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JeffTT

Standard Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by JeffTT

  1. The term "Disk warp" is often wrongly used as in most cases the effects ie.shaking steering brake pulsing etc is due to pad imprint. This is where pad material adheres to the disc face in uneven levels causing highs and lows that can be felt on the brake pedal. Mostly this is caused by excessive pad material temp been forced beyond its max working temp, this itself can be caused by poor quality pads, wrong applications or seized calipers. Good caliper and brake system maintenance is the key, ensure calipers are free and the use of branded pads as well avoiding sitting at junctions or in traffic for long time with your foot on the brake pedal. Jeff TT
  2. Given the low cost of good used ones against high recondition cost best bet is to stick it into on of these............ Jeff TT
  3. Unreal how such a simple fault was causing such problems, a real lesson in not going too technical sometimes, the loom position error was masking the issue slightly as it was short and tight over the offending coil pack, the ecu was receiving corrupted signals and been back fed on two circuits so hence the poor running and the bizzare running without an afm connected. Once correctly plugged in all was in order again and running fine, a few moment readjusting a couple of settings and she as purring like a cat, the lack of detectable misfire though remains a slight mystery. Anyway nice one Quavey for guessing right ( with a few hints) and well done all of the rest for making this thread interesting! want another one? Jeff TT
  4. Mmm...there was an issue with part of the loom on the passenger side that should go under the balancer bar and was wrongly routed over the bar......( clue ) Jeff
  5. No, it was all ok before the plenum pull. Jeff
  6. :oops: never thought of that.....:biggrin: Jeff
  7. Cool thinking there matey, in fact I was on the same train of thought especially as there was no fault code, however when unplugged with the engine running the engie cut out and had to be restarted so something was changing when it was unplugged?? Jeff
  8. nope! ......... still have the over revving with afm disconnected!! Jeff
  9. No, well, erm, :whistling: Jeff
  10. Top marks !!!! Jeff
  11. Well not a bad chip or bad ecu ( was swapped out anyway) but.................:whistling: Jeff
  12. Back again was catching up with the Xfactor.........yes I know :tongue_smilie: Jeff
  13. Nope.... different plugs. Jeff
  14. Some cool theories but non correct yet, no air leaks, but this engine ran up to 6k revs with the afm unplugged remember aand no fault code, a clue was in the non working 02 sensor, this remained blank even when unplugged. Jeff TT
  15. Nobody even close yet:lol: Jeff
  16. So here we have a technical fault that was dealt with in the workshop recently, thought it may be interesting to see what you guys would make of it and see if maybe we have a budding technician or a right good guesser among the membership!! I can tell you this is a weird fault with a surprising conclusion, read it all through before making any conclusions. So let start with some background first, a standard non turbo running well with no major issues that developed a small water leak, the owner with some tech help from Jamie here and some pipes removed the plenum and replaced the offending pipes, the work seem to go well but once all back together the first start up was less successful. The owner went over his work and with the exception of switching the coil pack connections on number 4 and 6 cylinder could find nothing to cause the non starting. However with a fresh battery charge and some long starter motor action eventually it started, this is where we gave some further advice on checking vacuum pipe connections, electrical connections etc. at this point it was realised the det sensor and near side variable valve timing solenoid connectors were the wrong way around and so with these correctly plugged in the owner happy to do a road test. This is where it all went wrong! the performance was terrible with a huge performance loss, lethargic acceleration coupled with a low tickover, and a sheer reluctance to rev when stationary and in neutral. The next stop for the owner was a very slow drive to the workshop for us to take a look. So as mentioned this was very poorly running zed, as we knew the plenum had been off and the potential for air leaks after we went straight for a leak check. In all fairness there was a couple of small leaks and one major one where an air pipe had been left disconnected under the plenum on the n/side. Further checks of the smaller vacuum pipes found the egr valve incorrectly connected and so this was sorted and confidently the engine was started, but argh!!! exactly the same! no improvement at all, static revving the engine just produced this weird really slow build in engine revs whether the throttle was opened slowly or wide open, a seriously muffled sound from the exhaust. So to recap, the engine has serious performance issues, but will not rev, now we know there is no air leaks, no pipe work errors, no misfires on odd smelly exhaust was no surprise because clearly something's no right but either way time for the ConZult. ConZult screen One So here is the first screen shot, for the uninitiated the there is a fair bit of info on it that is important and some not to worry about but in short there is a faulty O2 sensor a good timing reading ( confirmed with a timing gun) a high iavc ( idle control ) valve reading but the temp is only 67C so again not to worry about yet, BUT take a look at the injection pulse 4.03 ms !!! this is practically double what it should be, but with a an A/F reading of 108 % it could be easy to miss it as excessive enrichment. High injection pulse can be cause by air leaks due to the readings at the air flow meter been corrupted by the leaks or and very common a failed afm can give poor or corrupted readings that are still in its total range so hence no fault code error readings. ConZult screen Two So trying to keep it brief the next screen shot is some time on, lots of things have been checked again and again including timing, air leaks , vacuum pipes, throttle balance tps o2 sensors disconnected and reconnected, spark plugs checked cambelt timing checked all with no improvement. So this particular screen shot shows an amazingly odd set of readings if you look at the part throttle tps reading against the actual engine revs of 3,700, this again was a hard, slow and lethargic engine that was slow to pick up. The injection pulse of 12.5ms is worrying so was the awful smell coming from the exhaust serious incomplete combustion, luckily we have a very well ventilated workshop!! A split second after this screen shot without any more throttle opening the engine revs to over 6k very suddenly, releasing the throttle the revs dropped to idle, each time we tried the it the same thing happened. Now this is all very odd but even more so when you consider that we had the air flow meter disconnected at this stage!!!! yes that's right an engine revving at 3,700 and upwards with the air flow meter disconnected. AFM Disconnected So now we have moved up a gear with an engine that does not respond to the expected fault finding procedures as with the afm disconnected the engine should not rev pass 2,500rpm, oh and no fault code appeared in the ecu memory. Ok guys so what do you think? just a little bit of fun, I doubt anyone would guess the exact cause of the fault because it was a bit bizzare in a simple way but had big repercussions. So to recap. Poor engine performance Very slow resonding revs Odd smell to exhaust Swapped checked AFM ECU TPS Timing checked Cambelt checked Leak check Abilty to rev to 6k with out an air flow meter Jeff TT
  17. Annoyingly dont get much time spare to take out the old girl, even here I was not at the helm, as of course I was in my helipcopter taking the photo.:biggrin: The side arms are good fun though, gets you a clear beach in no time. Jeff TT
  18. Here you go PERFECT!! Jeff TT
  19. Based on your calculations and theorism I have extrapolated the data information, added a measured quantam dielectric constant, this has been inputed into Deep Blue the worlds most powerful computor, and in a worlds first it has produced a working picture for you below Enjoy :D Jeff TT
  20. Bet not many of us changed these filters on our zeds?? Jeff TT
  21. Diff light is fitted on the UK spec cars and not the Jap spec zeds so thats the confusion. the fill and drain plugs are on the sides of the diff not the back, looks like a square recessed plug, a 1/2inch ratchet will fit fine. Check around the diff area first see if its dry, if so then its unlikely the oil is low. The diff warning light can come on due to faulty cables and or connections to the two sensors on the rear of the dif, also alternator faults and low battery charge circuit can cause the same problem, had a flat battery recently? Also check the fuse marked "engine Cont" in the relay/ fuse box under the bonnet on the passenger side inner wing, the fuse is a red 10 amp and even if it is ok change it for a new one as just a high resistance fuse will cause that circuit to be problematic. Good luck Jeff TT

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