bornrebel

please, cool it dude... 1. your car would not be on sale for 2k... 2. i wouldn't have come to look at your car in the first place because it would have been expensive for me, price and insurance... 3. i can from the work you've had carried out on your car see that you have loved it in a big way 4. that does not mean that i have to have the same taste as you, as per bodystyling 5. why are you telling me to piss off for giving a guy who is buying his first 300zx for ***£2000*** (and by the sounds of it his first performance car) the best advice i possibly can... isn't that what this forum is here for? have you honestly seen any of the £2k cars on the market inthe last 6 months? well i've seen few - and i can tell you for FACT that many of them are not worth the money *IN MY OPINION*, UNLESS YOU ARE READY TO SPEND ANOTHER £2K ON THEM - IN WHICH CASE WHY NOT GET A £4K car in the first place? come on, man - i said nothing wrong at all and i'm honestly getting very upset with these sorts of replies... leave me in the middle of nowhere? really... :slap:

And that, my friend, is what democracy and forums are all about... I really only know most of this because after having looked for a car from MAR07 to AUG07 I saw so much utter crap that i realised it's time to look at this forum much much more closely... there is nothing really new there except a couple of my own personal opinions - some people may find a car that's specced up exactly how they want it... condition is whole different story... plus, let's not be too stringent, honestly i wouldn't mind buying a car that had larger wheels on (especially if the owner held on to the originals, which indicates to me he's the one who fitted those wheels - not one of the previous 10 owners :) )and an exhaust - especially a good one helps engine breathing - hardly damages it! even a good chip i wouldn't mind. what i'm refering to is the boost barstewards - who up the boost with a controller and don't change anything else except maybe chips and filters... often pushing those turbos way past the pressure they can possibly take and maintain good working order *for a while*. again there are really *REALLY* amazing upgrades on members cars here that I am 100% positive are very carefully and well thought out and carried out by (professionals often the owners), but this fellow is looking for a £2k car and those cars are £8k+++++... I mean steve300zx has his horsepower uprated and some mods done and wheels - but look at that car! i mean really - you know that the person who has a car that pristine is *NEVER* gonna do anything that might damage it - you could eat off it - interior and exterior!.. and a coupla of those 500bhp cars - HOLY SHEET! i mean - you know those guy love their cars so much they would never do anyting to damage them, well intentionally anyway, for the simple fact that for that £20k to maybe even £50k that i think one car in particular must have cost over the years - they could have got a ferrari 360 or a porker or really anything else... i was worried my last post might have come off a bit too, how shall i put, judgemental... well it's only my opinion and i will tell you straight off - i don't know 10% of what most members know about 300zx's, but i do know a thing or two about common sense, negotiation, sales, trading, people, psychology, and it's all just experience - in other things, sure - but it's still experience... it's like dustin hoffman says in that "wag the dog" - you take 30 years of mistakes and you call it experience... :smw: I mean let's not forget! This is a £2k-£3k car the man's looking for... and we all know that there are a lot of dead horses out there for that money...

that is a very interesting question - JUMVEA and BIMTA certificates worth anything on JDMs? anyone know?

nah, it's cos there is so much black on the exterior of all zeds already. actually only red one i ever *really* liked was joely p's ... there are bits on it that are photoshopped right? but still - it does look v slick, with the wheels and the tints... :cool: nice one!

ebay Item number: 310010961319 ok guys, i want to buy these. will they fit an s2 jdm '94 lwb? i think they should, but i think as they have bulbs in them they are for us cars only, as those seems to have indicator lights in the side rears... if they do fit - the seller wants payment via bank wire transfer as it's international. if they do fit anyone want me to get them some, too? we'll probably save on shipping. if they don't fit - where can i get the same thing for a jdm car? or at least clear ones like on steve300zx's zed? thanks

