(Z)Master

3rd - 4TH gear brake band is around £40 to buy at most(auto)gearbox repair centers.... The job is easy to do once the box is out...around a hours work removing old , fitting new band and setting up the new band!!! :cool: then you just need to flush the box and torque converter and youre done.... :D The online manual on AndyP's website explains every detail of the job involved... Most of the hard work which is very straight forward is removing and refitting the gearbox... It will be a complete waste of money to buy a second hand Unit when you have to drop the box anyway and just change a brake band and flush the box out....If you dont want to do it yourself take the box to a reconditioner and this will cost a few hundred pounds, but a lot more if they have to drop and refit the box as well ,The price will double!!! You will need to change the oil pump to torque converter seal as well (£8)as its recomended if you have dropped the box and you might as well do the rear main crank seal as well (£20) and the manual recomends you change the oil pump gasket but i just smear petroleum jelly on the gasket and there fine... Im sure Baggins has done of these as well....You may have slight scoring of the Brake Drum as well where the rivets from the brake band have made contact where the lining has worn down passed its limits but 9/10 times if you havent been driving it round too long in this condition you can reuse the brake drum (and these are expensive to replace) after giving a light rub down with some 400 wet and dry. Also if you choose to replace the brake band your self take it easy after rebuilding the box as the brake band will need to wear itself in to the drum.. If you dont take it easy for a few hundred miles you risk burning it out again which is where alot of people go wrong!! My advice is if you have a good weekend to spare do it yourself following the manual and have a friend or two handy to assist you with dropping the Box as its very Heavy!!! Good luck... :D Here's a good link for Parts and repair http://www.expressgearbox.co.uk/ :cool:

Yes i know i hate it when people pull up old posts too...its frustrating....:(

If the Cam belt was to have slipped you would have a continous problem not and intermittent one.....And the timing being at 40' would have burn't plugs out and could have caused alot more damage.....But i would say you have an electrical problem due to excess moisture.....

Or you have worn a ridge in the crank pulley ,causing it to leak still even with a new seal......???

Sounds like the sump gasket may be leaking ...... :(

I hope so too.... :) I also have shed out loads in the last few months,hopefully i will still be able to have a holiday abroad this year as i shed so much out last year i didnt leave myself enough time to save for one.. :( :)

I had 5 rotten through engine core plugs which nearly resulted in seizing my engine.... Started only after flushing and refiling cooling system which antifreeze after i serviced the Zed... Drove down to Exeter from Southampton and on the way back just after midnight engine started to overheat and would you belive it coolant was pi***ng out everywhere....AA came and said it was a core/freeze plug with a hole approx 1mm through and it was behind engine mount drivers side.... So next few days got underneath raised and supported engine, dropped mount and removed old one, replaced with new one which from nissan UK was around 78p plus vat...Refilled system drove down road and another water leak.....Same thing another core plug???? Yes 3 more!!! nearly had to remove engine....But managed to just drop the auto box do 2 behind flywheel and one behind aircon pump and while i had it in the air 1 more near pass turbo..... 3,000miles + no probs....Time involved 4 days -morning till dark and £38parts including rear main oil seal.... i Also have a minor Powersteering leak and engine oil leak both very minor but making a mess of my subframe....... :( :)

Sorry Mate Looks like your link has Expired.... :confused: :)

Mike you've lost your Battery.... :rofl: :rofl:

For a start you will have to remove the turbos and exhaust manifolds which you can only do if the engine is Out....make's life alot easier... :)

Thanks for the replies Guys but i am sure there are more than that. This thread cant help others including myself if no-body else replies to this post.... Theres must be more....surely?????

Graphite Blue Z32 with single exit super dragger exhaust parked near Regents Park Pub,Regents park road.....at 16:30 Today.... :)

Seen Coming off M27 J2 Heading onto Marchwood/Totton Bypass Around 15:45 on 17/02/2005.... :D

I want to get some idea of the most common place's Z32's can lose there engine Oil/Powersteering/Transmission/Coolant. Remember all cars have different places some the same but many still unique... So please post where your Zed leaked and what was involved in rectifying the leak ie: cost of parts,labour,your own time,Damage caused,Whether you brokedown. By posting your leaks would Also help others by giving Them some guidance into rectifying there leaks,and we've all had leaks of some kind either Big or small.... Cheers... :headvswal :)

Cambelt is the easy Part.... :duffer:

You are right Paul, as i have done a few myself,Not on zeds though... I learned this from a american chevy magazine while i was working on a V8 chevy small block. Apparently if you use compressed air the valve will refuse to be pushed down due to the amount of high pressure in the cylinder bore.... :)

Does anyone know the cross refrence code for carplan touchup/Spray paint for nissan (TK3) which is a pearl blue. :confused:

I was behind a white non turbo j-spec Zed on the m25 heading towards Kent...Around 1pm ish......5/02/2005....Until i floored mine and waved goodbye... :)

Is your car an import or UK spec.?

Telling us what codes you got may help?? Could be a number of things wrong without them.... :confused:

I did the Exact same....easiest way i found.....! :D

Try M.C.E They are very good and do limited mileage.they gave me the best quote and i tried almost everyone... :) http://www.insuremce.com

Anyone on this forum drive a Zed 32 thats Black with red wheels??? Saw you in southampton,Regents Park this Weekend.... :p

You can like John suggests ,bypass the det/knock sensor using a 1 ohm 5 watt resistor which you can purchase from you local electronics store for a few pence..but this is only normally recomended for testing/diagnosis only.. If the code 34 dissappears after bridging the two wires (with the resistor) that go to the det/knock sensor then you know for sure its either a faulty sensor/wire/connector. :)

I saw a Gunmetal 300zx traveling along the millbrook road bypass heading into southampton at around 10:05am Today Thurs 27th and wondered if if was anyone from this forum...? ;)