JeffTT

Well said Ian!! thing is the people of NK idolise the nut through either brain washing or by fear of him, pee my self laughing when he tours anywhere the soldiers/people run around waving their arms above there heads when they see him like their ass is on fire !! mainly for fear of not showing their support, dictators come and go but the legacy of their lunacy is always the same. The recent moving of missiles was a public show of strength that is very, very reminiscent of the cold war days when Russia used to parade its apparent huge arsenal of missiles, rockets tanks etc. on the back of trailers for the whole world to see, in later years after the cold war ended it was revealed many of the rockets and tanks were made of wood and cardboard ! but the problem is distinguishing the false from the true, and meanwhile many shaky fingers hover over red "do not touch buttons", I for one do not always condone big powerful countries been heavy with smaller ones and the US (often with support from the UK) are guilty of this but in this case I think an assassination of him and his key government figures would be justified to secure the world peace and release the county men of his tyranny Jeff TT

The non turbo discs are different to the TT ones as the calipers are also different, non turbo discs are available if they try harder or upgrade to TT calipers and then no problem. Jeff TT

Take the elbows off and using a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder cut a V section out where the stud is it will then come out and when re-assebling use nuts and bolts with washers either side, works every time. Jeff TT

You can always change the clutch pedal and master cylinder for new non turbo items, a lot less costly than a new booster and will make the clutch much lighter to depress as the pedal has a different lever point. Jeff

Non of this makes sense, with the cas unit plug undone, the fuel pump will not run as there is no engine start signal, with no pump there is no additional pressure, if the injector was stuck open the fuel pressure would have been leaking fuel all of the time even as you were removing the spark plug and inserting the compression tester which would of been obvious...sounds a bit mixed up. Jeff TT

Yes from Zedworld and YOUR POINT BEEN? Jeff TT

Always happy to help but for your info Zedworld is in Coleshill not Leicester http://www.zedworld.co.uk Jeff TT

Think your talking about the egr pipes deletion under the plenum. Jeff TT

As Mark said its not unusual to see the water feeds removed, given the many series problem caused by water leaks in this area its not a bad idea. Jeff

Great news Paul, you deserve a pat on th back too, and now you know how to change injectors if anyone asks!! Jeff

Never had to do it to be honest, not sure about the clearance on fixings, when I did a manifild gasket on that side last week it looked tight but possible, sorry cannot be 100% sure someone will have done it or tried it. Jeff TT

So fast forward, the dremel work is done and the plastic cap has been pulled off to reveal the steel section that can be grabbed with mole grips and pulled out.. Replacement injector ready to go in So the replacement is checked for a last time and fitted into the fuel rail Worth mentioning, there is a small D shaped insulator under the bridge cap, this needs to be in but has a habit of dropping out as you go to refit it, a small smear of sealant will hold it in place just fine. With screws all firmly down and not much else to refit on this cylinder you can switch on the ignition and pressure up the fuel rail and check for leaks, note: that when starting the engine after an injector change do not be surprised if it takes 30 second or so for the engine to settle down and run sweet again. Jeff TT

Really seeing a trend with failed injectors occuring here, having changed a second one today this week, also have sent out two good used injectors for owners to change themselves, and since January I have done 3 others, cannot be all a chance can it? this particular injector failed during a journey rather than at start up after been shut down overnight which the most common way. Anyhow todays poorly zed had been diagnosed by another garage so I did a few tests myself to be sure and as it happened the original diagnostic was correct, again I thought a few pics may help anyone doing this as this time it was number 2 cylinder so although the basic job approach is the same there is a few differences such as amount of room etc. Jeff TT So pre-tests included identifying the cylinder not working, if the coil pack is firing, if there is an injector signal coming form the ecu and of course the ultimate resistance test on the injector itself. A simple device but saves a whole lot of time when looking for faults, this Mac coil pack and spark plug tester flashes when close to a working coil pack, a second led flashes at a different rate and provides an idea of the plug spark condition... all without taking anything apart!! So all six coil packs are firing and all six plugs have a good blink rate. To test the injector output trigger signal from the ecu you need a "noid light" this is a small unit that plugs in to the injector electrical connector and then the engine is started, a steady blink that increases with revs is a good signal from the ecu, so that proves all good with the ecu and wiring loom. So again we see the test meter and a resistance check confirms an open circuit injector, so bring out the dremel again !! So the hidden screw issue is the same with no 2 cylinder, the space between the plenum is a bit tighter here so getting the dremel in is a little harder than the no 6 one I did the other day. Continue....