I bought my current zed 3 months ago for 3.5k - black jdm s2 '94 auto no leather 58k on the clock. I saw many cars before i picked this one up. I got 4 aa/rac reports done before i bought. When I came to look at it - the seller also had a 30k mileage car in an awful colour 90 s1 in really astonishing condition for £4250. I bought mine as it had the rear spoiler i wanted, was newer 94, was a series2 car, was black and only had 2 interior trim panels making rattling noise. The engine was super sweet, the brake pads needed replacing as did the tyres. I budgeted for those, they are not cheap, proper service and have spent just under another £1000 on it so far. Alarm immob and other things to bring it up to perfect condition should not really be anymore than £500... anything above that that i spend is really just up to personal choice. The mileage on many jap cars is claimed to be clocked by lots of people. I don't know if mine is - but i do know is that my car drives solid, sweet and smooth. If has been clocked, then it was also very well looked after. Also the AA report I got on this car was the cleanest i have ever seen... It was basically half the size of some of the other reports i'd received most notably, a uk car which had so many dents and marks and lots and lots of rust, notes - the car was just not good enough for me. i spent a lot of time and money looking for the right one and even with the new tyres and pads and that sweet engine purring away - i wasn't convinced of the mileage or condition as i'd heard lots of stories and am naturally very sceptical, until - i brought the car over to a forum member who has had quite a few - and let me tell you - when he opened up the bonnet - the look on his face - i knew it - i'd got a good 'un... His exact words were "I'll be glad when mine sounds like that". I think he in the middle of a rebuild. My advice is simple, 1. this is not a cheap car to maintain, with 2k i recommend you get an NA, as late as possible and check the condition. and then check it again. as your first 300zx you can get a good NA for the money and you will doubtless have fewer potential problems. it's not that much less powerful especially in manual form - a real corker. drive it for a while - 1-2 years and by then you will be able to get a decent TT for 3k no prob... 2. test drive! i took an hour long test drive of my final car. The guy selling it wasn't happy, but i was adamant. do the same. take it down different roads, at different speeds, feel the engine, clutch, box, brakes, steering in different conditions. If there is anything that feels off after an hour - walk away no matter what... even if you think you can explain it - walk away... you will be saving yourself money in the long run. I saw one car that seemed ok and drove good, was seriously considering it, but had the aa or rac to a check on it as i felt something was off, specifically with the handling - didn't know what or why - just seemed off ever so slightly. report showed rust in the mid rear underside and front suspension and wheel play... 3. every uk car i have looked at is rusty - now i know lots of people on here have rust free uk cars and i don't dispute it - all i am saying is rust is a problem on uk cars. i was thinking of a uk car for insurance purposes and by the time i saw my fourth uk car i realised that those who have clean uk cars either do not want to sell them or advertise them for £6-8k and they get bought at close to those prices, i.e. out of my price range. My advice is simple - get a jap import. 4. stay away from cars that have been owned by racers... they rape the engines, turbos, clutches, gearboxes - in short, everything. Before people start telling me i am wrong i want this to be clear. this is my opinion only, but i stand by it 100%. They way i tell them apart is simple - if it's modded - stay away. If he's put a turbo timer on it - to me that means the turbos have never had an hour let alone a day off. If he's got boost gauges - they are not just their for show! if he's had a boost controller on it - those turbos have been used at boost levels way above what the engineers at nissan have created the "complete mechanical car system" to be operating at in the long run, leading to excessive wear and tear and potential problems in most major systems within the car much *earlier* than you would expect them on a standard car. also, big high spoilers, aftermarket harnesses, seats, coloured brake pads, huge exhausts indicate this car was used by someone to show off in front of others - chances he was doing this *slowly* are slim... I can't tell you how many 300zx's i've seen and heard swoosh past me in the last 15 years... asshole at the wheel means assholed car mechanics... and it's very very few owners that bother to create a complete SYSTEM upgrade on a car. most of the ones that do seem to be on this site... summarising, and changing the order a little, my advice is simple; 1. get an NA for a coupla years 2. get a jap import 3. get as original a car as possible, THEN do what you want to it... 4. don't bein a rush, look at lots of cars. don't be scared to walk away as odds are you will find a better one during your search (quest may be a better word :smw: ). test drive the car for as long as possible before you buy it, if you even have an unexplainable feeling, but everything looks good - walk away! good luck in your quest and hope to see you on here much much more in the not so distant future... p.s. if you want a targa (which i recommend) get it before April, as prices may go up for summer usage, but then again only a tad... p.p.s. caveat emptor - again don't forget you will always get one if you have cash, once you've bought one you may not always be able to sell it for close to what you paid for it... yes yes i know - unless you break it, but even then... p.p.p.s. crap, i've said too much again... :smw:

i'm probably gonna get told off for going off top here - but those... erm... puppies are amazing! is that you in there, the mr bean fellow... but more importantly are those you puppies? :p now.. ahem... back to on topic for those moderators - so do you think there is a place i could get all of that done in one go if i brought all the parts, too? P.S. for some reason i feel like having a milk flavoured milkshake... mmmm... mmmilky...

