marshall2702

finaly got the parts today and put it all together and the rattle is totally gone and now runs sweet :dance: :dance: :dance:

the rattle stays constant at any speed up to 3k no matter how hard i accelerate and goes quiet on over run but is deffo intermittant some days it runs sweet and others sound like a diesel, it really sounds like its from the top right on the engine well im gonna get the belt, tensioner,water pump and vvt springs and give it a go :) if the rattle is still there then ill strip and rebuild it btw where would be the best place to get the belt and other parts i need as dont want to give nissan a penny and aint to sure on the cheap pattern parts the motor factors near me sell

no thoughts on this ? :(

hi i today decided to start stripping my engine today to investigate a intermitant rattle ive been getting between 2-3 thousand revs and after removing the cambelt cover i found that the cam belt tensioner was collapsed and therefore the belt was very loose so much so that i could move the belt up and down over a inch inbetween the intake and exhaust cam pulleys do you think this could be causing the rattle ive been having as i was sure it was coming from one of the cams ? i now cant decide to replace belt and all other 60k service items and put back together or to carry on striping down to the heads the cams anyway the rattle i was getting is intermitant and starts at around 2k and goes quiet again at 3k and happens when engine is hot and cold and sounds like its coming from the top right hand side of the engine any ideas ?

had another good look round the car this evening and after pulling some wring loom aside i noticed that the new pipe which was fitted from the master cylinder to the small block under the brake servo was routed only a inch from the top of the o/s turbo rather than behind the heat shield on the bulkhead :eek: so took it out and made a new one long enough to be routed correctly, bled with new fluid and took it out and so far so good the pedal feels perfect :D

had a good look under neath on a ramp today and can see that the clutch is new as is the flywheel, ring gear ,flexi hoses ,master and slave cylinder i know the standard clutch aint great but surely it should be able to be able to take it driving off boost in first gear ? im fairly sure the problem is a hydraulic one and the fluid isnt returning to the master cylinder properly and can feel that it is pressurising the system when hot so am gonna pull the cylinders and such off and inspect them on a bench to be sure then refit bleed with some dot 5 fluid as it has a higher boiling piont than dot 3 or 4 ill keep ya posted on how i get on :)

k changed the brake fluid this evening and took it out after about 10 mins of driving i could feel the biting piont rising and the free play being taken up, after 20 mins the pedal has no free play and by this time the clutch is sliping even off boost in first gear so managed to get her home and had a look at the fluid again and it looks to be normal really getting confused now :confused:

hi after selling my zx a year ago ive regreted it ever since but managed to do a deal and swap my audi a4 for another one so hear i am again trying to get all the probs sorted anyway the car is a k reg uk spec 2+2 tt and am having a problem with clutch slip the car has had = new clutch kit new slave cylinder new master cylinder when cold the clucth feels fine with a little free play at the top of the pedal and is disengaging around half way down but as the car warms up the biting piont slowly rises untill its biting right at the top at which time the clutch will slip once left for a few hours all is fine again any ideas ? :confused: and the other problem im having is that the heater blows hot all of the time regardless of what temp i set it to on the climate control panel is there a valve or a flap which could be stciking or needs replacing ? thx for any help in advance and dam its good to be back in a zed :D :D :D

nah the ecu was good just wanted a little more mpg lol

hi when starting the zed in the morning the revs dont rise as they should it just ticks over at 900 rpm which in turn makes it cut out ,after warming up all is fine . also when warmed up if i unplug the two connections at the idle valve they seem to make no difference at all ,the problem started when i swapped my mines ecu for a standard one any ideas

stumbled across these earlier ive never seen them before does anyone know if they are any good :) http://210.251.65.116/splitfire/top_home.cfm

ive checked the plug and am also getting my cat temp lights on so am thinking its due too no spark i will check the wires from ecu to ptu tommorow

i dont seem to be able to find a full ecu pinout diagram ,after changing my ecu today i am only running on 5 cylinders :cry: so can anybody post a link as i know ive seen it before thanks

yep i use it and i agree it is very good stuff :bow:

bling bling looks very nice mate :)

took this beast out for a spin this afternoon :) and it was fookin quick it made my zed feel well slow but then again it does have a 5.7 litre supercharged v8 in it hmmm think id better start saving

use forte all the time at work and usually has good results its leagues ahead of the crap at halfords and the like :)

heres mine not sure what size thet are though :slap: and aint got the car here to measure them

on the blower now mate

ok had another look at this and the courtesy light is working ok so deffo not fuse ive removed the drivers door card and found a four wire loom going to the lock actuator in the door (the integral one conected to the latch) i have a 12 volt feed and an earth on two of the wires so pressume the other two are signal wires to operate the passenger lock, these wires do nothing when lock/unlocking drivers door so i think the latch mechanizm is at fault could anyone confirm this?

just about finished retriming the dash just gotta put the door cards back on :D anyway im well happy with the results

my central locking isnt working on my zed :( does anyone know if there is a fuse ,relay ,or control unit that could be at fault thanks

got the polished plenum back on this week what do ya think

cheers andy it was the idle control valve plunger all sorted now :hyper:

i have just finished putting my plenum back on after having it chromed but now my idle speed is around 2k ,i have re adjusted the tps ,checked the coolant temp sender and wiring and all is ok , and have pressurised the intake and checked for leaks everything seems ok there to, also when i tried to set the base idle speed i found the adjusting screw makes no difference to the idle at all even after resseting the ecu and dissconecting the idle control valve :confused: does anybody have any ideas what could be wrong