fry1

If you think its the turbos you could by pass the water feeds to them, they will be fine with oil cooling to try it but I think its more likely to be head or block I'm afraid

Well I was at this point a few months back, I never thought the point of doing a 1000 miles to run it in was valid, work out how many times the pistons will have traveled up and down in a 100 miles never mind a 1000. Its personal choice mine got 20 miles a gentle ish a trip to Jae then 16psi

Don't rule something out just because its new, Is the electric fan working ? it may have got a little too and if the fan didn't cut in it may have boiled over ?.

If you want to convert and burn to dvd (Apollo DivX to DVD ) there should be no noticeable loss in quality

I hope its the oil and not a sticking lifter as the oil is much easier to fix than the lifter. Thin oil should not be the cause of the tappet noise, the holes in the tappet assy are very small, its more likely to be a sticking lifter or a bit of crud has got the little ball valve in the lifter stuck open so its not keeping the pressure in it and allowing it to operate properly :(

I have removed a couple of engines now and just about all the mounts either come apart during removal or are ready to split afterwards. Mine is now running on sr20 apex uprated mounts, but it us in an s13

NEW! We have been working hard to bring the 16-bit ECU upgrade to market and are now offering upgrades for the 1993-1995 Non-Turbo AND the 1995 TwinTurbo models! Please see ordering information for 16-bit models lower on the page (be sure to go down to the 16-bit upgrade option). if you have a 16bit ecu contact them

Ok I read it wrong you didn't just change your oil :headvswal

Its so hard to tell from that clip, if all you did was change oil then most likely may be a tappet but it sounds too high pitched for that, it really is very hard to tell.

Yup I would go with a controlled nos system to remove lag if you perceive it as a problem

Glad your sorted, its an easy mistake to make but I bet you never do it again :wack:

did you have the fuel lines off at all?? is there any chance you got inlet and return the wrong way round ?

new direct fit o2 sensors can be had from Andrew page, but dead or disconnected o2 should not cause it to flood and not start

I doubt the figures they quote are likely to be a bit over enthusiastic, its unlikely that they give you any more power than what you already due to weight loss, lightened flywheels don't advertise huge power increases just quicker revs, it may just help you get it slightly earlier, your more likely to get a bit extra from the fact the accessories driven by it are not been driven as fast. I put one on just in case it gives me an extra 2 horses i never had before, hell have you seen the size of horses its got to be worth taking a chance

Could be a water feed to the turbo. if the reason for the overheating was a sudden lack of water something should leak out, fill it up and see where it leaks, If id does not leak when its cold warm it up and keep an eye on water level till you can find it. Check that the cooling fan is working If you cant find any leaks you may need to do a compression test to check head gaskets But as has been said don't go driving it till you find what went wrong, I hope its something simple, good luck

Just took the plenum off mine to locate the fooked tappets, Its not too bad a job, good luck, and when you drop something even more luck trying to find it

Looking at the upgrade kits anything other than direct replacements (and they would boost early) would need some sort of work to make them fit, ie removing metal from the engine mount, smaller t25 type with roller bearings would boost well before 4k, above would be into 2t8 and disco potato territory ?

Does anyone know the most you can push standard injectors, I have it running 14psi (ish) at the moment but every now and then 17psi pops up, I have custom intake, zaust, and r33 wmic's. Need to pull the top end apart for a noisey tappet but when its sorted 17psi sounds like a plan. Good result on the dyno :D

Stick with the derv option, you could have a transit engine and box for 300 notes and it would certainly attract plenty off attention for the noise, it would be very slow mind, the vg30dett is quite a deep engine although it does not look like it when its in the bay so once everything is removed you should have a good bit of room to play with

I walked round and round and round trying to find zeds on Friday night, didn't have much more luck on the Saturday. Nice to see you btw kenny

Take one of the coil packs out and put it near the plenum, get some one to turn the engine over and see if you get a spark from the end of the coil pack to the plenum

I bought my 200 witch had its auto box rebuilt for just under £1300 this was rebuilt 3 months before I bought the car it lasted me 4 months and was completely shot, converted it to manual. Its a tough choice to make but I think I would go for the manual conversion over a rebuild

Did Nissan use both titania and zirconia lambda's on zed's, I been looking to see which ones i need, Mine have a red wire running through which indicates titania but I have found conflicting info on the net so would like to know for sure before I buy the wrong ones :smash:

The engine loom does suffer from going brittle, if you think its loom or electrical related you could do with getting some one local to plug data scan into it or check the ecu for fault codes maf is in the center front of the car just before the tee on the air intake Could be a big boost/vacuum leak

Easy way is put some thing round the pulley's to get the length then you need to go to any half decent motorist shop, tell them its a 4pk ie 4 grooves and they will have belts with the length on get the closest one to the length you require, measure it with the adjuster backed off so you have room to tighten it up, should only take a couple of goes to get it right. Or you could email who ever you got it from they usually have a list of part No's