oh. my. god. - i just clicked on "click for "eliza"" :rofl: explain please explain :bow: :) :D ;) :p :cool: :smw:

i'm in london, but i want most of this done by a pro so i know that it will be done well and i know i can go back them if stops working, etc. i tried to do the easiest bit (the indicators), but they've got different connectors and thought if i can't do this - i am certainly not gonna anything else. again, it's just not my thing - i'm a great believer in letting professionals do what they do *professionally*... not a blue peter kinda guy... diy? hah - can hardly hold a fork up without dropping it... :wack:

well maybe it's psychological, but i've been driving up 35-40 mph in the wet in hold mode (as i still only have 205s on the rear :wack: and in the wet i can feel it getting dodgy as the turbos come in to play :) ) and i think it's drinking less juice. could also be the fact that from a full tank the first quarter seems to go in about 15 miles! but then the needle goes down more slowly and on the last quarter i have do about 70 miles...

whether your a brother or whether you're a mother mine is going to be done by summer 2009 for sure... you can feel the city breakin' and everybody shaking, but if all goes well i might even finish it by this summer... well, you can tell that after all this has been done all i really want is a re-spray and an interior like steve300zx's and that's it - after that i just want to maintain... i want to keep it staying aliiiii-iiiii-iiiive :nana2: :dance: :nana2: :nana2: :dance: :nana2:

excellent! pm me - tbh i think you should put up an ad for her in the traders section or wherever the rules permit, because i'm sure there will be a lot of demand for that... every car i saw when i was looking for mine had scratches on the steering wheel!

cheers... i like a constructive conversation... *AND* i love it when a plan comes together ;)

that is exactly what it feels like now that you mention it! so guys anyone can confirm this?

gotcha, thanks. i only did it once to try and understand how it works - i hardly ever drive above 40 anyway :smw:

I really like and i'd get it, but 1.it's expensive :( and 2. what do i with the cruise buttons? i mean like the cruise control. i like the way it's layed out... if i got the wheel then how would it look - i mean where would the buttons be moved to? would they be comfortable to use? thanks for helpng me out so much with all these questions...

HAH! £700! you can prob get an NA for that sort of money! That's even worse than the original imo, which I quite like actually - it just pales in comparison to the momo evo a lot of the manual cars seem to have on here... and mines quite worn with scratches... actually wondering! is possible to get someone to put some leather or carbon around the standard wheel? has that been done before by anyone?

that's a lot of help - thanks, man! thank you!

when pulling but also at all other times, e.g. if i'm doing 50mph and floor it with hold button on the boostgauge indicator moves but there is nowhere near as much power - it really feels as though the turbos are just not working. actually that's not exactly true - it feels like the kinda acceleration i get when the boost gauge indicator gets to "0" or the middle of the dial and not a drop more. could it be that my cars hold button initiates safe mode? i've never felt safe mode before, but i read a few posts about it on the forums...

nice one - never seen that rear spolier before - actually one of the few i really like and SWB, too... got any more pics of that baby?

good point :wack: - badly deisigned poll... smart man

question: if hold does not affect power or fuel consumption then why is when i have hold on (in wet weather on my 205s... :D ), that even when the boost gauge moves to max boost there is much much less power delivery than in normal mode? thanks for th replies boys

pm me with the details pls

Questions, questions... 1. What exactly does the "hold" button do on the auto box? the boost gauge indicator still moves, but there is less power/tprque... 2. Is the petrol consumption lower when in "HOLD" mode? If yes then by how much approx? 3. Is there an aftermarket steering wheel that has the Cruise control buttons built in for a TT? 4. Are the turbos the same size and boost on the TT? i'm sure they are sequential, but is there a way to get them both running at the same time? would that even make any sense? thank you

also can anyone tell me if these from ebay.com will fit my 94 jdm? 90-96 NISSAN 300ZX Z32 SMOKE BUMPER SIDEMARKER LIGHTS the thing is they have lights in them and i dont know if my car has the space for them... anyone got these? anyone know where i can get these in clear or smoke without the lights? just reflectors sort of thing... thanks