siraff

Not a problem - it just takes a while because I know all the connectors, bolts, etc are more than likely going to be a pain to undo. Once it's been done once and copper greased it'll be easy the next time it needs it.

Well it's no worse an add than loads of others on ebay. He knows it's not 500bhp - he's just trying to hook a naive buyer who's only experience of a fast car is his mate's 1.25 fiesta that can hit 95mph even with four yoofs in it (after 5 miles of motorway). It's an easy sell if he finds a kid who's just got hold of a credit card. Take them round the block and boot it - car sold without them even looking at it properly just because it scares them. What I don't understand is how they keep getting away with it. It's most common on jap turbo stuff but any of the usual suspects get it. The amount of imprezas at 350/400bhp is amazing when you think of what that actually involves for most of them. I would have thought it should be called false advertising and should have been clamped down on by now. Obviously if the car's within 10/15% it's close enough but adding 2/3 again is taking the mick quite a bit.

Hmm. One stuck bolt? Sounds like I'd have to be very lucky then - every time I've taken them off there have been a lot of stuck bolts. I never thought of that to be honest because the motor's usually out anyway when I mess with them. Looks like I'll have to get the hoist out again.

Hello, all - it's been a long time but I've been offered another Z so it looks like I'll be getting my hands dirty again. Just a quick one - which turbo can you do with the engine in place and which can't? I'm thinking it's the left (passenger side) one that's a pain but I can't remember. Also is there anyone doing good deals on slightly larger turbo's these days? Typically I sold pretty much all my Z bits off at the end of last year as I couldn't see me using them. I kept seeping Z's that were either too pricey or complete wrecks so kind of gave up then this one pops up out of nowhere. :thumbup1:

It should read minus at tickover (vaccuum) so it sounds like one or more of the pipes you blocked off was not helping. The oil only turbo's aren't standard Z but if it made 650bhp they wouldn't be anyway. As mentioned the piston going down is more likely from detonation than running rich. Given that be very careful with it until it's set up properly again. It could be something as silly as it's got big injectors and someone replaced one with stock. Or it could be where someone's wound the boost up and the fueling system can't match the air going through - like I say, be very careful until it's been on a rolling road to check the fueling under load. I've duffed an engine in the past (strangely the same piston) through getting carried away with the boost.

I have long thought "what if" about the Z. Like what if nissan had decided to develop it instead of the skyline? I think a 300kg lighter 330bhp 4wd Z would have been kind of cool. Its also naturally better aerodynamically and has a flatter footprint. I always think nissan missed a trick there.

Agreed. I'd say it would be easier to be consistent without it.

I've never seen the point. It does so little that its hardly useful and makes the car behave in a very odd manner. I've heard a lot of stories about why its on there and what it does but the fact is that I've tried the car with and without - its more trustworthy without and there's the bonuses of less weight and less to go wrong. Tech for tech's sake IMO.

Oh and on topic - I think they're underrated as they're seen as a heavy old car that costs a fortune to keep and modify/repair. This means that the young 'uns can go out and buy a tart box like an impreza for a couple of grand, mess it about a bit for another £1-2k and have a car that accelerates harder, stops better and turns better. There's also racing and film heritage. The skyline won pretty much everything it was entered for and the impreza/evo have had a rally thing going for years. The Z was never really raced outside of japan - a bit in america but wasn't dominant so never had its laurels to show. As for film placement - F+F did it for supras and RX-7's. So there's not been the great uproar over them that there has over other similar cars. In my opinion the RX-7 handles better - its more chuckable. The supra has the better engine. Its stronger from the factory and easier/cheaper to get more power. The GTO is a big heap of steaming dog mess that feels like its got a lot of power until you look at the speedo (or the car overtaking you). The Z sits in its own little space not really biting to any of it. To me its by far and away the best GT car from that era as its trying to be a GT car - not a racetrack refugee or a dyno monster. It was designed to be the best car that nissan could build at the time - not to win races or to have silly numbers - just to be the nicest to drive. I think they did well. The supra might have big dyno numbers and is slightly (very slightly) quicker but it feels like a big lazy boat to drive and only seems happy on the throttle. The RX-7 can corner well but loses out in ride quality, has absolutely no guts at all and no room for your shoulders. The GTO is still a steaming pile of dog mess.

A standard Z vs a 997 turbo (porsche) is a no match. Unless the porsche driver is missing a throttle pedal and some eyes its going to make the Z look silly. Alanz - what spec's yours mate? Mine was at 480ish bhp (412@wheels). It was a decent run for my mates 997T in a straight line but braking and cornering - no chance.

cheers for that mate. i thought it was looking a bit more spruce. think i'll go have a nosey around.

would they be any use to anyone for a leather re-trim? could use your seats while they re-do theirs (so wouldnt need to take the car off the road)?

