Dysan

Just rolled in last night, the light had been on permanent for 5 miles with 326 on the clock. First time I've ever seen the light too. I currently do a 140 mile round trip 3 days a week to client site. Strangely, I seem to get more MPG sat at 85 on cruise that at 70. Using BP Ultimate. I'm generally getting 25mpg.

It looks like all the 2 DIN stuff on Z32-Zone is now out of production. This may help you navigate the site. Just used Google translate on it and surprisingly it reads pretty well. http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.z32-zone.com/&ei=fgg1T89PwYfyA76oocQC&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDIQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dz32-zone%26hl%3Den%26biw%3D1265%26bih%3D680%26prmd%3Dimvns Lots of cool stuff though.

Common fault on them. When I first got mine, no aftermarket gauges fitted, on the motorway, looked down at the gauge is reading zero. Panic mode! I've put an aftermarket one in now because apparently even if you replace the sender at £60 a pop, they don't last that long.

I thought it was only me that couldn't read the bl00dy things.

I've used part worns before (not on the Zed) and they've been ok. I thought a lot of them came in from Germany as they're not allow to fix any punctures on tyres what-so-ever.

Agh! They will eventually just ban anything modified, bikes and cars or just change the rules so it becomes impossible to comply. What annoys me more though is that I guarantee that the UK will be the only ones that actually tries to enforce it. The French and Spanish will publish the rules and then everyone will just ignore them.

Modern technology eh. Good till it goes wrong. Sorry I can't help more, mine is simples, a battery with enough juice to get it over two compressions and something that vaguely resembles diesel and it'll go. Sounds like a tractor tho

I don't know about the TD5 I'm afraid but both the 200tdi and 300tdi had self bleeding injector pumps (Pump to injectors). The older ones had a nut on the top of the injector pump and a manual lift pump to bring fuel through. If its to the pump you replaced the seal and there's no manual, find the bleed screw and get someone to turn it over with the bleed open, when it starts to fire shut it off (watch your eyes cause it'll spray all over).

Not into the romper suits then :no: lol

Yes am a biker, but adventure rider so normally textiles for me. You tried going across to J&S in Doncaster? They normally have rails of 1 piece suits in different price ranges. RST stuff as well.

My cable has pins missing and 8 seems about right, without going outside to count them. I'm presuming you're talking about the one near the bonnet pull? I believe the dial thing is to turn the ECU into diag mode. There should be an LED near it.

I'm running VMware fusion on my Mac and the Conzult software runs fine (along with others). Just a pity I can't understand what its telling me :confused1:

Didn't realise there was a procedure. :confused1: All I've done is set the laptop into logging mode and driven around allowing enough time for it to warm up, then done some straight roads, cruise control on to allow the engine to settle itself for a bit. I've then looked at the logs in the house to see what was going on.

I've been out for a nice little drive.....with my laptop in logging mode and found the following. [ATTACH]62333[/ATTACH] I think my LH O2 sensor is lazy, it seems to take it twice as long to come up with similar figures to the RH one. Right now the coil pack wiring is so brittle and dodgy I daren't disturb it until I get some more connectors and replace it all but I've checked using the balance test on the diag that all 6 cylinders are firing fine. Could a lazy O2 sensor cause the issues I'm getting? Unfortunately the fried CAT light only ever comes on after a sustained motorway run, something I've been unable to replicate today. I have the log from the OBD Scan Tech (Nissan) software if anyone has the software and can have a better look at the data for me. Thanks

After taking on a contract some distance away and handing my hire car back last week, the Z has been pressed into service for some serious miles over the next 8 weeks. 140miles a day, 3 days a week. After hopefully sorting my smoking exhausts out (oil weep from sump plug washer) I've got a new one, the Cat overheat light. Problem is the car doesn't appear to be missing and seems to be running fine, although it does feel a little lumpy at idle, but never when driving. I've had this issue before but before I could track it down it went again. Car is returning an average of about 23-24mpg so fuel economy isn't horrific but I'd hoped for better sitting on the motorway. I'll connect the conzult tomorrow and drop off the coil packs individually and see what happens. Any idea's on where to start? I'll get it on the ramps to check the condition of the sensor wiring as I'm thinking false alarm at present. Cheers

Good to meet you all, we'll have to try another one when its unlikely hypothermia will set in.:yes: A sunny day at the coast perhaps.

Would have come through to meet you all but I've just pulled some bits off the car for painting.

I believe the autobox will also not allow overdrive to be engaged until the fluid is warmed up. I just drive mine but just keep it steady until the oil pressure gauge is reading normal for a known rpm. Then I can put my lead boot back on :biggrin:

Its down to weight distribution more than anything else. On my trailer I can't get the Zed positioned properly and that causes it to start weaving much above about 55mph. Other cars that weigh about the same with the same trailer and tow car pull much better. The same will happen with a caravan. It'll tow fine usually when empty as the manufacturer intended, as soon as you fill it with all your crap in the wrong place, it'll start misbehaving.

dysan - Lee - Middlesbrough - JDM 1990 2+2 Auto TT

I'll give it a bash. I'll even do a write up, done a few before on other things. http://www.lifes-adventures.co.uk/?p=121 Thought I'd sorted it. One of the hose clamps was a bit loose but I'm still getting the odd whiff of fuel when its warming up so I think its time to do a proper job. Thanks for the tips.

That's the one. Being tight I'd looked at that idea and didn't fancy my chances. Don't really want the car laid up if I completely nacker the hose and then have to wait for the gaskets because I can't get it off. I'll order them and try without, then if it needs to come off no problem, if not, sure I'll need them at some point so they'll stay on the shelf. Cheers

Doh try this link instead Zcentre

Hi, I'm trying to confirm a part number and the parts catalog I've found isn't helping much. Due to brittle and leaking fuel pipes I've almost replaced all of them on the car now but one in particular is leaking a little but its the one at the front of the engine between the 2 fuel rails and I can't get to it without removing the throttle assemblies. What I mean by that is there are the 2 butterflies on the front of the plenum which are connected to each other and to the throttle and Cruise cables. I think this is right one. Anyone confirm? http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=105&category_id=69&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7

A massive shame, he's been so entertaining to watch this season and has been making great progress with recent podiums. My thoughts are with the family, friends, Rossi and Edwards. RIP Marco