Danny0432

Just replaced the stem seals and went to fire up the car after being built back up and seems to be firing when the inlet valve is open? (won't start, backfires and seen fireballs out throttle body) I stripped down the front end and redid the timing belt, had my old man who is also an engineer to check I wasn't doing something stupid and both agreed it was right (also turned engine over both ways and set back to original position and all marks lined up again) Tried to fire up before putting all back together but issue is still there. Only other thing I can think of is if I mixed up injector or coilpack wiring which seems unlikely as they are all different lengths so matches up to the cylinder? Is there anyway to test the plug by turning the cas to check the firing order? Also are both inlet cams 100% identical. I'm certain I pit the same cams in the heads they came out of but is there a chance I messed up there?

From what I remember pretty solid, been a couple months since it was last used so not 100% sure but can't remember anything odd with it off.

As above, I press the pedal and the pedal gets sucked a couple inches toward the floor. Doesn't hit the floor completely. I'm thinking faulty brake booster but never had an issue before so wanted some input

Hi all looking to change over to a NIStune setup in future and wondering is there any good mapper in Scotland or further south if need a be that can map for 95RON?

as above, needs to be posted :thumbup1:

no it stumbles and dies. checked over all hose and all looks ok. going to make a smoke tester to try see if there's any vacuum leaks when I get a chance. made a boost leak tester and found some small leaks that have been sorted

sorry wrote that out wrong will edit, i was checking it and came at 15. Also a week or 2 ago checked it via datascan and was saying 15. Engine has been fully rebuild so new belt, idlers, tensioner etc and CAS is pretty much in the middle yes

that's the timing using a timing light. I have datascan and want to check but laptop died a few days ago so need to get a hold of one to check what it says

Having timing issues with my car. Not a huge electrical genius so be gentle please! The timing is set to 15 btdc after I rebuilt the engine a couple months ago when i start it, It can't hold it's idle and dies if i leave it, but if you hold the throttle open and steady it's revs it runs fine, but the timing is jumping all over the place Now when i crank to start it runs 15 fine, but once started and still warm the timing goes completely erratic, going to 40-50 to maybe 20ish but never settles back to 15. Is this a CAS issue? Has a speciality Z chip so can't imagine that's at fault. Or maybe something else to blame?

Loom is in ok condition, I took the chance when the engine was out to clean all connections with baking soda, tooth brush then needle filed them. New injector connectors and double checked them and they all are good. I have a gauge at work somewhere to check fuel pressure Have done the diagnostic mode for o2 sensors and that seems to be all ok. Think I'm going to have to make some kinda boost/smoke leak detector through the week and make 100% sure there are no leaks.

All that's been done near the engine is had to fiddle with the exhaust as it wasn't sealing properly. otherwise nothing.

Already done the temperature sensor. Don't think plugs are a problem as it's run fine for a while until now.

Someone please help before I torch this thing Just been rebuilt, has run away fine until out of nowhere during cold idle it hunts, then drops well below 1k revs and dies If I keep a bit of throttle on and warm it up it isles rough as guts when until it's warm where it seems to be okay. Took codes, faulty temp sensor, replaced no change. Found the throttle bodies were out of sync and not closing fully. Fixed and no change Went about the set idle procedure. Idles good TPS has been adjusted Had the idle control valve off, cleaned and connector ohm tested. Have the air regulator apart and seems to be working. Plugs out cleaned and gapped. Don't have access to a boost leak tester but done the carb cleaner around all hoses and nothing. I'm lost, and losing hope, anyone able to help?

As above will need to be posted, get in touch if you have anything

hi thanks for the help, been working late nights so not got much of a chance to look at it lately. Found there is a break in the ground wire running to pin 2 on the relay, going to splice in a new one when I get a chance

yep headlights are on

yes I've looked at the drawings but I'm not great at reading them!! haha No life from the telltale but it illuminates when I "force" the fog light on

I've had the car for it's 1st MOT in 3 years and it failed on the rear fog light not working and have spent days trying to figure it out. I have tested the relay and it works fine. Fuse is fine as is the bulb Switch is fine, and linked out the 2 pins on the circuit board to make 100% sure I get power to the fuse and relay, so guessing the switch completes the ground circuit rather than supplies power? Now if I ground pin 1 on the relay the fog light comes on, should that be correct? Also if remove the relay and I link pins 1 & 2 then 3 & 5 then put 12v to pin 1 it also turns on the fog light? Under both circumstances the switch doesn't alter whether it's on or off. I have a basic electrical understanding but it's getting beyond me at this point and need some guidance, any suggestions what to test?

Have a set of unopened adapters for sale including new style connectors. This does not include the o rings for the injectors themselves. Exactly the same as below https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-system/z1-motorsports/injector-adapter-kit-new-style-injectors-early-fuel-rails-p-3348.html

After the accordion (not according, damn spell check) pipes for a TT if anyone has any spare

As above. AVCR boost solenoid harness extended with a new deutsch connector fitted, comes with stand to fit both, can also provide instructions to fit. Looking for £60ono for Intake and £170ono for the Apexi units - - - Updated - - - Sorry for rotated pics, not sure why thats happened

Have 2 ssqv for sale all ready to be mounted in the stock recirc position. One is brand new never seen action. Other has been used, and someone has resprayed it badly. Will try clean it up a bit but it works absolutely perfect Will get photos up tonight

As above, all in good condition, only selling as im going for a custom exhaust. Have a video here. Will get some pictures up soon.

Thought id try this before making my own from scratch. As above looking for any old thing, doesn't need to be pretty as it will be getting cut up, must be 2.5" or 3" inside diameter and preferably x pipe but h pipe would do Also will need to be shipped (at my expense obviously :thumbup:)

Started building up my engine today from the bare block, using Nissan bearings, but the thrust bearing (crnk bearing #4) will not fit in place on either the cradle or block? The crank is stamped 1 and block 2, so i got a grade 3 bearing as per WSM, part number matches and colour stamped properly but is just far to tight a fit and would need significant force (i.e. being hammered) into place. Anyone had any experience of this?