metal pipe of the stock rec.valves that the vacuum goes in? ....Yep. Which HKS you have? The Super Sequential or the Sequential ones? I have the Super sequencial BOV's (2 stage valve). Big n shiney polished aluminium. Cheers

I believe the HKS BOV's (which I have too) have no upper rating - since they're better than what any turbo will push out. i.e. 50psi+ I'm running 16psi - no probs. I reckon you're are fine, and the problem lies with the standard valves.... (padding Jeff's thoughts out here..) See, with the standard recircs in place, i believe the boost might be opening the valves - since you've got no boost being fed down the vacuum line (when on boost obviously) - which would normally equalise the pressure and stop them from opening. Try plugging the vacuum feed instead - bit of tube with a screw in the top. Hmm..... good luck

I got a username and password within a minute of sending. havent installed the application yet thou. Si.

...alternatively - remove the spark plugs - and turn the engine over with the ignition unti you see the oil pressure gauge move. Pop your plugs back in and off go. (Don't forgoet to remove your fuel pump relay first - so you don't flood your engine).

Knock sensor is detecting detonation by the sounds of things. Not sure what to check really - although if you're getting ecu code 34 then probably a dodgy knock sensor. If you get 55 then could a fueling problem brought on by crappy petrol etc. HTH Simon

Hola Amigos y Amigas!