toftdale

Hi Guys My Z originally had Koni Shocks with Eibach lowering springs. Then when i had a Z-Centre body kit fitted Strosec front bumper and wide arches the front bumper was too low. So decided to buy a set of Tein monoflex coilovers with EDFC. Now could alter the ride height. My problem is at speed if i drive over a dip in the UK's quality roads, my offside tyre bottoms out against the GRP underneath of the wide arches. What is the best way to correct this? i do not want to make the gap bigger between top of tyre and top of arch. i have got two ideas not sure which is best for Tein setup. 1. Tighten up ring supporting the spring, this i believe would increase spring rate, making it harder to squash. might make height of car higher, then screw lower body up, to shorten coilover to keep gap. 2. Seen bumper stops, do not know if they can be fitted to Teins, as you cannot take tops off. Otherwise any one else got a better idea. all advice greatly appreciated Regards Kev

I have a set of UK spec alloys in good condition, off my Z. If anyone is interested in making me an offer. The fronts have 2 very good condition uniroyal tyres. the rears have 2 bridgestones, which would need replacing. Can upload a picture if anyone is interested. Regards Kev

I fitted a set of TEIN mono flex to my Z. The fitting instructions told me not to use the top plate off the orignal shocks. For height settings you need to ensure the overall length of the shock assemblies are the same. You can compress the spring more of less then alter the spacing between the bottom of the spring to the bottom fixing point. Double check these dimensions. Regards Kev

When I changed my clutch for an RPS max I just removed gearbox. It was not too bad removing lowered it onto a jack then rolled from under car, which was sat on axle stands. Bear in mind the gearbox weighs about 80kg and refitting and lining up gearbox was a nightmare, due to it's weight I had to lie under box supporting with arms and jig about.

Just another tip. If you change the front bumper, you might find it sits lower on the car! I fitted Tein mono flex coil overs with EDFC, then fitted a full body kit with a strosec front bumper. The bumper sits lower on the car, which means the bumper is close to the ground and could bottom out. mine was about 50-70 mm off the road snd could still go lower. to do a complete job need to fit new upper camber brackets front & rear and new front toe arms. i have to raise the car to get it on the ramp for a MOT. This is what i have learnt Regards Kev

The Carputer is VIA EPIA EN15000, which runs at 1.5GHz. I have already mounted it in a standard case. But, as we all know the Z has little room in it. So, as i am a design engineer for a large sheet metal company. Thinking of designing and making a custom case so i can fit it into the side of the boot. Then the DVD drive will eject out of the side of the standard plastic boot trims. then mount the amp in the middle of the boot, like most people do covered in a perspex cover. So should i route all the cables around the car, and boot, then fit dynamat, then fix cables in place over Dynamat. As the amp i am looking at is 5 channels was going to only fit one sub. Dont know whether to fit in the middle of the boot, against the back of the car pointing forwards. or fit it in say the L/h side of the boot. Does its position matter. i have heard people say some subs have to be bolted into an enclosure ?? Regards Kev

As my Z is a uk spec, it had the 2 piece stereo. Previously had standard speakers, replaced them with infinity reference speakers, tweeters and cross-overs. Now i am going to upgrade. Would you continue to use the standard car cables for speakers. Or should i replace with upgrade speaker cables? If so do i cut the old ones away? Could someone recommend a good quality cable? Also when you install dynamat do you only fit to boot? The boot area has openings behind plastic trims are you supposed to cover them over? Has anyone got any pictures of a Z with Dynamat, sound proof fitted? Regards Kev

Hi Guys All wiring of new electrical components now complete. just got the main task of installing and wiring the following :- 7" lilliput motorised in dash touchscreen monitor 1.5Ghz carputer Amp (yet to buy) I have purchased a complete Autoleads wiring pack. My first task is to get a power feed from the battery to the rear of the car. Wondering is it ok to track the thick (35 mm2) cable under the car, laying it in the brake pipe plastic tray? or should i lay it in the car. I have purchased a complete car Dynamat pack. Do i apply this before or after cabling? I was looking at buying a good 5 channel amp like below http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-pdx-5_p-23383.htm Is this a good amp? Any advice from people who have done any of this, would be greatly appreciated. Saving me making the same errors, or recreating the wheel. Regards Kev

Jeff I would like to see the sketch. would be nice if the HID's only switch on when needed. Kev

I had fitted Eibach lowering springs and koni shocks, previously. no need for adjustable camber arms. The only problem you may get is slight wearing of the side of the tyres. The adjustable cambers arms are supposed to re-align the tyre geometry as the car is lowered. So not necessary more optional. Regards Kev

