(adl) phoenix

nobody know? is the grading irrelevant on heavy duty bearings

i think they work out about the same, performance wise, ok on paper the fmic is bigger but restricts air into the rad and intake, hence why i moved my intakes to the SMIC location i had the same problem with height, had to fabricate some shorter brackets for mine, to raise it up as it was lower then my bumper. but large smic arnt much smaller, and arnt in anything way, your black one would look good with a FMIC IMO, its my fav bit of my zed the way it looks so mean think the change would be looks as a posed to anything else.

can someone explain this too me please, was on concept Z's website, and some are asking for grade and not others...? do i still need grades if i fit forged pistons and rods, along with ACL race(heavy duty) bearings? and what does the extra oil clearance mean?

would be good to see what your opinion of those is, i cant afford 888's any more so looking for anther track tyre as well.

cant comment on these particularly, but had toyo R888 on my 320bhp s13, they are the same style, and they transformed it, made it actually controllable, as a posed to sideways everywhere, didn't do any track time on them, but what i will say be vary careful in the wet, as the toyo's were like driving on ice. dont expect them to last long though lol.

well you could run an oil flush or crankcase cleaner threw before you drain it to remove the engine, might help clean internals out.

personally id use it as an excuses to do a few other bits on the engine, rear main seal etc., and id go with new lines on the turbos, or at very least replace the oil return rubber pipes, and don't forget all new gaskets, and the oil return pipe one. could just remove he fuel pump fuse and crank the engine as an alternate method if you don't have a primmer kit. but id do it a fair few time, and then would break them in carefully, personally left mine running for ages on the drive, before finally taking it for a drive.

the mechanics have just nicknamed mine k.L.I.T.T. because apparently its knight riders gay cousin... :blink:

Nissan is over £100+vat lol... :blink: and not much cheaper to me lol. i wanted a more accurate gauge anyway maybe ill just fit an after market one in

had a bit of a brown trouser moment with the zed today. left work and started to head home, and noticed the oil pressure gauge suddenly went to 0... :blink:... threw it onto the curb and shut the engine down thinking, im losing oil or something, and found nothing wrong??? i think i read somewhere its pretty common for the pressure sender to fail. can anyone confirm this? or is there a fuse?

i need to get the zed some new rubber, i've still got stock alloys (because i like them lol) so 225/50/16 all round. what tyres have people got? and whats your opinion on them? im thinking of toyo T1R's but have heard they have a weak side wall, so may get R1R's instead, i need fast road / 1x 20min track session(trax) tyre. lol

well, till a new nut turns up ill have to leave it. so i brought the other side in the match it, (using lasers lol) and i have to say, i really like the change in handling... to the point in which i'm thinking of leaving it. the toe is now slightly out , and although it feels much more frisky, it turns in so much better, its completely solved the under steer problem.

tried that wont budge at all, its annoying it cracked off the rod end fine, then got stuck guess ill have to try and cut it off.

well doing my steering rack boots today all way going well untill the lock nut on the n/s seized in the wrong place... :headvswal so got one side set-up right but the other is 3 turns too far in, my question is, can i use washers to bring out the rod end? there is no way of budging the nut, short of cutting it off. spent an hour fighting it.

its one of the advantages for working for Nissan, getting to use the ramp and laser aliment tools... ... however the disadvantage is the mechanics will be looking for any excuses to fail it on the MOT... :sweatdrop:..

thanks, ill be careful of the ABS sensor. i want to bring my toe out very slightly too, will be using the lasers at work for tracking.

dam, wish id thought of that,

my MOT next friday so i need to replace my rack boots as im pretty sure they will fail, got a couple of new AMS boots (got them from z1 cheaper then i get them from work lol???) is it a big job to change them? what's likely to break? any tips? im using the ramp at work just get a load of stick if i ask the mechanics for help lol. thanks ash.

good point, but i want it to be mine, sounds strange but i want to do it myself. i've got a full silcon hose set, and very lrg FMIC and pipework in place already along with a selin system. but i still only had 316RWHP.... @11psi, got ams light weight pulley set, turbotechnics stage 2 turbos, so lots of nice bits but soo little hp

i think i missed that from our list... :blink: not sure how i managed that, good point about the uprated timing belt too

saw his car in a magazine not too long ago, very nice, don't put ideas in my head lol.

not heard of doing that before, good idea.

the full list id huge, 1 x BDE Performance Z32 Motor Mounts 1 x Cometic MLS headgaskets (pair) 1 x Ferrea 1 mm O.S. Valves (Z32) 1 x Z1 CNC Upgraded Throttle Bodies 1 x ARP VG30DE (TT) Head & Main Stud Kit 1 x JWT 400+ Series Cams, R4+ 1 x JWT HD single coil valve spring kit (all 24 springs) 1 x Z1 Camshaft Sprocket Adapters 1 x Z1 Intake & Exhaust Bronze Valve Guides (24) 1 x Z1 VG30DE(TT) Basic Engine rebuild kit (Wiseco Pistons & Eagle R 1 x Ferrea/Z1 Ti Valve spring retainers 1 x AMS Max Flow TT Exhaust Manifolds *possible 1 x 850cc fuel injector kit & 300 Degree Rails *possible 1 x GT600R Turbo Kit *possible 1 x BDE Performance Z32 Electric Water Pump 1 x BDE Performance VTC Gears adjustable cam gears on top of this you've got all the seals and gaskets, freeze plugs galley plugs, and then i've got my drive train to beef up to take it too. all in i think we worked it out to be £9800 in parts,

i need some advice from the engine builders among us. i want to build a 500bhp engine, that's strong enough to maintain a fair degree of reliability. the current plans between me and the guys at work have managed to make a list of parts coming to nearly £10,000, so i think im over doing it, im wondering what you guys would do to build an engine to this spec? i've got the hardware to make the power but need an engine that wont go bang the first time its used on a track. 555cc injectors and a dual intake, as well as a bigger turbos etc, i also need to know how you make sense of the bearings? i want to get some uprated ones like i had in my S13 but cant find them anywhere. im definably going for: 88mm forged pistons eagle con rods rebuilding the heads, new bearings, oil and water pump new gaskets and seals etc but do i need 1mm oversized valves and race cams to reach this goal? uprated valve train to match, anything else? i've rebuilt a ca18det (s13 engine) before but that was only 300bhp not sure what i need for 500 lol. thanks

i like the "chrome engine tuning" bit thousands spent?? there's on for sale in Brighton like that, went in to deliver some parts and they gave it the up sale... "600bhp" ..."titanium turbos" turbos, at that point i told him by the way i own one of these, and with std injectors a single intake std intercoolers and not even an upgraded cooling system that they'd be lucky if it still had 300bhp. and it was an auto too. although, in a way this VVVV is a show car, was on a club stand at japfest, they were stupid enough to let it in squealing and leaking everywhere... lol :blushing: i didn't even bother to clean it...