Hi all. i havent been on here for a while and it seems like the site has changed a bit? lots of the lower forums are locked and it looks a little different. Anyone got the number to Z-world? Thanks. Simon.

looks exactly the same as the passenger lock on mine after the same thing. the worst thing to my mind is that jap locks (and Z's are no exception) are known for being poor. anyone that knows even vaguely how they work could open them with no damage. as it is i need a new handle and lockset and might have to find a door too. boils my blood.

ok. i havent had time to get another look at it yet (been run off my feet). i'll try to have a look tomorrow or tuesday (depends on workload). anyone want a diff/rear subframe? not sure if its N/A or TT diff (it was a TT engine in an N/A car. its a non hicas back end if anyone needs anything? its all in bits if anyone knows the numbers on the different ones. i'll be weighing it in on monday if no one wants it. also have the front subframe/brakes/etc but not sure the subframe's straight. this is all from the car the engine came from. also have doors. tailgate and bonnet in red. all i need back is the window motor from the drivers door. its all free but a donation to make up for the weight would be appreciated.

nope. thats why we had to wire it direct. we thought there was a break in the feed to it (didnt change the cars loom) when we didnt hear it. tried 2 CAS on it. neither give injector pulse when turned. :( had another loo at the connector and it looked fine. cleaned it with carb cleaner, WD40, a wire brush and some rag. still the same. i've thought of breaking it for bits more than once. i know i wont want to when its up and running (but i'll still have to sell one of them) but its getting to me now. i've not had a problem take this long to sort on any car/bike i've ever owned.

ok. tried the batterys off the bmw and the minibus. same result. the battery on the Z was charged before starting anyway but i thought i'd try. trie turning CAS but no clicking and still no fuel in cylinders (dry plugs). Anthonyd: cheers for the link but how do you open a pdf? im not comp minded. lol

only no AFM which is right as we left it off for the first start. yes mate. we've even tried holding the sides in to make sure its seated all the way. we've tried different ECU's too (the original turbo one, the N/A one and a JD mapped manual TT one). we put £10 petrol in after it went on easy start as we thought it may be low. that made no difference. we couldnt hear the pump, so wired it direct too. pump was going but still no inj pulse. checked signal to coil packs and injectors and not getting any. that would say ECU to me but i've got 4 and i know 3 of them work (not seen the N/A one working so couldnt say). that would explain the running without spark then. shame as it sounded nice when it did go.

swapped the ECU with the motor mate. about the only bit we didnt swap was the in car loom.

hi all. i've been head scratching for ages now over what to do with my auto. we swapped a TT engine, 'box, etc into an N/A car and cant get it to run. at first when we tried it we got it to fire on easy start but now it just wont have it. somethings not right with the electrics. we had to wire the starter direct from the ignition for it to work. no idea what it could be anymore (swapped CAS, played with all the earths and plugs, etc) so is there anyone in this neck of the woods that could have a look? if not it'll be for sale to the first reasonable offer. its been sitting a few months since the conversion so now i just want it to work so i can sell it or i'll sell it off cheap. anyone wants to earn a few beer tokens and have a look at it please let me know. im on siraff@msn.com or 07930 168 603. thanks in advance. simon.

wednsefield or low hill depending on which Z it is mate. lol the one im struggling with is wednesfield. we got the engine/'box in no problem but it wouldnt run. we tried a direct feed to the starter and it turned but wouldnt run unless on easy start. swapped ecu's and it doesnt want to run at all now. now the engine's a TT but its in an N/A car so we're thinking of taking out the dash loom and checking it against the other loom from the TT car. it ran great in the other car.

hi all. i had to break a red TT LWB a month or 2 ago and kept the wings, doors and rear hatch. also got the diff/subframe/etc so if anyone wants anything let me know. can deliver for beer tokens which is all most of the stuff will cost anyway. im on 07930 168 603 also, if anyone is in the wolverhampton/surrounding areas or if anyone can point me to why the engine doesnt want to run in the new car then i'd be very greatful. cheers. si.

you know the parts are overpriced when there's people breaking good cars for spares. shame.

i was thinking about that for a bit and i've come to the conclusion that i could run a 300bhp cossie on a fair bit less money than a Z even after taking a re-build in every 2 years or so. hmmm....

that doesnt sound like what i meant. what i meant is its like on the back of wiper blade packets where it says "fits ...." then a list of cars/makers. i'd think the rubber bit of the mount is one from about 50 different types in the world and there will be a fair few motors using it. the metal bits of the mounts are cast in different ways to meet the rubber so it would be the same points of stress on the mount for pretty much any RWD V-engine?