j1mmytt

isnt mt90 only recomended for gearboxes with worn syncros and worn bearings, or it will cause premature wear to a good box... no?

you need to drill through the middle of the bolt... somehow, i dunno how your going to get to it from behind... I cant remmember how it looks..... can you drill from the front? anyway you will need a good drill and drill pieces start small and work your way up. start from 1mm

Have a look at all the frame welds to see if any are not factory. give it a good ride, let go of handle bars to see if its going straight. Another thing with a bent frame is that the rear will want to move to either the left or right under heavy braking so check that too. But you can tell if its been down the road by looking at the steering stoppers on both sides see if one has a abnormally big mark on it where the handle bars have smacked the ground and made a mark on them. I love the r1 i had the 2002 injection model.

gumtree.com

If your talking about the oem bushings on the tension rods they are not poly they are rubber ones filled with a sticky silicon (sorry cant spell) but yes the oem ones do tend to split vey easily so uprated would be the best option as they are stronger and cheaper. You can get a rebuild kit for brembos, ive seen a website who sell all the kits, hopefully someone will find the link for you. if the brembos are new then why would they have bad pistons? The seals are what wear, the pistons can be cleaned and rubbed down a bit. If i was you i would jack up the car and have a look to see if one of the bushings is leaking. They are really easy to see. The tension rods are attached to the bottom arm and the other end with the bush is to the front of the car just beside the intercooler pipes.. i think.

Definatly get the ones that suit your needs, youl just be kicking yourself that you didnt save that extra bit more to get the ones you wanted.

:hyper:

Ive got tein ha's and i dunno why everyone says there are sooooo harsh, They are perfect for me, maybe a little scary over the pot holes but when you get onto the smooth tarmac roads its a dream:D Id say for go the incar adjustables if ya got the money they are well worth it... i have to jack mine up to adjust which is rubbish coz id like to be able to raise it up to get on me drive... maybe in the future when ive saved up more ££££ il be placing an order for the tein edfc's:hyper:

Depends how much you have lowered it by. if youve only dropped 15mm i wouldnt worry about it too much as you can adjust the rears camber slightly... (i think 1 degree) but the front cannot be adjusted unless you buy shims or the lovely expensive shiny arms priced from 100-250 depending on make. Now the caster is different, its how far forward or backwards front wheels sit,a you NEED to buy adjustable tension rods if your cars been loweered alot coz you risk tearing your bottom arms, coz once you adjust the fronts camber to compensate for the lowering theres more of a twisted setup than stock, everything sits differently, and tyre wear wont be fun either.

the caster, the camber, front/rear toe. mine is almost complete..... just waiting on caster adjusters and need my arches rolled so i can pull the camber out a bit.

am i correct in saying if you install much stiffer springs on a softer shock, the shock will become near useless, the soft shock cannot dampen quick enough for the stiff spring or something along those lines.

I just hope it all works out well..

You mean that time you drugged me? I thought you didnt? you batty bastad

oh dear.... here we go :D

yes you must wait 10 mins for oil to settle back down again before reading the dipstick.

hmmmm JD happy bday

yeah but red is faster.

gd 2 c ya d'in ye bst 2 kp dis forum proper bo selecta.

Go on son nice work so far,, i didnt realise you were doing yourself?

safety boost dont get me started with saftey boost grrrrrr. theres a number or reasons why the ecu could put you in saftey. detonation. knock sensor fault/wiring/connection. and a few more...... legrath?

Well i love it .:D

Have you bleed out the old fluid replaced with new? you should, imagine if the fluid is 10 years old i doubt it will be good enough and prob black with dirt/water. recon the calipers with new seals cleaned the pistons? The new pads will also need bedding in a bit. If you have bigger wheels on the brakes will need that extra bit more stopping power to lock up the brakes or for the abs to engage. i noticed a great difference when i cleaned up my calipers and replaced standard hoses with braided and fitted a brake brace. But mine still take that extra bit longer for abs to kick in. This is why its so popular to fit a bigger setup, bigger calipers and disks.

These things are the biggest load of shite ive ever heard of. The resistor just tricks your ecu into thinking the air is colder, in turn the ecu injects more fuel, but its crap coz more fuel doesnt necessarily mean youl go faster, you have to have the correct amount of air flow too. Most likely to run like crap. Avoid that crap honestly mate its just a stupid branded bodge.

Dont touch anything, take it back to whoever built the engine. find out whats wrong, Let them sort it out. If its an engine fault that should have not happened then they are liable if still under warranty so dont worry about it too much bud its only a bloody engine. maybe you should get someone else besides the garage to have a little look to see exactly whats wrong, that way the other lot cannot bullshit you into thinking its not one of their doings.