vodkashots

Steve, is there a way to contact you matey.

The Clutch bearing still hits the clutching housing forks, thus will still rotate, i have the same noise. which i shouldn't have in all honesty having had the gearbox off 3 times so far and replaced the fork and bearings once in all that. Its just a zed thing. mine could be down to the pivot ball (cant remember its proper name) wearing, im struggling to get the car into 3rd and 4th with out grinding sometimes. im putting this down to as i said before, the wear on that pivot ball for the clutch fork which means my fork sits slightly (and i mean ever so slightly) further back into the gearbox. hence why i get the rattle and gear selection issue. first takes a bit of convincing as well, but that doesnt grind the syncros.

check the condition of the loom to the injectors, my guess is the wires have deteriorated. i doubt the injectors are going to fail on a spark plug change, but the wires and connectors on the loom will be brittle by now if its not a new loom. and changing spark plugs could of knocked the cable, so before you think its a dead injector, check the harness.

Yep timing is all good now and the cam cover is back on as well lol Just need to figure out if i have indeed got a VAC leak or one of my injectors either needs cleaning or replacing. one of the 3

Welcome to the forum, are you the guy who wanted to buy a N/A? if so im the dude who went to get his black 300zx TT.

Same, well not the same situation, but i needed another engine in the car pronto as it was costing me cash to have it sat on a public road, with out it being drivable. so took the option to go for the quick fix, in order to do the long fix. didnt want to rush building an engine as thats when mistakes are made, at least at the moment, i can drive the car, plus will have the time to research the engine build properly and get the parts for it.

It was mapped by Noz last year, should be a stock bottom end on the engine ive just taken out. I have 2 blocks here, well 2 VG30DETT's in the garden, one is on an engine stand with a cover over it, the other is currently sinking into the ground with a cover over it, that i need to put on a pallet. one was a blown head gasket, the other cylinder 6 piston ring. but other wise good. i will be rebuilding one though, the engine ive just put in, just has to last till ive finally got my wiesco pistons and eagle conrods in and rebuilt it properly. will be getting the parts and then most likely shipping it to jimmer to sort out. Take it you need a block you dont have to do much to though?

on the engine i just removed? Piston ring on cylinder 6, kept throwing oil into the upper intake from the cylinder. I changed over my injectors and turbos. to the new engine. then turned the boost down as i know its a stock bottom end lol

Just a quick update, after changing the PCV valves from the very loose ones, to some with some resistance, and cleaning the compressor pipe work of excess old oil from the last engine, so far the zed has gone the whole weekend driving back and forth from JAE with no smoke. so i think at present it might be slightly safe to say (hopefully with out jinxing anything) that it was just burning oil off the compressor pipes once they had finally come up to temps (my second lower set of hard pipes had a large chunk of old oil ill missed, think i cleaned the same pipe twice lol )

Big internet man hugs bud :(

the TT flywheel will be larger, its not the starter motor that's the issue, its the bell housing on the gearbox, the starter motor is the same regardless of NA or TT, you will need to use a spacer of some sort to bring the starter motor away from the flywheel where the starter usually mounts too the bell housing at, someone should have some spacer info for you as i dont know that one. - - - Updated - - - Email them first to see if they do international shipping. http://www.zspeedperformance.com/Ramey-Z-NA-TT-Swap-Starter-Spacer-90-96-Z32-Ramey2.htm

TT Clutch and Brake Pedal - Wont make a difference as you have the master and slave clinders to match TT Clutch Master Cylinder - wont make a difference as you have the brake pedal to match. TT Clutch Slave Cylinder - wont make a difference as you have the master and brake pedal to match TT Alternator to Transmission harness - wont make a difference, the harness will still be using the same switches. (reverse lights, speed sensor ect) TT Shifter Bar - Wont make a difference as the mounting points are the same You will how ever need a TT balance bar, or a way to T into the large vac port on the top plenum just behind the balance bar so you can get the benefit of vac assisted clutch and a one way check valve for the clutch vac pipe work. .

My zed made it's longest road trip since putting the new engine in and it didn't smoke thank god, so at the moment hoping it was just burning excess crap out of the pipe works, only time will tell on that one though

Not a fan of black wheels either, just makes it look like you lost your hubcaps and couldn't be bothered to replace them and are proud rocking the steelies, i do like that shadow chrome, or gun metal Gray But thats if you want to go with a darker colour to compliment the red.