SRRAE

It used to be quite easy to find but all the places I have found are old links and dead sites? Is there anywhere which has it to view? I want to try and get my car sorted (after over 10 years off the road) and I forgotten most of it.

After about 10 years of my Z being a "project" I've decided I better get my finger out and start working on it again to make it roadworthy. I need to do the low cost/free things first. before I think about spending money on it. I will be needing to pick the brains of the people on here as I have forgotten so much about these cars.

Yeah just the stub, the spindle is still there and the CAS will go on it, but without the locating stub is hard to get it in the right location.

I am having trouble getting the CAS in the right place. When I took out the cas, the little location stub which is uses to make sure the CAS is in the correct position has snapped off. Its not the cog shape on the cam which has snaped just the little locating stub. This has made getting the CAS position very hard to get right. Are there any tips on how to get it in the correct location. I tried putting the engine in top dead centre and then turning the cas until cylinder 1 fires the engine has a strange firing order when starting up so is very hard to do. Any one got suggestions on how I could get this right? Stuart

My car is failing its MOT on emissions. Any advice on what to do to bring it down? What are the usual things? I have noticed that my idle is high, around 1200 rpm.

I had an RPS clutch but it snapped, yes snapped. I went for a southbend this time with a lightened RPS segmented flywheel.

I put the plugs back in today. I didn't hold much hope as this can has not been starting for several weeks, it has even been stood for 2-3 weeks without even trying to start it so how could it be wet plugs? The engine still had a whiff of petrol when I opened the bonnet but I carried on regardless putting in the plugs and screwing down each coil pack before re-fitting the balance bar. Put the fuel pump fuse back in and gave it a go. I was hopeing for at least some splutters and maybe even it starting after a few attempts. Turned the key the engine didn't even turn over once before it started. Its pouring out smoke at the moment but what do you expect when its not been started for probably close to 2 months now (Actually probably closer to 3) Thanks a lot guys. My Z is a step closer to being back on the road after 3 years. Stuart

I took out the spark plugs every one was very soiled and also very wet. When taking each of them out and taking the balance bar off to get to the rear plugs the whole engine was stinking of fuel. I have decided to keep the balance bar and plugs off overnight to let the fuel escape. I have cleaned each spark plug and I will put it back together tomorrow see if that makes a difference. Hi John, Ironically when it had 3 year old fuel in about 3-4 months ago it was running fine. I have since put in some super, which is probably 3 months old. Its lost it's superness but should still be OK. I will say how it goes after I try again tomorrow.

Cheers I will take out the spark plugs and turn off the fuel pump and give it a whirl. Compression should be OK. I did it about 3 months ago after a rebuild and the car has only been running for about 20-30 mins after that. Will let you know how it goes.

Hi guys, Daveb: I dont think the fuel filter is blocked as there seems to be fuel getting through, when taking a spark plug out and turning the car you can see the slight puff of fuel coming out, but at a cost of only a few quid it may be worth changing. Petes212st: It could be flooded, but this has been happening for about a week, it should have dried out with the day or 2 I have left the car between tries. But I will give your suggestion a go. Gary, there is an immobiliser fitted, at first I suspected that, but I cant see any other symptoms of it not working. I thought that immobilisers had a 3 point interception. Ignition, fuel pump and starter. The fuel pump primes, the starter turns and the dask electrics turn on. But I have a very limited knowledge of immobilisers. Munny, I have suspected the CAS too, but the fact it is sparking says to me that it is working. One more thing I have noticed. When you turn the key to turn the car on (but not start it) you usually get an electrical sound from the back of the car which is the fuel pump and then a few clicks of relays and some priming sounds from the engine bay too. The engine bay sounds have stopped happening. A strange question. If the ECU has blown, would I get a spark and fuel etc? Also I have a chipped ECU, could the eprom chip have been erased? Thanks for your suggestions.

HI guys, Wonder if you could help. My car will not start. The starter turns the engine over. There is a spark and the injectors are working as tested by spinning the CAS. We can actually see the spark when by pulling the plug out and we can see the injector spray a little inside the cylinder. ECU diag shows code 55 (all clear) Normal lights on the dashboard when turning the key. When trying to start the car the engine doesnt even attempt to start, eg. the engine keeps turning like it would if there is no fuel or spark plugs. Any one have any ideas what it could be? Stuart

I am really p1$$ed off now. It has turned out to be the water pump. It was leaking very slightly at the very top but very close to the thermostat housing, the water was then trickling along the housing and coming off around the side, making it look like it was coming from the thermostat housing. GRRRRR. Just spent 2 days on what should have been a 2 hour job. Oh well, you live an learn!

Done it finally. Advice on possible location of the water leak. The leak was coming just from behind the thermostat assembly area. The assembly looks fine to me. I think the water was coming from the water chamber which goes from the head to the lower intake to the other head. The book says to use a little liquid gasket on the corners of the metal gasket which joins the head and lower intake. I think we put a little too much because when the gasket was removed there was liquid gasket around the stud which the lower sits on, but there was about 1mm or more of on the surface of the head where the gasket sits. I think that the liquid gasket was lifting the metal gasket up a little so it didnt form a good seal.

http://twinturbo.net/ttnettech/plenum/plenum.aspx

Is that an engine out job? Im trying with the engine in but most of the stuff at the back of the engine is nearly impossible to reach.

drivers side has a oil hose going to the turbo. Is that off?

The leak is either on the unit of where the thermostat connects or on the join where the pipe which goes up the back meets the thermostat unit. The water was coming from the general thermostat area, but when we took the pipes off, you could see the water dribbling from behind it. Taking the intakes off is not a huge problem for me, just time consuming. Im worried that even with the intakes off I wont be able to reach it between the 2 heads.

OK then probably the 2nd worse place. The pipe that goes up the middle of the engine under the intake. :( Any tips on that, or is it plenum and intake off to reach it? Any tricks?

I have found the water leak, and it is in the worse possible place it could be, Can any one guess where it is?

I need a new job first, this one is not going well and pays poop. When I do the car will be taxed and insured again :D

I got a water leak now LOL

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!! I cleaned the connections on the CAS and the PTU. Even they looked OK. Turned the ignition on, VERY LOUD BANG from the exhaust, was a little worried, checked everything over one last time. Started it up first crank and ran it for about 2 secs. Its smells very hot, but thats probably because the exhaust are not on. more than 2 years and the end is very close!!!!!!!!

Still no spark. Checked all the earths, all are on and clean. The PTU seems to be working fine, I unplugged one side of it to test the error coding and it then did come up with an error 21. Maybe it is my E-Manage, not working correctly all of a sudden. I shall try removing it and see what happens.

Sorry forgot to mention the engine is turning over fine, sounds well and such, but just no spark. I took a coil out with the spark plug attached but nothing, didnt spark. its fueling OK. I have had a PTU with dirty connections, it caused a PTU error on the code. HOwever I did check it when I put it in, its was quite clean and I put coper grease on it to keep it clean. Dont htink it is engine immobiliser, I used the alarm button to open the car, and I have to press the button again to make the ignition work with the key in, unless the immobiliser is just cutting the spark but making everything else work. Any ways of testing the crank sensor? Does any one know if there is a fuse which controls the coils?

After more than 2 years my engine is back to gether with the car after a rebuild. However everything is connected up, but there is no spark. There is fuel getting to the engine but no spark. PTU and CAS are connected fine and ECU gives a code 55 (which is no errors I believe) ANy one have any ideas? Which fuse controls the coil packs? May be as simple as a blown fuse (I hope)