vodkashots

looking very good there matey. loving the plenum shine, you did that your self as well didnt you?

happy birthday dave, hope you have a good one.

welcome aboard matey, get some photos up though, its the law :lol:

Glad you got it running right matey, now i need to get my number 6 cylinder firing lol

its currently an AUTO but going to manual, auto box only has 2 gears, second and reverse lol

cylinder 6 is quite low, but so is 1 and 4, so want to get the cylinders firing first. also get it so its not causing Det, then check the timing belt, if its out it could be the cause of low compression on the cylinders.

Could be a sign of the PTU giving up, S2 ptu is a good preventative upgrade.

There is a After market one in place, i take it the ECU reads the sender from that cable then. then relays it to the dash?

Yeah sorry smithy, it is DTA as you quite rightly point out.

Id start with the area's you just worked on, i had the same problem last year, due to changing the PTU for another, found that i just couldnt get the car started, swapped it back for the one that was on it, it ran but was lumpy as hell and misfired. Take the connectors off the PTU, give um a good clean up and refit. considering you say it was running fine before that, that would be my first port of call, my second would be the maf again.

Right, finally got some diagnostic software running on the Zed. Using Scan tech nissan, i ran a cylinder test, when it shut off cylinder six there was no noticeable difference, ive got some spare coil packs so when the weather clears a bit, ill try one of them to see if it sorts out the problem. wiring loom is new so don't have to worry about any corrosion on that side of things. But it does still have a S1 PTU As for the timing issue, i set the timing back to 15 BTDC, with a noticeable change in idle revs, they dropped to around 650 and the idle seemed rougher, which leads me to believe that the ECU has advanced the timing 10 degrees to compensate for the engine not running correctly, clearing the fault codes, it idled with out producing the code 34 det problem, yet once rev'ed it, it show's up, most likely due to cylinder 6 not firing. so for now ive put the timing back to 25 degrees, until i can get cylinder 6 firing again. Now, had a look under the car and noticed i have a connection hanging down, that has a rubber boot around it like it needs to go through the body work, or connected to something that should enclose the connection. its a black plug with just a wire going to it, and the cable color is yellow. (see attached picture) now with out lifting the car up, i cant quite make out where this cable should be going, but i seem to recall seeing it at some point, i have a feeling its for the A/C pump that is no longer on the car. but cant be too certain.

Sexy and love um best small Honda made I think, but that's just me

This is why I said not the del sol version, the mk1 is a 4 seater Hun.

If you want a true pocket rocket that's a bit retro and you can find one that isn't modified, have a look for the Honda CRX and not the del sol version.

I thought it was called "manboob-I-tus"

I had a pug 406 2l turbo exec, and although it was nice it was also an annoying rare version that pug them selves didn't stock parts for. Though never had a problem with it in the whole 2 years of ownership, but getting an exhaust for it was a pain in the ass

I have breasts too, but I do IT, maybe I'm just strange

No it's not, it's french :lol: You could be driving a rust bucket and it would still be better than a French car :lol: (naa french ain't THAT bad)

Different connectors iirc, I think your safe to change them up to S4 then it's plug change as the S4 tt's don't have the boost gauge

If you want a French car with style get the pug 306 vert, just make sure the roof works how it should as they can be a git to track down the problem (thought most of the time it's the selonoid in the boot that's fubard)

I can't stand the Clio, very plasticky very annoying very french, though easy to work on

Clear your temp folder, or run ccleaner clear all that crap out of windows that's hogginh everything

the spigot bearing is a small copper type washer, not sure on the exact name of the auto equivalent, but its a mahoosive looking thing and a pain in the ass to get out, but you will need the auto version if your putting a auto box on matey.

well, when i did my engine change on the N/A, i took the gearbox off first, and then took the engine out the top, once it was out, got the new engine and lowered it in, got it on the engine mount holes, and did them up, left everything unplugged on the engine, while i refitted the gearbox, had to get a mate to help put the gearbox on the jack, but once its on, takes two people to steady it, and another to push on the engine so that it leans towards the bulk head to get the angle on it to get the gear box on. http://s826.photobucket.com/albums/zz183/edwards1903/?action=view&current=silverzedvid.mp4 this is it after id sold it, with the new engine in, still sounded fecking awesome. Only help i had changing that, was JamieTT knocking my auto spigot bearing out, and getting the gear box back onto the engine, everything else i did my self.

to get box and engine out together, you need to drop the front sub frame, and have plenty of room to angle it, which i wont be able to do, so gearbox will have to come out separate to the engine, but then saying that, its only 8 bolts holding the gearbox to the engine, and 6 bolts, gear selector / and wiring + prop holding the gearbox to the car, don't forget the starter motor lol