MICKMCL007

hi shrek am just going to buy a bar i think and ive sourced a bypass piece for the hoses.cant be bothered fixing it anymore. cheers..

Hi just a random question ! ive got a leak in my hicas system and getting a lockout bar to replace at the rear, been doing hours and hours of looking for the best way to bypass the hicas, now a lot of people are saying join the hicas feed line back to the pas pot,now would it be okay for me to do the bypass to the pot and still drive my z , before i fit the awaiting lockout bar, just a thought!!!

its because its an import they seem to add a couple of hundred pound.why dont you try elephant.

still think its your ptu mate sorted mines out, when i was trying to start it ,it would just turn and turn and i had to pump the accelerator a couple of times and you could hear it trying to start then it would start probably about 15 to 20 secs, if yours is the same then try the ptu..

hi mate ive had the same problem recently but since ive done a complete oil change its starting better, oh and ive changed the ptu to a series 2 this also might have something to do with it..have you checked your plugs also..

hi shrek i will need to see how difficult it is to replace, that would be a good idea if its a straight swap over, im from glasgow so a collection would be ok ..depending on your thoughts about condition thanks..

cheers dave top man, al be under the car tomorrow..

do you think i should go for the driftworks kit or just the bar? i know not a lot of experience in glasgow for this type of car..the joys

hi dave im loosing a bit of fluid and the guy that does all my stuff for me said im loosing the fluid from the rotten ps lines at the back, im going to get under it myself at the weekend and see where the fluid is coming from just to be 100%.cant see and fluid lying on ground when i move car strange..

so whats the best way of doing this replacement. and what do i need to do to the power steering to keep it working without the hicas.. sorry for the stupid question as im giving the car into a garage with the how to guide, or as much info as i can gather to try and save some expence and time...thanks

Hi im still having problems with my power steering, i got one of my mates to have a look at it and he said the pas lines at the rear of the car are badly corroded and need replacing, i went to a garage with it and he said its a disaster of a job to do as other pipes are near ps ones. i also called a power steering repair garage today and he said that he wouldnt touch it either and would need to go to dealer for new pipes, please someone help... can the pipes be repaired or replaced or am i better to strip out hicas and put a bar in, how easy or difficult is this to do many thanks..

Hi im having some problems with the power steering on my 1990 tt, there was a noise coming from the front left pulley, was told it was probably requiring replacing, on this forum, another suggestion was to top it up while engine running, now this done the trick and i had power steering again, just been back out in the 300 and no power steering again, ive looked for fluid loss but nothing apparent, where is the fluid going? tried diagnostics but cant get the flashing lights please help getting fed up working constantly on the car..

had a mk4 supra was a fast car but my 1990 zx tt would leave it standing after take off, the supra is quite fast off the mark so not much in it too begin with, but from 60sh to 100sh no contest unless u blow a turbo, good luck

cheers groover.. al give it a bash once i buy a power steering pump.just need to source one now...

how easy is it to change the pump, and should the belt be changed at the same time,cheers..

Hi once again a problem with my z? its a 1990 tt auto ,uk car ive not got power steering or it feels very heavy,i looked in the top up bottle when running and seems very low but when i turned engine off and went to top it up there was plenty of fluid in it just a small topup, i also am hearing a strange noise coming from one of the pulleys,the one highest up to the drivers side , checked for leaks etc ..

hi ive done mines twice now first time it was a manual loom,but i didnt know until i connected everything up and didnt have a connection for the auto port,then took it out and replaced with a brand new right hand drive auto one from america what a difference, so now ive got a spare manual one lol..rebuilding the aircon unit was the only pain i found and my engine was in place. easy job once youve done it ironically.

thats great mate there is none of these in the balance bar i did notice that there were spaces for something just not sure what, well there you go the garage at their best again, can i use something else or must it be these rubber type washers/seals.

Hi well thanks for your help cleaned all injectors tps,cas,colis,took plugs out and cleaned and gave them a rub,tightened all hose clamps ,then found that the maf in my car was faulty the garage mustve been messing around with it,no gauze damp and dirty inside it and on removing black cover plate found it to be full of corrosion and various parts of pcb damaged, replaced the maf and now running much better almost 100%, i think ive got a leak from the metal tube that goes from one bank to the other does this need a gasket or some sort of sealer on refitting, i think its were the air leak is... once again thanks for your advise...

as i sayd you can get a good almost new series 2 from america....

get one from ebay usa about £40-£50 pound,just the same .

ive just replaced the wiring loom also so it cant be the connections unless its the injectors themselves, went out and started it tonight and it seemed to run ok just wouldnt idle on its own, could it be something to do with the hot engine last night that led to the bad idiling, was hoping to get it in for mot soon, fk... how do i test for boost leak ? ive also ordered a new ptu coming soon..be better just buying another car lmfao..woulve been cheeper..

come on guys any more ideas ?

hi everyone ive nearly finished my 300 rebuild, rewire and bodywork, replaced the temp sensor and gauge sensor today, ran the car for about 15 mins not driving it just letting it idle because its in my garden, seems to be running a bit high on the revs so i tryed to adjust, but when i put the air con on the revs raised again, eventually i gave up with this and decided to relocate the dett sensor as this was the only fault that i was getting code {34). relocated it now engine sounds as if its running on 4/5 cylinders, totally pissed off now as this was the last thing that i had to do.engine is hot from previous engine run , getting code {55} but running like a bag of sh*t... please help ive had enough....... :mad::mad:

hi it does seem as if all the zs are broken, im part of that group but im getting there, changed wiring loom twice because first one was for a manual and mines a auto, bummer, then discovered that the garage that had my z chopped off connections to sensors ,idiots , so i had to try and source them ,this is now done and just fired the car up tonight, purrin like a cat, just a few minor parts needed to get it ready for mot....