ianl

Its a jap bumper, the previous owner cut into it to fit the fogs. He said behind the first layer there was a void the fog fited in, it was just a case of working out where to cut

Tried reloading

My 567x65 sig which passed the rules of the site the previous time there were restrictions isnt showing. What am i doing wrong?

Fitted a NA gearbox to a TT car? When I fitted a TT box to my NA I was almost exactly the opposite of that

Started mine for the first time in 6 months today It too had been wrapped in a nice snow blanket Had to jump start it as some rodent had chewed through my charger cable Sounds like a tractor that needs servicing Drove it to the end of the drive and onto the back of a truck and waved goodbye As it drove off i thought damm that looks good, cant wait to get it back once Jeffs given it some loving

I'd be interested, my boss is still not fitted " as manufacturer intended"

So is it one swb zed per description that you match from the list? If so, are you calling me ugly? You could hurt my feelings :) token smillie to show i,m jokin not hatin

I think whether they will insure it depends on how you describe the car. I was playing with online aplication forms, think it was lynbrook or lancaster. There was the option to select fairlady or 300zx. Both options led to the correct description of my car, one got me a good quote and the other no quote

My solution was to remove the plastic bit with the ribbon cable in and the yellow sticker on. It then looked like a standard series 1 without cruise, except without the horn contact. Everything then fitted fine , all bolted together, worked and indicators cancelled correectly. and i wired a seperate horn button on the dash Probably not the correct way, but it worked for me

admiral were quite happy to insure mine with any mods, however they then pointed out the small print, that in the event of a claim only standard parts would be used in the repair, even where replacing declared mods. so if you damage one side of your car you could end up with 2 stock 16" wheels and 2 aftermarket 18" and stock shocks on one side and aftermarket lowered adjustable on the other not sure how this would work where one mod relied on another to work and only one part got damaged and replaced with stock decided it was bolox and didnt use them

the common misuse of terminology can lead to confusion usually : state 1: "output 0v" the unit doesnt as such output 0v, but instead internally conects its output pin to 0v to allow other units to connect to 0v via it. so a device with 12v connected will switch on when the alarm lets it connect to 0v state 2: "output 12v" the unit is no longer connecting its output pin to 0v, and probably by means of some resistors or an IC is artificially holding the pin at a +ve voltage. any attempt top draw current from this "12v" will cause the voltage to drop imediatly. without knowing exactly what you are doing its dificult to suggest. ignition feed 12v to the relay and 0v to the alarm? a transistor would be a common way to switch a relay from a supply that cant provide enough current, but may be overcomplicating things

Connect the 0volt side of the relay to the switch, apply 12v to the other side. Wire the switch normally closed? If the alarm output is designed to switch 0 volt it won't be designed to pass current when not 0v

Of course you have to have the sidelights or headlights on as we'll as an indicator to get the curb light on. They were only on later cars ( my m does my j doesn't ) so if someone has replaced the light units on an early car they may do nothing

I sent you an email too. Hope it got there

some swb have it in the front, i think i've also seen one with both front and rear

I'm free this sunday

Ah, hopefuly he will see this, they did offer me one quote, but i wouldnt be able to use it for my 5 minute comute, during the summer; then on reading more he brought up the 20 years. I wonder why when you ask for comuting insurance, they dont ask how far you comute Turns out lancaster online quoting gives me a quote for a fairlady 300zx but not for a 300zx ( import) still with chaucer at a lot more than i,m currently paying them

Well i'm getting nowhere.... Having recieved the letter " chaucer are no longer offering motor insurance for your type of vehicle" i've spent the day shopping. 3 companies have offered me policies with chaucer, all at around twice what i was paying Lancaster couldnt help and put me through to a " sister company " ( one of the chaucer quotes) oh majic, i,ll repeat all that info again Footman as said earlier , car needs to be over 20 years old , and wouldnt let me comute Lyndbrook, will have to phone me back, i'm still waiting Any more suggestions?

Large fuse box. 3 relays, 2 blue - one to switch live to both left lights, other to switch live to both right lights. 3 rd relay selects which lights ( full or dipped) is connected to ground (left and right together)

Large fuse box. 3 relays, 2 blue - one to switch live to both left lights, other to switch live to both right lights. 3 rd relay selects which light ( full or dipped) is connected to ground (left and right)

apparently footman only insure cars over 20 years old :( and wont insure mine as its only 17 years old chaucer have apparently decided not to insure me anymore , apparently to high a risk because its an import, if there was a risk of it making it onto the road for more than 2 days a year they might have a point so my premium will be going up from £250 ish to £1200 ish each Zeds for sale, buy one get one free

well asuming a saturday or sunday in december.... i cant make the 8th or 15th, available the rest

I,m just guessing, but i have a spare connector next to my gear stick in the vert thats had the manual conversion. Cant remember exactly what it looks like but vaguely similar

The conector for the auto hold/ power switch that becomes redundant when you do a manual conversion?

Clock?