Brought a nice chromed power steering pot off Slick Pete. As i am going to replace the fluid for the main steering. Plan on bleeding it through to rear hicas. I have read a thread about having the car on axle stands running the car above 2000rpm with the rear wheels turning, someone then turns the steering wheel left , then right while someone lies under the car opening and closing the bleed valves. I have got the Conzults program, can i use the simulate drive option to turn the rear wheels, while having the engine idling to pump the power steering fluid through. As i do not fancy lying under car with wheels spinning, and bleeding through. All advice appreciated. Kev

I have a set of Koni Shocks with Eibach lowering springs for sale been on car for about 18 months. Fitted a new body kit, need to be able to adjust height so brought a tein mono flex height adjustable setup instead. Let me know, can E-mail you a picture of them if it helps. Regards Kev

Ive got a set of Koni sports adjustable shocks and lowering springs up for sale. Just fitted Tein mono-flex with EDFC all round. If you are interested make me an offer. Regards Kev

I thought i read somewhere that to bleed the power steering system, you just turn steering wheel left and right, the pump moves the fluid to get rid of air keep topped up. Where would be the best place to drain the whole system, as i guess all the piping from front to rear of car would hold a reasonable amount of fluid.

Hi Guys Plan on fitting chromed Power steering reservoir, thought good opportunity to drain and replace power steering fluid. Whats the best method? Thought about removing one of the pipes on the steering rack and letting it drain out, will this drain the Hicas as well? Whats the best process to do all this, are there any gaskets/seals i will need to complete? Can i use power steering pump to pump the fluid out for me and will this drain HIcas, will it blow it out too quickly, can the motor run without fluid as it drains? All advice appreciated Regards Kev

As i remember the shaft that fits down the centre to screw the filter into can fit either way to the plate. So check it has not been put in the wrong end. This is only what i can remember as i fitted it years ago. It is also a bit tight to fit all your senders in the space available. Later i will take a picture in situ, not that you can see much when the filter and everything is installed. My car is on stands at the moment, fitting new shocks, suspension bits and new big brakes. Kev

Yes, oil filter fits no problem. Just hangs a bit lower. Kev

If you do a search, there was a discussion that, if you replace the front upper arms with adjustable version you need to replace the tension rods with adjustable. if you poly bush, they are too stiff and will tear the hole open on the lower arms. A big no no, and serious suspension trouble. Do not poly bush the tension rods. Regards Kev

Thanks for the offer jmwuk, i already have that same bleeder. Want to ensure all old brake fluid is flushed as been in system about 5 years!! Fitting new kit want to ensure installed to the optimum level.

Hi Guys Just fitting my new AP brakes, they are massive!! Wondering what's the best way of flushing old brake fluid out. wondered whether to allow all old brake fluid to run out of reservoir and brake lines. Then connect up to new brakes add new fluid in reservoir and pump through, or just keep pumping and topping up reservoir. My concern of allowing all fluid out of brake system is having air trapped. Already have instructions on bleeding brakes. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Regards Kev

I think its the connector for stock boost solenoids. If you fit an aftermaket boost controller these have to be disconnected / bypassed. Should be a plug either side of engine. Regards Kev

I am currently updating the suspension setup on my car. Plus, fitting bigger brakes. Rather than bodging the brake deflectors i want to remove them properly. So i thought remove wheel hub then pull the deflector off. Will it pull of or is it welded in place? Do i still need to remove top & bottom tapered joints? If so where are they located, not shown on manual ie picture above?

Just a quick question. To remove the front hubs do you simply have to unbolt wheel bearing lock nut, located behind the front axle. Then pull the front hub out? Regards Kev

Just to make you aware i brought a Strosec copy kit from a guy who use to sell on here (Chris Nolan) which would have fitted better if it was flat sheet of GRP. Lost my money with that kit, B*****d. So i brought from luke. His kit was far better, but not perfect. Still needs work to get it to fit right. Be careful of other copies, could be throwing your money away, as i did first time round. Just keep that in mind Kev

Hi People Just started ripping old suspension components off car to fit new components. i have the following to fit to the front :- Adjustable camber arms Adjustable Tension Rods Energy Suspension Master Kit Stillen Uprated anti-roll bars Adjustable link arms Tein Monoflex Suspension EDFC. In the picture below:- I have got the poly bush which fits where the yellow spot is. Can you get new improved rubber/ polyurathane parts? Can they be replaced? Is it worth doing? I have also got a set of 6 pot AP brakes to go on. What is the best way to remove the brake shield complete? Is it welded to the hub? I wondered if i cut through, where i have placed the RED dot then could prize it open, as long as it is not welded to hub. All comments appreciated. Regards Kev