Danny0432

Front evo brembo calipers and adapters, no bolts with them but are easy enough to find ( also o would recommend getting 10.9 grade). Looking for £350 + P&P Will get pictures up soon

I quite like that Amethyst, think the ultraviolet is a bit too overly though!

Think my zed is going to be getting some fresh paint in the new year, pretty set on it being a purple but could easy be swayed if someone has something nice to show. So far thinking either: Brickyard red (350z) Interlagos Fire (350z) Black Rose (Corvette)

Hi guys, got low compression on my engine so looking for some advice on where i can send it to be bored out? Can rebuild it myself no worries but don't have anyone local that can bore it. Any recommendations would be appreciated :thumbup:

Looking for the 2 front pcv hoses that go onto the accordian pipes ASAP please

Do you need to get both off or just one? I've had the passenger on off with engine in situ, took a few hours but possible. Driver side would be a good bit harder and more to dismantle to get to it.

Okay took out the fyse and its completely intact, but just as a "whit if" replaced it with another and everything works perfectly! Thanks a bunch Groover, owe you a pint or 2.

I did as you said and the fuse was blow, replaced but no change, although got the indicators to work, hazard button is not letting the switch out fully. Also i get no lights on the pods or speedo when i turn them on?

Hi guys putting my car back together and tried the lights tonight but having some problems. The headlights hi/lo, brake lights, hazards and reverse lights work fine The tail lights, number plate lights, directional indicators all round and front sidelights don't work? I've read about the tail light module which i was looking into bypassing to see if that sorted things, but would that affect the front sidelights and indicators? and would it not cut out brake lights? Any help would be massively appreciated as im not the best with electronics.

I've used Goodyear eagle asym 2s on mine and they were really good.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, greatly appreciated. Turns out the belt was out by a tooth or 2. After i got a hold of a pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure I deduced the only other factor had to be timing. Adjusted the cas as far as it could go and was still too advanced, so had to strip the front back down, re did the timing belt, set the CAS to its original position and it fired up with no hesitation and ran sweet as a nut. Will be setting the base timing up tomorrow properly. The engine was stripped down for inspection after the turbos gave up, since it was the perfect opportunity to do it. Bottom end was in great shape but reground valves and rebuilt lifters while the heads were off, full gasket kit and 120k service done at the same time. Honestly cant understand how that's happened but only myself to blame here. Luckily it wasn't too far out, but I always like to, once any timing work has been done, crank the over by hand before trying to start it to prevent that happening.

Injectors are definitely opening, had the plugs out and can see fuel in the cylinder and injects when you turn it over. Fuel pressure is very good, made sure with an aftermarket gauge. Spark is strong, had coils out and checked so that should eliminate PTU? Going to get a timing light and make sure the timing is okay. Now at risk of sounding like a fool do the cars have immobilisers from factory? No aftermarket system on the car and was under the impression they had no factory one?

Okay update, getting fuel in and out, checked all lines and they are in the right place. Now when pressure is relieved from the lines, and then then you turn over the car it picks up and starts to run for a few seconds then cuts out again. Then from there you can crank it all you want there's no sign at all of it picking up. Any idea what would be causing this? Im starting to get lost so desperate for some suggestions.

Update, found fuel wasnt getting past the FPR, going to play around with that and see if we can get it to work

Hi guys, after while got my engine back in the zed, hooked up and went to start. Let her turn over a while to prime fuel and oil. Now went to start but she wont fire. Took coils out and checked for spark, good strong spark. Checked for fuel pressure, and it's definitely there! Did the screwdriver check on injectors and all of them are clicking away nicely which i assume means they must be operating? They are series 1 injectors from which i gather they are proone to failure though. Now, we took the plugs out and usually when cranking over so much you notice the unburnt fuel smell starting, didn't have that. Plug came out dry and no smell of fuel to them Now to me i'd say its a fuel issue, as it starts and runs a couple seconds when you use easy start on it? But im no expert, hence why im asking you guy :) Any suggestion on where to look are greatly appreciated!

After a set of valve covers for my TT, condition doesn't matter too match as they will get sprayed anyway. Will need to be posted also.

After in of these, the one that side behind the driver side wing.

Don't think it'd suit a standard car, but I reckon it'd look good on a TwinZ kitted car!

I got the Z centre one (basically drift works) Not driven it yet but a solid bit of kit. Only ballache was removing the HICAS balljoints. If your going to get it buy a tool called a pitman arm pulled (there are 2 sizes, buy the larger one) to drift out the balljoint. Had to apply a bit of heat to get it out, but it saves you have to remove the hiv and pressing it out.

Unfortunately remaps off the cards since its a £500 overnight ferry trip plus whatever hotel prices are since I'm in the middle of the north sea, just looking for something I can use not even once a month for some extra power.

Thinking to eventually install the AEM water/method kit (boost dependant one) once I get some larger injectors. Anyone had experience with this or similar kits. Going to be running 14-15psi then though run the math from 16 maybe up to 18psi? On stock turbos but would like to hear input if anyone has experience with it.

I'm wiring these into my Z and looking for a few pointers? Can the wires shared between the two be spliced into the point in the ECU harness? (Such as RPM, throttle) or are you better to have space between them? And for the ground are you better using two separate ground wires from the ECU for each, or have all 4 onto a single ground? And if using a single ground which order should the grounds go in? I.e AVCR1---SAFC1---ACR2---SAFC2 OR AVCR1--- AVCR2--- SAFC---1 SAFC---2 etc.

Ah okay i see, surely wont be too hard to make up an adapter then, might be worth a look into. Thank guys.

Cool thanks, was there much fab work needed to fit the speeds into your Zed?

Would prefer DC2 recaros like above but cost a fortune to ship up here. Have the chance of some Evo 5/6 ones since someone is breaking one up here hence why i was asking. That would be brilliant Mondo if you could.