RB30Z32

If your really that bothered, when you've refitted the diff just undo the level plug & drain the excess oil out. Personally for 0.4 of a litre I wouldn't bother.

To get more lock from the Z you need to follow the same steps as any Nissan, or any other car. Add some rack spacers between the steering rack & track control arm, or swap the track control arms for some with extra lock built in, you'll also need to mod the steering stops. After this you'll need to start modifying the front knuckles, being alloy this is a bit harder than a S-body, & move the steering rack (or fit offset spacers). Or you could just convert the front suspension over to the S-body set-up for uber lock.

Leo - The engine, RB30DETT (series 2 block with RB26 head), has been fitted :- I'm using a TT gearbox with a RB bellhousing. As for the question about the Hardtop, as this is a track car, mostly, I'd like to lose the T-tops. I read a article about someone building a track Z. In the first part he says its a 2+2 then says he's had the T-tops removed by using a roof cut from a donor car out of a breakers yard. I was under the impression that there where no 2+2 hardtops (I wonder if they were available in the US), but I thought I'd ask. Anybody know if a 2 seater roof panel would fit a 2+2?

Ah, that's way I can't find a picture of one. I've hard a look on http://www.courtesyparts.com & they list a roof panel for the 2+2(http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/body-front-roof-floor/730-roof-panel-fitting/-c-882_883_1000_1014.html), but it isn't clear if it's a full roof or a targa panel.

I've been looking around, & was wondering if the Z32 LWB (2+2) ever came with a hardtop (no targas, not sure if a N/A came with a hartop)? Cheers Stu

Vodkashots - You can't fail for a shock dust boot split/damaged or missing, might get a advise, as there not part of the test. You could fail if the dust boot had a bump stop bult into it & that was damaged as this is a part of the suspension. You'd have to be unlucky to get failed for that though.

Tell them that they have tested the vehicle's emission incorrectly (Z33 not a Z32) & that it should be a non-cat test. prob used the Z33 as the Z32 is'nt on the system. As for the sidelights, it's down to the tester, if you think that there is a problem you could ask the testing stations MOT QC bloke to double check them.

AS long as the DVLA have'nt registered it as a 300ZX then you should be able to get him to run it though a non-cat basic emission test. I get my 94 S13 200sx though the emission test like that. I'm not running a cat so the readings are high & fails the cat test, the computer does'nt have any info on the CA18DET engine, only the later SR20DET, so I have to do it as a old BET (Basic Emssions Test) with the higher limits. If he's a old bloke he may still be a :xxx: Failing that the garage I work for is only across the water in Fareham.

I'm a MOT tester. Does he use a computerized machine or is it a hand held job he use's to do the emissions test?

There is no emissions data for a Fairlady Z anywhere on any UK MOT database, the MOT guy should do it as non-cat test no matter what year it is as there is no data on record.

They look like the tie rods for the front/main rack not to replace the rear HICAS ones.

That should get them out :smash::smash: I end up cutting the centers out with a hole saw the splitting the outer cage. All the tracking & wheel alignment it done with the arms, so as long as you don't remove them everything should be as it was when you took the frame off.

I tried SCP pannels for stuff for my S13, they said they don't do much stuff for Nissan. You should be able to get them from NIssan, but won't be cheap.

Don't need any jig, just undo the 4 nuts (remove the prop, handbrake cables & put the calipers up out of the way) then drop the thing on the floor. Have fun doing the bushes, I've done a few & they're a pain in the bum.

I bet my plie of bits bets yours:D:wack:http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-projects-builds/51452-project-d-i-m.html I can't match your Porsche, but I have got got a stripped out 2 seat 200SX, witch is pretty much the same thing:D:D:D:D

No worries mate. Now the fun can start, just remember at some point you need to say no to "doing just one more little bit":wack: Stu

jmwuk - The offers there if you need someone to have a look over it. If you want to get hold of me, my E-mail is big.st.u@hotmail.co.uk. Al's on 19's - Hi mate, I was wondering where you had gone. Yours is nice, put my slighty pink one to shame anyway:wack:, I spotted a black pos uk spec one a few mounths ago but none others. My conversions coming along, got the engine & gearbox mounted, all the glass removed & the interiour cleaned out. Started cutting the front turrets to swap in S13 front suspension.

Where have all these Z's been hiding. I spend most of my time traveling between Gosport-Fareham-Portsmouth & have only seen one other Z about. If you need someone to do a comp test give me a shout, I'll get the stuff from work. Stu

Just looking at my options at the mo. I wanted to dump the heater so I could extended the cage though the bulkhead onto the front turrets, the blower motor is in the way. But if I can get a heated front screen it's not a problem anymore.

Cheers for the info. Any idea of a rough price?

Hi. Does anybody know if either a later spec (mine's a 90 import) Z came with heated front screen or if there's a after market heated screen available? Looking to get rid of the heater on my track project, but still want a demist setup for road driving. Cheers Stu

Cheers for the offer mate, but I'm looking for a re-con one. The rest of the steering is new/re-con so a re-con rack only seams right. Stu

Hi all. Does anybody know where I can get a re-con steering rack? Cheers Stu

If you've got center caps that cover the wheel nuts, the MOT tester will never know whats under there as we're not allowed to remove anything, not even hub caqps to check brakes. So if he can't see how many nuts you have, oh er, then he can't fail it. Just make sure theres no movement between the wheel & hub.

Thanks