10w 40 semi synthetic any good brand just change it regular. The noise is the ABS unit doing a quick built in test. Jeff TT

Yes, weird as the plenum seems to have little in when we originally inspected it before removing the engine, but it came out pure water from the sump when we drained it for about 3 or 4 seconds then oil. When we turned the engine upside down we ended up getting a bowl to catch the water coming out of the turbo`s and the plenum! Jeff

Remember back in December this little gem of a problem....... A nice zed arrived this evening at the workshop via the AA, the sticker on the windscreen illustrates the perils of driving in bad weather, left it unchecked as time was getting on, so will see what tomorrow brings...have a bad feeling though....shame. Jeff TT Well as the insurance got involved and Christmas got in the way we had to wait until we had the ok to start, we removed the engine and finally got onto looking into the problem of the seized crank. With the sump drain of water and oil mix the engine was turned upside down and the sump removed, I should mention again the crank was unmovable in either direction so we removed the sump not knowing how much damage to expect. What was very clear is the water has gone through the entire engine with emuslified oil everywhere even the turbo drains are all milky as is the whole bottom end. Checking down the cylinders the rod on no6 looked slightly bent so the bearing cap was removed and the piston moved down to release the rod from the crank, the crank will now rotate so at this point it appears it was just one rod that has bent, but will need to strip the heads off and get all of the pistons out to do a full inspection, shame I could not get a clear picture of the rod, will do a further tech thread of the engine strip over the coming weeks. Keep out of those puddles, you never know how deep they are!!! Jeff TT

If you want to check the injector electrically you need a meter that can read low ohms level, a working injector should read somewhere around 12 to 14 ohm anYthing else and its toast. Jeff TT

So now the excess casting has been removed the screws were able to be removed easily, one tip get a real good fitting screw driver and use a small hammer to tap the screw driver when undoing the screws. Now its not nice but with next to nothing to grab hold of, a pair of mole grips are locked onto the plastic top to pull it off. Now with the plastic removed it reveals a steel centre section that the mole grips can be locked on to now. So with the mole grips locked on a series of twists and pulls and it will come out, its only the rubber seals holding it in but boy are they tight. Fitting the replacement injector needs lots of WD 40 and a firm press down, all fitted its a case of putting the rest back together. A good check around once running to make sure there are no fuel leaks and its good to go, oh and its worth getting new screws and bridge with the replacement injector as they can get damaged by the dremel action. Jeff TT

Have seen a few topics cropping up again about injectors failing and the quicker method of dremeling the plenum to gain access to the fixing screws. Many of the guys reading this may not have a clue what it means and had the opportunity today whilst changing a single injector ( number 6) on a non turbo but the same method applies to the twin turbo. So starting off with the balancer bar removed and loom pulled back. The faulty injector can be seen a little better now The cold run part of the idle control valve removed for even more access. Close up it is now clear how one of the injector cap fixing screws cannot be undone due to the plenum casting in the way. So now you need a dremel or something similar, my chosen weapon is an air burr remover, has a bit more kick than an electric version. Jeff TT

Yes its yours matey. Jeff

The trick with the BMC seals is to bleed the system by NOT pressing the pedal to the floor ( use a piece of wood or similar under the pedal to reduce stoke), that way the seals stay within the swept area they have already moved within, and fluid bleeding is done at the ABS unit only when the master cylinder is removed as the pipes go directly to the abs unit so not that hard. The bolts would most likely be accessable with the booster in place, its just less of a ball ache with it removed, also when the turbo comes out it needs rotating and suspect there would not be enough room. Jeff

The trick with the BMC seals is to bleed the system by NOT pressing the pedal to the floor ( use a piece of wood or similar under the pedal to reduce stoke), that way the seals stay within the swept area they have already moved within, and fluid bleeding is done at the ABS unit only when the master cylinder is removed as the pipes go directly to the abs unit so not that hard. The bolts would most likely be accessable with the booster in place, its just less of a ball ache with it removed, also when the turbo comes out it needs rotating and suspect there would not be enough room. Jeff

The steering arms are readily available and an easy job to change, the hicas eliminator on the other hand is a popular way to go but is more involved and more expensive. If your happy with the Hicas system as many owners are, go with the steering arm, however if you have the time and spanner skills to remove the whole system and replace with say a Driftworks eliminator kit you will never need to change rear steering arms again. Jeff TT

The steering arms are readily available and an easy job to change, the hicas eliminator on the other hand is a popular way to go but is more involved and more expensive. If your happy with the Hicas system as many owners are, go with the steering arm, however if you have the time and spanner skills to remove the whole system and replace with say a Driftworks eliminator kit you will never need to change rear steering arms again. Jeff TT

and with some ( lots and lots of ) fiddling and twiddling and as if by magic the turbo is out!!! With the manifold nuts now easy to get to, the cause of all of the grief .... the blown manifold gasket! Now just to put it back together......