greg

where was the fookin call? ;p

:smash: true :tongue:

LMAO class

what if its a pub :duffer: :wack: :dance:

600miles thats dedication, most people moan when they have to pick a car up after 200miles LMAO

cylinder 5 is ****ed then :( 70 psi ish

happy birthday abi, will pop over in a bit when david has popped out! ;)

could try welding it preferably with fuel in it LMAO

again not worth the risk its not that bad a job, compared to some cars iv had to remove one from

i was going to say, bung it in if its a temp one, if the results were less than a hundred per pot i wouldnt bother! im driving a courtesy car whilst my company car is in for some work, whilst driving it home it was missing like a *******, so checked all leads, removed plugs and tested it cyl 4 has baely no pressure LMAO 140k mile ford though would explain it, i told the company its not a ****ing courteous car!!

it can just be the worn out thread on the bellhousing v.common, the thread strips easy on the aluminium. or where people have over tightened.

when you undo the ring of gearbox bolts, undo all the lower ones from 3-9 o clock. then once you drop x member! and engine is supported by hoist you can either sit on engine or lean over and undo the other 4 bolts around the top then you can split box from engine, dont forget to remove the four torque convertor bolts via the acsess hole in bellhousing if (auto) otherwise you will pull the convertor off the spline and leave it attached to the ringgear, making it a potential fiddle/mess and harder to refit, all autos slot in easy, manuals are more difficult being you have to line up the layshaft to the spigot/clutch.

when you finally lift engine you can gain acsess to rear bolt when engine is up a fair bit, failing that use a long reach 14mm spanner to get at it. If air con is empty you could unbolt both hoses to pump! if its full it will need draining by a professional air con person. As said make it the last thing to do, once you lift engine 10" up you will have loads of room to undo it :duffer: as i did this on a day to day basis it become a thoughtless process, same as anything once you do things regular it becomes easy. just take your time, there no real time to take an engine out, but theres plenty of time to do it right :cool:

some people can do it in an hour and a half then they woke up! get a friend to help out in any lifting, wouldnt want anything to fall on you with no one around!, so make sure the car is safe and you have a good hoist and the car safely on axle stands expect a day first time around, after a few occasions expect 3-4hours properly for removal and 6hours refitting, always takes longer making sure everything is RIGHT. greg

try with throttle open, but looks a bit low as manta said on one cylinder in particular, not real bad but worn.

id imagine if your using a stock sized crank pulley lightened vs overdrive waterpump pulley you will still be getting the same drive almost rather than loosing the rpm of an underdrive alone, being smaller means less turns of the waterpump which could in turn increase engine temps, not that theres a great deal of temp increases. any weight loss will improve performance wether it be hp or load.

been done to death bud do a search bud. less energy through the crank on ther underdrive so potential for more FWHP! however the pulleys for the waterpump/alternator wont do a great deal, but look good :p

dump the exhaust/chav lights and spoiler, and it would be a bit better, iv seen worse tbh

the wheels are nice though i guess thats what makes it 22k :)

in most cases you will :)

differances i can think are mearly the waterpump pulley wheel has a larger diameter on a uk car, you can fit either! just means you would need a 1010 alternator belt for uk pulley everything else is the same.

for future paul if you dissconected the convertor via the 4 stubby 14mm bolts through the acsess hole, the box would of slipped out like a bar of soap in a prison shower :wack: :p when your putting it back in fit the torque convertor back on. You can refill the convertor with some fluid before refitting, not sure if thats vital but cant do no harm, when you drop the engine in position you will find it will line up easy compared to having to squeeze the convertor back on the splines. greg not a critism just tip bud :duffer: manual's are more tricky to line up as you need to have a perfect aligment, in respect to the layshaft.

depends how much engine work your doing but the following are general parts idealy to replace whilst engine is out (turbo replacment) turbos :p EGR removal not vital pcv valves and all 5hoses all relevent washers and gaskets to turbo region make sure you replace oil feeds to turbos about £100 a pair but dont scrimp here :wack: rear oil seal! front oil seal to crank (easier with engine on stand of course) plenum bypass, or replace all hoses to coolant feeds. cambelt and tensioner (unless done recently) waterpump^ oil&filter coolant engine mounts over time perish and alot of the time fall off when the engine is lifted. worth having a spare set of good used! or new ones on standby. dont forget to check transmission ie clutch replacment,spigot, skim fly, release bearing makes this an ideal time to replace. check for any PS leaks now, this is the best time to fix those common leaks between pump/rack (obviously if engine work is nes) then full gasket kit, and everything else with engine is an obvious choice. people can add if iv missed something. the aim is to replace parts that may fail with age, rather than leaving things like rear oil seals means transmission will need to be removed in future for the sake of £20 :smash: good luck bud, greg

well draining the box would be a give away buddy :p considering you have not taken an engine out before bud hats off, just take your time putting it back in, will take longer as you want to make sure everything is tight and checked a few times :cool: and john definatly, although you could always unbolt the convertor and reattach it back to the tranny

10-4 :p