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Yes BUT very tricky to get in there without scratching them up. I practiced fitting them and removing them a dousen times before painting them so i could get them in there safley. Only scratched near where the pas pot is but it cant really be seen once its fitted. one of the hardpipes had to be removed and fuse box menouved and tied out of the way including the little obverflow filler tube to slide the skin inplace. The pas pot obviously had to be removed and the screen wash tube removed. The turret skins i needed to removed the strut bar the boost gauge box thing the brake brace and bracket for cable, the small fuse box undun and moved out the way and the pther little box thing i duno what it is lol. The fuel filter removed and bracket then the pipe slightly bent out the way and held down with something and what ever is in thge way. I have bypassd alot of sh1t around those areas so i cant really say of the top of my head.

correct, All painted the correct colour, had to get rid of that ugly paint work underneath well at least hide it lol. quality fitment it good apart from around the wings as it didnt line up perfectly. I masked up and painted the wing where its screwed down to the chassis and just behind where it meets the windscreen, its nice and new looking. i also painted the pas pot black and cut off the bracket that secures it to the chassis next to the suspension turret, its now held on with one front screw and its plenty as the hoses keep it secured enough already. Repainted the balance bar gloss black as it had chip marks from working on the engine so much, moving things here and there u get what i mean. relocated the big fuse box bracket and cut of the lug that screws into the chassis to get get a smooth look with less holes, the fuse box is now held down with velcro :D The fuse box has also been lacquered. I also painted the fuel filter bracket nice glossy black, cleaned up the brake brace and lacquered it, I also painted the little bracket that holds the throttle cable in place gloss black.... overkill?:D Gave the engine bay a good clean all round Repainted the throttle cover with tougher paint and gave the cam covers a little polish as they were looking grim. next is a nice shiny new big radiator with cowl as mine is looking rather dull and lets everything elso down :( Ah the blue water hose should be changed to either red or black. Not to forget repainting behind the battery :( need to buy some more gt silver... AND lol i have removed the ugly bracket that holds the offside lambda connector and vvt connector ;) they are now relocated to a safe place. one is mounted where the boost solenoid connector used to stay.

Whats new here? have a guess.....

This months cotm is gunna be a good one bring it on... :D Nice car ;)

take all the plugs out and clean them up also take the fuel pump fuse out and turn it over for a while to rid of the fuel. Then refit see if it starts.

psi valve dont u mean .bar valve :mac1: Check your wobbly shaft isnt bent? To be honest mate its best if you took it to someone who knows the zed engine, we could be here for weeks trying to determine the fault.

Is it a turbo or a non turbo. How does it idle?

Ah then it wont be them arms then lol. What a waste of a post lol.

btw youl now straight away if the arms are hitting as you will notice the marks on the clamps or where ever.

Does it missfire? Going by your previous reply i doubt you would even notice a missfire... Soooooo if its black smoke and lack of power could well be a coil pack or air leak.

I recently had a serious clunk from the front and you know what it was... Coz i have my suspension set so low the arms were adjusted out so much to counter the negative camber and the suspension arm which connects to the top camber arm was hitting the side of the chassis when moving upwards, Its now literally dented the space where it was hitting and can now freely move up and down, crazy lol, If i had of known i would have ground down the arm slightly to make space for it to clear. now i just got to seal it up so it doesn't rust. not saying this is your prob though. but you could always check. Are your lower arm bushings new? Your sway bar drop links could be worn and these would make a nice clunk noise. also check see if your upper camber arms that they have been fitted the correct way round very easy to fit wrong which will indeed make them hit the arm or inside bracket they are connected to, One side should be adjusted longer than the other and the right way round. A good way to check all this is to remove the arm with the bracket still connected then re-enact the movement it makes to see if any of the bits hit anything. When i first fitted my arms i had this prob and took them off to check, the clamps were hitting the arm along with the hexagonal bolt so i needed new bolts :( So i refit everything and all is good ;) Problems are really amplified when you've lowered the car so much.

air leak. Do a leak test.

whats your front spec? Parts etc?

Clunking over bumps? clunk when pulling off? Rear or front? Have you checked the rear lower shock bushings? If they are really worn then they will clunk all day.

They have to be the correct size. Cant remeber from the top of my head, hmmm do a search for the standard bore size and then find out what size the wheel bore is.

Maybe the bore is different but you need to check what they are to determine what spigot size you need. Maybe they are striaght fit you never know. Think my fronts are et32 and i have a 20mm spacer on the front but thats coz i needed to clear my brake calipers as i have larger disks, cant remember the rears now!!! Them spacers are going to be a ball ache if they are not hubcentric with the centre ring! youl also find that the fronts 15mm spacers wont even go on coz there wont be enough thread to even start on :( What your going to need is either a 20mm bolt on hubcentral spacer for them fronts or a 15mm hubctric ring spacer with longer studs and the rears i Duno :( mine are both et32 and the rears didnt need anything to fit apart from the spigot rings.

Told ya ;) Depends how thick they are, If the spacers are thick enough to cover the hub ring so the wheels dont catch on it anymore then yes they will wobble, JFYI my wheels required spigot rings to match the stock hub size, anyway You sure you even need spacers? Whats the offset?

It really bugs me toooooooo, Looking to do a swapsy with someone with a red one??????

Yeah, basically for a smooth downshift so the rear wheels dont loose traction. Practice makes perfect.

Yeah it is a bit tricky, When the brake is being pressed down quite firmly the throttle then becomes closer so blipping it becomes easier with your heel, Its hard to blip it for example if your harldy braking as its miles away, Easy thing to do would be to adjust the pedals and buy some aftermarket pedals which have a larger edge on the throttle pedal making them closer?

It wont help you go any quicker though, probably slower, but its kind to the syncros. Learn to heel and toe if anything.

I bought from them also alan.

depends what ya got? You can fit pillow ball mount jobbies that rid of the rubber and replace with a bearing for no sag at all in the suspension making it easier to setup the weight/height in each corner if running on coilovers of course. I think they are only available to certain coilovers. Have a look.

Id also like to thank jeff for having a gander at my motor even though my problem is still a mystery hes a very knowledgeable chap who really knows his stuff. Il be booking mine in, in the near future for a proper investigation :D All the best :D

oh i might aswell then :D