fyrkat

any ideas what i fill the air con liquid bottle mentioned above with?? Thanks all

thanks mark at least i know where to look now, and do I as suggested fill it wiith water??

which coolant bottle? the engine coolant? I am pretty sure all the levels are topped up as we changed rad and chacked it all after that, or is there another bottle for air con? Thanks

hi all, car is running nicely now and I am really enjoying it, I tried to get the aircon to work tho, I could only see one valve on the system near the dipstick hole, we charged the system thro that and system pumps, I can see liquid passing under the sight glass with no bubbles in it, but it has no effect on the temperature of the air blown into the car, any ideas anyone?? Thanks a lot Brian

hi all I am fitting a secondhand boost controller (blitz) to my car, it has no hoses with it apart from the small one to the sensor (head unit) what size internal diameter hose do i need to pipe up all the wastegates etc. to my controller? any ideas roughly how much i would need? thanks for the help Brian

ooops yeah mine is a DSBC, those damn sausage fingers again, lol I will be over, had a few problems recently, been in hospital and stuff, anyhow I finally taxed the car yesterday so I am mobile!! YAY!!

hi, has anyone got some form of guide for fitting one of these, its a Blitz SSDC R spec boost controller, I was hoping to use the write ups in the FAQ section which has fitting a greddy controller as a rough guide but the links / pics dont seem to work anymore, my car is a 1993 UK TT Auto Any help greatly appreciated Thanks

I just fitted some infinity referance 6.5" components in the front of my car, altho they were slightly big and i had to remove the bracket from the door and do some slight mods, not a massive job tho, and sound soooooo much better than the stock speakers, I would have thought 6" would be a more or less direct fit, nissan use 3 hole mounting tho, and its usually 4 so you might have to re drill holes. as for the rears mine already had some JBL 4x6's fitted in a proper adaptor bracket, not sure what the originals would have been

What kind of cost Andy, I am pretty good with a soldering iron (provided its not all that SMD voodoo stuff). Thanks

Andy, will chipping make much difference to my car? its fairly standard, still got cats, scorpion exhaust, some homemade twin induction filter thingy. no way of controlling boost!! (po had boost controller been tryin to pick a reasonable one up but they are way expensive) so i might have to re-tube it to stock. Just wondered if its worth it? Thanks Brian

hi all, further to me getting datascan working the guys at blazt have asked me if my car has a standard ECU the honest answer is I have no idea!! asked me son to read me the part number off the ECU and he says its :- UJ A18-A98MD7 3302 anyone know is this is the correct ecu so i can email the guys at blazt. thanks in anticipation Brian

yep thats what I thought Darrell, will look for willing guinea pigs, lol Brian

tried them no joy tho, wouldent install it said no compatible hardware detected, thinkit must be a cygnet type!!!

Legrath, when the pc's detect it it says Cygnal USB Composite Device and for the port it says CP2101 USB to UART Bridge Controller (COM 7) so should i be using the ftdi driver? could this maybe be the problem, I downloaded the Cygnal drivers from the Blazt website, would these be the latest ones? Thanks for help so far Brian

Legrath, when the pc's detect it it says Cygnal USB Composite Device and for the port it says CP2101 USB to UART Bridge Controller (COM 7) so should i be using the f

yep it sets up as com 7 I have set the sw to that with no joy, and I hve tried to manually install the drivers again, no joy, comp is happy that it there and working, software doesnt object to the port setting just nothing from the car!!

Help please if anyone can, I have a USB datascan cable, the drivers load ok and the PC sees it as a com port but I cannot get it to talk to the ECU no matter what I do, the consult port seems to be loose on its wires just above the bonet release on the drivers side. is it possible my consult port is Fricked is there any tests I can do to test it? anyone else got the USB cable working after having similar problems Brian

has it still got the boost controller, I am after one if your scapping one

hmmm, sorting out the ICE in my car and I have looked at the back speakers which have been replaced with nice jbl ones, but under the O/S rear speaker there is a strange round box on a bracket bolted to the body! all it says on it is Clarion, anyone know what this is please? Thanks

yeah prop shaft is easy 4 x bolts on the aft end and a sliding spline on the gearbox end the centre bearing is held on with a braket, again very easy to take off, i believe you can leave box in but i would think it would be a bugger to get to the bell housing bolts, probably possable none the less Brian

couldent be sure exactly how many its fairly obvious tho, to get to the top ones I undid the gearbox mounting and let the box and engine tilt towards the back a bit, then with a huge extension bar you can get on the reasonably. before that you will need to undo the tourqe converter, now this is not obvious, take of the starter motor, then there are 2 brackets which hold the bottom of the tranny onto the engine (called the gusset or girdle I believe in the manual) the bottom plate will then come off the box and give you access to the touque converter, there are 4 short bolts which hold this on, you will have to turn the engine (27mm socket on front pully) to get to them all but once you have all 4 out you are ready to split the engine and box Brian

Just gone all thru this myself, and still havent got it back together properly, as i managed to boil it, maybe I will have to do the heads as well now, lol, what we did was take the exhausts off, then the propshaft, split the autobox and engine, dropped the autobox, then took the engine out of the top of the car, I left the aircon compressor (there was no gas in it anyhow) on the engine and the altenator, took off the power steering pump tho. obviously the rad and fan need to come off too but it was not too hard to do then. took us most of a weekend to do but I recon half that time was working out how to do it, doing it was not too bad. when I had mine out I replaced turbos (that was what had blown on mine), cambelt, and all pully belts, all the little water hoses at the back of the engine, PCV valves and pipes and the heter matrix hoses, you dont wanna have to pull the engine to do any of these. I am far far from an expert (evidence is that my car is back on the ramps in bits) but any help i can be give me a shout Cheers Brian

as far as i know (cos i am fairly new to this) they are the safety boost solenoid connectors, commonly disconnected when a boost controller is added Cheers!!

Right due to mrs and sons demanding my attention i wont be able to look at it till mon at earliest, I will do a search and find out what belt i need and get it, rad off to be looked at, just a thought if the water pump pully can be bolted on the wrong way round, which is the correct way? concave bit in or out? thanks a million again Brian

Now after reading this thread i am confused, mine is a 1993 UK TT and my rad gave up the ghost yesterday, it has plastic caps at the sides and cap in same place as TT rad but there is no oil cooler pipes to rad, I believe it may have had a uprated oil cooler for auto box as i have a reciept from the PO suggesting that, would this be right or have i got some oil cooling missing? if i get a TT rad will i have 2 holes on rad i cant use? Thanks