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pete-flint

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by pete-flint

  1. Just remember to turn it over by hand a few times and keep checking the marks, shouldn't have any problems that way.
  2. Don't them engines look great when they are out of the engine bay !!
  3. Change oil in g/box, can make syncro a bit slow when cold and check clutch adjustment/ fluid level, could be leaking slave cylinder.
  4. ...ONLY use a genuine Nissan belt. It's such a vital part so it should not be scrimped on Good advise, Don't forget it. Engine re-build, a hell of a lot compared to saving a few quid on a belt, warranty or not. They sell tools at Aldi, if you break them, you get them replaced, what you break with them won't get replaced though !!
  5. Sounds like you've talked yourself into it, go on, it's only this years holiday money you're spending !!!!
  6. Good job that chain link fence was there to stop it !!!
  7. Tension rod ??? Do you mean torsion bar, if you do, no, they don't leak as they are rubber items, no fluid involved, just rubber mouldings between torsion bar and chassis. The only leaking thingy on the suspension is the shock absorber, all suspension joints are rubber bushes. Kits available in most mags, don't consider it unless you have a bench press or you can handle a large vise and various sized sockets.
  8. Similar problem to mine. Trouble on Thursday, managed to get it home, left it until Saturday, turned the key and the bugger started straight away. took it out for a thrashing and it's run as sweet as a nut. Bloody un-believable these cars.(see Difficulty starting thread) At least YOU didn't get asked to check your compression ! !
  9. It's been running great for months on end, today it won't start, except after prolonged cranking, 30 - 40 seconds then it will splutter into life. Sparking is fine. Plenty of fuel through return line. When it does fire up it's lumpy on tick-over but seems to run o.k. normal driving. Plug was dry and a nice coffee colour when removed to check spark. Any suggestions, please.
  10. It's an "old lady"thing. Hide the wrinkles.
  11. Next time I have a problem with it I think that's the way to go, cheers. But I still can't work out why it's there, even my Skyline has a stupid loop in it, but at least it's opposite the slave cylinder, no bobbing up and down with that one. One of lifes mysteries !!
  12. Can someone please explain why the clutch slave cylinder has an extra loop in the fluid circuit, for the life of me I can't see the logic in it. It just makes bleeding the system more awkward without any advantage at all. Why, oh why ??
  13. Thanks for the help and suggestions. The old slave cylinder had oil leaking from the boot at the clutch lever end, so that had drawn me to the conclusion that it was Thomas Cooked. Bleeding nuisance !!! I had wondered what that bleed nipple behind the headlamp was for. Thanks guys.
  14. Hi Folks, Had to replace the slave cylinder on the other halfs Fairlady. No problem (I thought), 15 minute job, replace, bleed and back in business. Nope, for some reason I can get resistance on the pedal with the engine off, but when I start up I can't get anything. Where have I gone wrong ? :headvswal
  15. Wurth do a rubber lubricant, this can help the seals locate with the roof panels, also helps if the car is parked on level ground. Mine leaks if it is nose down, the water drips from the "sunvisor" or seat sprinkler as it is known locally.
  16. Thanks for the information one and all, just need the time to sort it out now.
  17. Probably been asked before but I've not found anything with a search. Is there or does anyone know if there is a FRONT camber adjustment kit for a Fairlady. The front tyres are wearing right on the inner shoulders near and offside. The only place I can see latitude for adjustment is the strut top mounting. Would shimming this mount cure the problem or is it more technical ? Any ideas, please.
  18. Centre bearing check :- get under car and grip prop either side of bearing, if there is movement ( I mean realy loose movement) when the prop is moved up, down and side to side, the bearing is goosed. There will be restrained movement due to bearing design, but if it rattles like a dick in a wellie it's time for a new one.
  19. Same light came up on the wifes motor when there was a problem with the AFM, probably made worse by me booting it to try and get it past 50 m.p.h. ! !
  20. Spare set of bulbs, first aid kit and a warning triangle required over there. Hide your road angel, frogplod take exeption to that type of equipment ! !
  21. So, that is where all the self opinionated pricks hang out. Barryboys urinal.
  22. I find it very sad, someone so young.I only had some parts delivered from Jay on Friday, very sad loss. Best wishes to the ones left behind. R.I.P. Jay.
  23. So, how many Petes is that ?
  24. It also disables speed limiter, kids ECU into thinking you are not in top gear.
  25. There you are, it's working already ...

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